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Cayman S exhaust flange bolts size


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Hello 

I had my 2009 S PDK inspected by the local dealer today and whilst on the ramp they showed me the three bolts that hold the two parts of the exhaust were rusty , they want over £500 to change these (exhaust flange triangle bolts and gaskets corroded is what it says in the report )  Can anyone tell me what size the bolts are and where I could get them in stainless steel , and where to get the flanges  please 
cheers 

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I can confirm through personal experience that this is a pig of a job at home with the car on axle stands and without an oxy acetylene torch!  So when our other Cayman needed a clutch recently, I got my local OPC to do it this time. 

 

Our TIPEC region has a very good deal with our OPC so the labour cost was £460 to change the clutch and deal with the corroded exhaust studs in the process.  They even let us supply the clutch kit and exhaust clamps and stainless bolts.  

 

So £500 is way over the top.  

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The bolts I used on both our gen 1 Caymans were bought from ebay:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M5-M6-M8-M10-FLANGED-HEXAGON-HEAD-BOLTS-FLANGE-HEX-SCREWS-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-/150935671186?var=450136610314&hash=item2324779192:m:m6bwIyL6Ib2ZpOsvLDOrG5g

 

I used the M8 x 30mm ones, along with stainless nuts with integral washers:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLANGED-NUTS-TO-FIT-METRIC-BOLTS-SCREWS-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-M4-5-6-8-10-12-/150792649468?var=450073161428&hash=item231bf13afc:m:m29sMLzdGJ6duAp1w6ztYdQ

 

You also need to replace the gasket between the two flanges but not the flanges themselves as these are an integral part of manifolds and exhaust system.  

 

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3 hours ago, Woodhouse said:

 

 

You also need to replace the gasket between the two flanges but not the flanges themselves as these are an integral part of manifolds and exhaust system.  

Thank you for your replies and the links , yes , my mistake I meant the gaskets , where would you recommend I get these ??, I'm Over 50 miles from the dealer  so  online place if possible please ?

thanks again 

 

 

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On 08/10/2017 at 08:42, Woodhouse said:

I can confirm through personal experience that this is a pig of a job at home with the car on axle stands and without an oxy acetylene torch!  So when our other Cayman needed a clutch recently, I got my local OPC to do it this time. 

 

Our TIPEC region has a very good deal with our OPC so the labour cost was £460 to change the clutch and deal with the corroded exhaust studs in the process.  They even let us supply the clutch kit and exhaust clamps and stainless bolts.  

 

So £500 is way over the top.  

 

I paid £440 at a well known Porsche Indy to have my exhausts changed.  Car was just 2.5 years old and kept in the garage.  It took them hours!! 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

would it not be cheaper and beneficial to run over to Carnewal in Belgium and get Gert to put one of his modified exhausts on including new bolts and gaskets which is likely to cost less than your local OPC just changing the bolts and you end up with a sporty exhaust .

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  • 3 weeks later...

I had the gaskets go on my 07 S and the bolts were rusted in to the manifold. I took it to a local race engine specialist who had it for a couple of days. It is right it is a pig of a job to have done, but they did it for £270 for one side. 

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

ok gents , so after the cayman had her service the other wek with a independant specialist who also flagged up the bolts and wit the fact I had purchased a stainless steel fabspeed cat back system I bit the bullet  and set to work on the bolts , firstly I used a "dremel " like tool (mine is from Aldi ) to grind away the studs down to the flange metal , this took me around 4-6 hours and was a bar steward  of a job , once they were gone I removed the system , and then using a air grinder  ground down the remains of the stud to the flange of the cat , I then found out I had been miss informed by both the OPC (who said they were straight through bolts ) and the specialist who said (they were pressed in bolts ) they are in fact spot welded studs , I gave them  quick plast with the  air chisel  which broke them loose (see pics of remains of stud heads ), after that it was fit the fabspeed system (my wife is still unsure of the sound so I may be going back to standard  if so will post on here for sale )  
if anyone has  any questions I will do my best to answer 
thanks again for the advice  those above gave 

27628921_1922370037791884_1189905348331591302_o.jpg

27709549_1922370041125217_7903613437498628794_o.jpg

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Glad to see it worked out.  When you say you used an air chisel, was that in between the heads of the studs and the back face of the flange to break the welds or just straight onto the studs to punch the remains out through the flange??

 

Its been a few years since I did mine but I remember that getting access with tools was very difficult on some of the studs and I disconnected the lower control arms to swing the suspension struts outboard in order to get a drill straight onto the studs.

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Hi Woodhouse 
There was enough room to get the air chisel in once the main exhaust was removed , As I said I used a air grinder to get the remains flush with the cat section  flange I had to hold the end of the point on the bolt to stop it slipping  but it was not a problem . i did forget to say that I put a rag in the exhaust to stop any metal going i to the cat whilst I ground down the studs , 
I did originally intend to use a air reciprocating saw with a thin blade to cut through the bolts in between the  flanges , but the gap is so tight it was a no go , there is a video here of how one chap did it (on a boxster, but it's similar )

regards
Bryan 
 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Sorry for the late reply to your question , only just seen it , Mine is a gen 2 S , I got it used from a well known auction site , quite reasonable considering a new one was £1500.00.
I am very impressed by the quality  

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  • 1 year later...

I had to do this last week , again with an Aldi Dremmel tool with a 30mm cutting disc. Took ages and a real PITA. 

I've sent the exhaust off to Carnewal in Belgium today, £30 with DPD.  UPS was £130! 

So I cut a side from each nut (1/3rd) with the disc which allowed me to tap the other 2/3rds off with a blunt chisel. I then heated up the flange surrounding the stud very hot and then punched the studs out, maybe 6 big bashes did the job. 

So to clear up what these studs are exactly.

In the photo above the 3 weld tabs are on the collar which should stay in the car. The suds are pressed into these collars. the tops of these studs are so rusty they can hardly be distinguished from the collar. 

I had 1 collar break off with the stud , doesn't matter either way whether they break off or not , you're going to refit with a SS nut and bolt.

For the life of me I can't remember what you call the flutes/ribs /grooves at the top of the stud

image.png.daf0e9becbbc4943741f0a9725c8d658.png

Edited by Stephen Auty
forgot something
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