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Woodhouse

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Everything posted by Woodhouse

  1. I lived in Sweden in the early 2000's and winter tyres are compulsory there. I only came to appreciate what a massive difference they make when at the end of our 3rd winter, having just put my near new premium summer tyres back on my Porsche 968, we had a late snowfall. My car which had been a drama free daily driver for 3 winters was suddenly virtually undriveable.
  2. I'm up for this Nick. Been the last three years running and it's been a great event.
  3. Hi Eon, In addition to the good advice above, a couple of other things to check or be budgeting for include: - Brake discs - they can look fine on the outside but often wrecked on the inside faces. IMG_0761 edited by DRH986 - Air con condensers - they are pretty exposed and also suffer from leaves and other muck getting sandwiched between them and the coolant rads. I'd be amazed if they're original and still intact. http://IMG_9784 by DRH986 - Coolant pipes, especially the ones at the front of the car - the Henn quick fit couplings corrode where they connect to the aluminium pipes that run underneath the steering rack. You can't really see much externally (other than signs of leakage) but this is what they look like if you can get them apart. http://IMG_20170422_192916120 by DRH986 However, don't let most of this put you off, especially if you are handy with the spanners as most of these issues are fairly easy to DIY. The potential for bore scoring is the one to worry about. The best advice I can offer on that is to get it borescoped before purchase (though that may not be conclusive) or buy one from an OPC or a dealer that offers a cast iron warranty against bore scoring (many warranties probably won't cover this). Otherwise, buy privately from a long term owner who can give you a good idea about oil consumption and the trend (and who you are prepared to trust !).
  4. Get a Cayman R! (Finally!) Happy New Year!
  5. I recently bought a Mercedes C Class C250D estate. I'd shortlisted the choices down to the BMW 330/335D, Audi A4 3.0 D and the C Class. I opted for the Mercedes in the end due to the looks, spec (I have the AMG Line Premium Plus with a few extras, in Brilliant Blue which I preferred over the BMW and Audi blues) and interior. Oh, and SWMBO preferred it! The driving dynamics aren't as good as the BMW but I'm very happy with it so far. And while not slow, it is significantly slower accelerating than my Gen 1 Cayman S, whereas the bigger engined BMW and Audi were as quick, if not quicker, than the Cayman and I felt that might have taken the shine off owning the Porsche!
  6. The Paragon car is more than I paid six years ago for my higher specced lower mileage car!
  7. Hi Dean, I had to deal with the corroded exhaust studs a few years ago when I replaced the clutch and flywheel in my 06 Cayman S and I can confirm it is indeed a pig of a job. The silly thing is, a couple of weeks later I went to Belgium to have Gert Carnewal fit one of his GT exhausts. How I wish I'd done this first, as the clutch job would have been a doddle! The Carnewal exhaust is highly regarded. It's a modified genuine Porsche exhaust which Gert supplies on an exchange basis. Back in early 2014, it cost €495 fitted, which was a little over £400 at the time. For the same price, he could supply by mail order on an exchange basis. Approaching four years on, my only negative comment is that there are times when I wish it was switchable on/off like the factory PSE option. We have another Cayman S with the standard exhaust in the family and its nice to drive that sometimes. It's not just the extra noise but the modified exhaust does introduce a slight harshness into the whole drivetrain whereas the standard car feels turbine smooth in comparison. This has only been an issue on long road trips such as our trip to the Spa Classic this year but on the other hand our Porsche driving travelling companions thouht it sounded great when they were following! For the cost, the Carnewal is fantastic value, especially when you visit Gert to have it installed. Having your local Porsche centre just replace the corroded studs would probably cost more than Gert's GT system.
  8. I was talking to a guy at our local TIPEC meet a couple of months ago and he was about to have his third steering rack on his gen 2 Cayman, owned from new and currently on 39k miles. He was a bit miffed as you'd imagine.
  9. My approach for what it's worth includes: - Always (without fail!) warm it up properly - keep the revs under load between 2-3k RPM and use light throttle application, until about twice as long as it takes for the temp gauge to hit 80; - Never labour the engine (i.e. large throttle application below about 2k RPM) even when warm - Take extra care when setting off with a hot engine (e.g. sat at lights after a spirited drive) - avoid large throttle application until coolant flow and any local hot spotting in the block has improved; - Regular oil changes (I'm doing 6k/annual changes) I haven't gone for a low temp thermostat or centre radiator.
  10. I had a 986 Boxster years ago that was losing coolant from one of the rads soon after I bought it but it was slow enough that there were no drips under the car. Once I got the bumper off and separated the a/c condenser from the coolant rad, sure enough there was a tell tale sign of leakage on the rad itself. The problem seems to be caused by leaves and other muck getting sandwiched between the a/c condenser and coolant rad, accelerating the corrosion process. Unfortunately, removing the bumper to get access to clean out the muck isn't part of the service schedule so it won't be done unless you ask for it or do it yourself. One of our Caymans has Zunsport grilles but these don't seem to have made much difference to the accumulated muck between services.
  11. Porsche charged me around £53 to replace my out of date sealant earlier this year when they picked it up on their free health check. I wouldn't normally buy that sort of thing from them but they have done me a couple of favours recently so it was a case of grin and bear it!
  12. Your nearest OPC should be able to post them, or else I suggest Design911 for the gaskets.
  13. Good man Beanoir! About time we had another OC meet and RPM Technik sounds like a great opportunity.
  14. The bolts I used on both our gen 1 Caymans were bought from ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M5-M6-M8-M10-FLANGED-HEXAGON-HEAD-BOLTS-FLANGE-HEX-SCREWS-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-/150935671186?var=450136610314&hash=item2324779192:m:m6bwIyL6Ib2ZpOsvLDOrG5g I used the M8 x 30mm ones, along with stainless nuts with integral washers: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLANGED-NUTS-TO-FIT-METRIC-BOLTS-SCREWS-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-M4-5-6-8-10-12-/150792649468?var=450073161428&hash=item231bf13afc:m:m29sMLzdGJ6duAp1w6ztYdQ You also need to replace the gasket between the two flanges but not the flanges themselves as these are an integral part of manifolds and exhaust system.
  15. I can confirm through personal experience that this is a pig of a job at home with the car on axle stands and without an oxy acetylene torch! So when our other Cayman needed a clutch recently, I got my local OPC to do it this time. Our TIPEC region has a very good deal with our OPC so the labour cost was £460 to change the clutch and deal with the corroded exhaust studs in the process. They even let us supply the clutch kit and exhaust clamps and stainless bolts. So £500 is way over the top.
  16. The cost differential between a gen 1 and 2 Cayman S is similar to the cost of a decent engine rebuild. Then take into account there are a lot less gen 2 cars than gen 1, which makes it harder to find a gen 2 car that ticks all the boxes, especially if you are (like me) fussy about colour and want a well optioned car. On top of that, a well maintained gen 1 with average miles (70k?) will have had a significant amount of expenditure on issues that the average gen 2 will probably be needing soon (suspension/clutch/flywheel/coolant pipes/etc etc). So factor all that in and I would definitely not rule out a gen 1, providing you take care (borescope check or better still try to establish the oil consumption and trend with confidence before you buy). Having found a good car, look after it properly in terms of maintenance and how you drive it, and you will have a good chance of coming out significantly ahead in terms of outlay. Even if you are unlucky and do need an engine rebuild, you'll have cash in the bank compared to the gen 2 option to pay for it, especially when you consider the potential additional costs the average gen 2 is likely to need in the next few years.
  17. Chaps, the Meyle online catalogue suggests the items being sold by ebay member tierod69 may not be correct for the 987.2. He is listing a pair for £118.99, Meyle part number 416 050 0000. The Meyle catalogue shows a change from 416 050 0000 to part number 416 050 0009 fairly early in the 987.1 (Gen 1) production run, from chassis number 986U774552 (my early 2006 built car is about 600 units before this). I'm not certain but think the difference may be a change to a harder bushing material.
  18. I've had a Carnewaĺ exhaust on my 2006 Cayman since early 2014. The secondary cats are removed and I've been through 3 MoTs since, without any problem.
  19. Huge thanks for posting this! Just got back tonight after taking in a fair chunk of your route. We started and finished near Bristol and after crossing to Wales on the old Severn Bridge, we picked up your route at Upper Brynamman to head north over the Black Mountain Pass. We spent the night near Caernarfon. I have to agree with you about the B4391. Unfortunately we only had the chance to do it once, from Bala to Ffestiniog, but it really is epic, easily the best road of the whole weekend. A weekend in the school holidays is not the best time to do this and traffic did spoil a number of sections including the Black Mountain Pass and Llanberris Pass. We picked up an unmarked police car tail at the start of the Evo Triangle and a cycle race around the Triangle also didn't help but we could see the potential. Even without traffic and other hazards, I'm still not sure any of them would have been better than the B4391. Another stretch I'd recommend is the B4391 from Bala heading south east to Llanfyllin then continue on the A490 to Welshpool. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to write this up and post the maps, very helpful and gave us lots of inspiration.
  20. Having owned a number of Porsches with this type of headlight securing mechanism, all of them have required a fair amount of torque to release. We currently have two Gen 1 Caymans and every time I remove a headlight, it feels like something is going to break!
  21. One way to check whether it is the coil pack is to swap the cylinder 4 coil pack with one of the other coil packs. Also carefully inspect the coil packs for cracks. Then clear the fault code and see if it returns. If it comes back as a slightly different code (e.g. 2309) that would indicate that it is the coil pack as it seems there is a different fault code for each cylinder.
  22. My guess based on googling the generic OBD2 code P2310 is this is a problem with the coil pack on cylinder 4. I replaced mine at 58K miles as they were cracking and therefore prone to water ingress. This is a common problem on cars in the UK.
  23. Thanks guys. Beanoir, PM sent.
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