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Cycle ABS pump


Aaron

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Hi guys

 

Does anyone know how to manually activate the ABS pump?  I've tried to find a writing diagram but I'm coming up short.  There must be a combination of shorts that will activate the bleeding of each line but I don't even know which relay to start at.

 

I'm fitting a GT3 master cylinder very soon and don't fancy double bleeding the brakes.  I know Durametric is an option but it's a bit overpriced for the process of bleeding brakes.

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Unfortunately there are no short cuts to doing a full brake bleed if you change the MC. I had a so called specialist do mine and even they had to have several goes at bleeding the system manually after multiple cycling of the ABS, the one thing they did not do which I am told they should have is 'bench bleed' the MC prior to fitting which might have saved a huge amount of time. 

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ive changed my master cylinder and had no issues although it did take some time.

i found the secret is to press the brake pedal aswell as have the fluid under pressure from a 1 man bleeder.

 

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3 hours ago, crafty1 said:

Unfortunately there are no short cuts to doing a full brake bleed if you change the MC. I had a so called specialist do mine and even they had to have several goes at bleeding the system manually after multiple cycling of the ABS, the one thing they did not do which I am told they should have is 'bench bleed' the MC prior to fitting which might have saved a huge amount of time. 

 

This specialist of yours doesn't sound very competent!

 

The TRW warranty paper states not to operate the plunger without installing the master so bench bleeding is impossible...

 

I'm just looking to replicate what PIWIS/Durametric would do but manually bridging the relay with a wire.  I just don't know where that relay for PSM/ABS is.

 

I was planning on a vacuum and traditional bleed, drive the car, activate the ABS manually several times (if I can't find a way to cycle the pump), and then bleed it again.  I'm not a big fan of pressure bleeders; I use a one-way valved hose with a vacuum pump downstream.  

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Spot on with your assessment of said specialist....

 

The problem is without the bench bleed the air just gets sucked into the system I think. I am no expert but you'll find many people have had fun and games getting all the air out but it's worth it for the end result. 

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Bench bleeding requires operation of the plunger; this is my reservation against it.  I don't want to void the warranty, break it and end up out of pocket.  The manual doesn't say to bench bleed so I'll go for it without.

 

I'm yet to get confirmation of the ramp, so this may not be going ahead this weekend as intended.

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Sorry yes what I mean't is fair enough to no bench bleed but upshot is a lot of air in the system which means a lot of manual work getting it out, as many before you will testify...

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Undoubtedly.  The pedal feels more like a sports car should and less like a shopping trolley for the Sunday shopping!

 

If anyone has any doubts, I highly recommend doing it.  No idea why they didn't have it fitted from the factory...  None whatsoever. 

 

Also, I didn't bench bleed the master.  It didn't take that long to bleed but I did almost go through two litres of fluid in my quest to get all of the air out.

Edited by Aaron
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