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Everything posted by Woodhouse

  1. Cayman S exhaust flange bolts size

    The bolts I used on both our gen 1 Caymans were bought from ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M5-M6-M8-M10-FLANGED-HEXAGON-HEAD-BOLTS-FLANGE-HEX-SCREWS-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-/150935671186?var=450136610314&hash=item2324779192:m:m6bwIyL6Ib2ZpOsvLDOrG5g I used the M8 x 30mm ones, along with stainless nuts with integral washers: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLANGED-NUTS-TO-FIT-METRIC-BOLTS-SCREWS-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-M4-5-6-8-10-12-/150792649468?var=450073161428&hash=item231bf13afc:m:m29sMLzdGJ6duAp1w6ztYdQ You also need to replace the gasket between the two flanges but not the flanges themselves as these are an integral part of manifolds and exhaust system.
  2. Cayman S exhaust flange bolts size

    I can confirm through personal experience that this is a pig of a job at home with the car on axle stands and without an oxy acetylene torch! So when our other Cayman needed a clutch recently, I got my local OPC to do it this time. Our TIPEC region has a very good deal with our OPC so the labour cost was £460 to change the clutch and deal with the corroded exhaust studs in the process. They even let us supply the clutch kit and exhaust clamps and stainless bolts. So £500 is way over the top.
  3. Cayman S 3.4 engine reliability

    The cost differential between a gen 1 and 2 Cayman S is similar to the cost of a decent engine rebuild. Then take into account there are a lot less gen 2 cars than gen 1, which makes it harder to find a gen 2 car that ticks all the boxes, especially if you are (like me) fussy about colour and want a well optioned car. On top of that, a well maintained gen 1 with average miles (70k?) will have had a significant amount of expenditure on issues that the average gen 2 will probably be needing soon (suspension/clutch/flywheel/coolant pipes/etc etc). So factor all that in and I would definitely not rule out a gen 1, providing you take care (borescope check or better still try to establish the oil consumption and trend with confidence before you buy). Having found a good car, look after it properly in terms of maintenance and how you drive it, and you will have a good chance of coming out significantly ahead in terms of outlay. Even if you are unlucky and do need an engine rebuild, you'll have cash in the bank compared to the gen 2 option to pay for it, especially when you consider the potential additional costs the average gen 2 is likely to need in the next few years.
  4. 987.2 Lower rear 'coffin' arms

    Chaps, the Meyle online catalogue suggests the items being sold by ebay member tierod69 may not be correct for the 987.2. He is listing a pair for £118.99, Meyle part number 416 050 0000. The Meyle catalogue shows a change from 416 050 0000 to part number 416 050 0009 fairly early in the 987.1 (Gen 1) production run, from chassis number 986U774552 (my early 2006 built car is about 600 units before this). I'm not certain but think the difference may be a change to a harder bushing material.
  5. PSE - Modification

    I've had a Carnewaĺ exhaust on my 2006 Cayman since early 2014. The secondary cats are removed and I've been through 3 MoTs since, without any problem.
  6. Tyres For Sale

    PM sent
  7. Huge thanks for posting this! Just got back tonight after taking in a fair chunk of your route. We started and finished near Bristol and after crossing to Wales on the old Severn Bridge, we picked up your route at Upper Brynamman to head north over the Black Mountain Pass. We spent the night near Caernarfon. I have to agree with you about the B4391. Unfortunately we only had the chance to do it once, from Bala to Ffestiniog, but it really is epic, easily the best road of the whole weekend. A weekend in the school holidays is not the best time to do this and traffic did spoil a number of sections including the Black Mountain Pass and Llanberris Pass. We picked up an unmarked police car tail at the start of the Evo Triangle and a cycle race around the Triangle also didn't help but we could see the potential. Even without traffic and other hazards, I'm still not sure any of them would have been better than the B4391. Another stretch I'd recommend is the B4391 from Bala heading south east to Llanfyllin then continue on the A490 to Welshpool. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to write this up and post the maps, very helpful and gave us lots of inspiration.
  8. Headlight removal

    Having owned a number of Porsches with this type of headlight securing mechanism, all of them have required a fair amount of torque to release. We currently have two Gen 1 Caymans and every time I remove a headlight, it feels like something is going to break!
  9. One way to check whether it is the coil pack is to swap the cylinder 4 coil pack with one of the other coil packs. Also carefully inspect the coil packs for cracks. Then clear the fault code and see if it returns. If it comes back as a slightly different code (e.g. 2309) that would indicate that it is the coil pack as it seems there is a different fault code for each cylinder.
  10. My guess based on googling the generic OBD2 code P2310 is this is a problem with the coil pack on cylinder 4. I replaced mine at 58K miles as they were cracking and therefore prone to water ingress. This is a common problem on cars in the UK.
  11. Cayman R Owners

    Thanks guys. Beanoir, PM sent.
  12. Cayman R Owners

    Chaps, what do you think of this Cayman R: http://www.cameronsportscars.com/used-vehicle-details/Porsche-Cayman-U523/ Had a quick look at it yesterday. It's a well specced manual - if anything, possibly too well specced for me with those PCCBs (I'd be paranoid about damaging them at £2K per corner apparently). It does have bi-xenons which are very high on my list, plus PCE, Sport Chrono, PCM, Bose, Climate and a few other options, though not Leather dash. Any views? Is it priced right at £45k with that spec and mileage (31K)?
  13. Hunting for my first Porsche

    Mine is a Gen 1 manual but I really like the Sport Chrono for the more responsive throttle. We have two Gen 1 S cars, the other one doesn't have SC so I am able to do back to back comparisons. You can get this retrofitted (without the clock but I've never used that) or there are aftermarket versions. Another option I really rate is zenon headlights, especially as I get older! That said, the aftermarket conversions seem to be quite good these days from what I've read.
  14. Rough feel / not smooth off gas

    It might be the dual mass flywheel failing. I had a Boxster a few years ago which had a roughness/vibration just below 3000 RPM on the overrun. I changed the front engine mount which made little difference. The new owner later told me it turned out to be the flywheel though the car had much higher mileage than yours.
  15. First world problem

    A moot point now but when we moved back to the UK from Sweden, the wife and I and two cats did much of that route over 2 days in my old 968 without any problems. A few years before, me and our three kids moved out there in my 944 but we did cheat a bit by taking the Newcastle to Gothenbutg ferry!
  16. Well that was the biggest gathering of scooters I've ever seen and that was probably the best bacon roll I've ever had! Great to talk to a few of you. Beanoir, I have to say you've got your priorities all wrong - who needs a house when you've got a Cayman R! And beeby11, sorry I was the last one left when you arrived but I'm sure you'd have got the same enthusiastic pitch from the rest of the guys and gals. Just get one bought!
  17. Ok Folks, can anyone recommend alignment settings for my Gen 1 S with PASM on 18" wheels? I probably won't be doing track days but I want less understeer than standard settings. I don't drive the car to its limits but I do like to have fun when I get the chance. It was set to around -0°20' camber and +0.2mm toe front, -1°36' camber and +1.0mm toe rear last time I had it done - these are nominally the factory standard settings. I recon the rear might be ok but I'm wondering about say 0°45' camber and zero toe front? I will be doing some long distance motorway trips so don't want to lose too much in straight line stability.
  18. Alignment recommendations?

    Thanks Beanoir. That's the sort of improvements I'm looking for. I've been into my local OPC this morning to order the replacement parts and I've booked the car in for them to do an alignment to my required settings on Wednesday. The consensus is to max out the front camber (around -1 to -1.2 if I'm lucky), zero toe and stick with standard rear settings. I'm sure it'll make a nice difference. Our other Cayman has around -0.6 to 0.7 front camber and it's noticeably less understeery than mine.
  19. Alignment recommendations?

    Thanks briggy. I did contact Chris a couple of months ago and I'm sure he'd do a great job but I know what I want and I know that a competent alignment specialist will set the car up to my settings at a much lower cost.
  20. Alignment recommendations?

    Yes, I need to have a difficult conversation with them tomorrow. It really is a big shame as they are nice guys and I'm sure they'll be as upset as I am. But this doesn't take away from the fact that this is incompetence. They really should have realised that you don't need a 2 foot long breaker bar to move these adjusters. When I got home, I was able to easily remove the eccentric bolts. They aren't seized and once the nuts were loose it all came apart without any problems.
  21. Alignment recommendations?

    Well it hasn't gone well so far............... I took the car to a local place I've used before for a Boxster alignment. A tyre specialist with a Hunter alignment machine. Unfortunately, they have damaged the eccentric adjusters on the rear, to the point where the rear toe couldn't be adjusted and they had to give up. I had to drive home with the rear end miles out of alignment, to the point where PSM kept kicking in until I got a PSM Failure warning. I've had a good look at it after I got it home and it looks like they haven't loosened the securing nuts sufficiently on the eccentric adjuster bolts before heaving on the bolts to adjust camber and toe with a large breaker bar. This has sheared off the end of one of the aluminium clips that locate the eccentric adjusters and distorted the rest to the point where you can't make any adjustments. I've ordered the new aluminium clips from my OPC, who say they've never ever had to supply these before, either to their own workshop or customers. As you might imagine, I'm more than miffed. I will get my OPC to do the alignment properly. I really don't want to go back to these guys, which is a real shame as they are a friendly lot who we've often used for tyres and the occasional alignment.
  22. First post and looking for a 987.1 S

    Luke, as per my earlier post in this thread, your experience is pretty typical if you want to keep your car in good shape. I changed my clutch and flywheel at 58K miles. There was plenty of life left in the clutch but it was getting heavy and the pedal action was slightly juddery. The flywheel had lots of life left but for £300 or so I felt it was worth doing while I had it apart. Many people probably wouldn't have bothered with either until the clutch started slipping or it got unbearably heavy. Ditto with suspension parts which are past their best at that mileage. My first Boxster was a 115K mile 6 year old lowly basic spec 2.7 but it was in fantastic condition due to the original owner who I bought it from having spent around £14K in OPC servicing and maintenance (excluding tyres), replacing anything that started to show wear.
  23. First post and looking for a 987.1 S

    Welcome! My son is 6'4" and he fits fine. Regarding common problems, I posted my experiences in this thread recently: An independent inspection is a good idea unless you are very familiar with these cars as the newest Gen 1s are now 8 years old. Dove House Cars has a good reputation as an independent specialist but I don't know if they do inspections.
  24. Try carparts4less (sister company to Euro Car Parts but usually cheaper) and don't rule out your local OPC as they can sometimes be the cheapest.
  25. HELP on purchasing a Cayman S :)

    Regarding common issues to look out for, Gen 1 "S" cylinder bore scoring is the big one - this is the one stand-out potential problem that would make me wary of buying a Gen 1 S in particular (the Gen 1 2.7 and both variants of Gen 2 appear not to suffer). The problem is it is very difficult to detect in the early stages. I had mine borescoped before I bought it 5 years ago and was still somewhat paranoid until I'd established what the oil consumption was. That was 30k miles ago (now on 73k) and mine uses about 1 segment of oil on the dash display (approx. 0.4l) per 10k miles, which is about as good as it gets. This is an area where it may actually be better to buy privately than from most dealers since there are very few dealer warranties that cover bore scoring. Aside from a borescope inspection, I would want to know the oil consumption over a decent number of miles. You won't get this from any dealer but you may get a good feel from a private seller who has had the car for some time (if you trust them!). I'd be vary wary of someone selling a Gen 1 S after only a short period, for this reason. Worst case scenario is a bill for £10-12K for the full-works engine rebuild (half that for a quick sticking plaster fix). As for how common this is, there are no definitive statistics. And I don't think it's digital, in that I suspect in many cases it's a gradually accumulating problem. My guess is that 5-10% of the Gen 1 S cars for sale are at a worrying stage. But I have absolutely no objective basis for that figure, just countless hours spent on Porsche forums over the last 20 years! My 2006 car has had the following maintenance over and above normal servicing since I bought it in 2012: - Battery replaced @ 46k & 68k - Rear springs replaced @ 46k due to breakage - Clutch, dual mass flywheel and rear crank seal @ 58k - All 6 exhaust studs at joints between manifolds and rear system (utter pig of a job!) @ 58k - Coil packs @ 58k - Rear wheel bolts due to corrosion of the aluminium collars (not visible externally) @ 58k - All wheels fully refurbished @ 58k - All TPMS sensors replaced @ 58k - Four wheel alignment @ 58k - Front discs and pads @ 60k (must have been replaced previously but I don't have details) - you need to look closely at the rear faces of the discs - often horrendous when the front faces look great - Air con regassed @ 65k - Rear pads @ 68k (again, suspect may have been replaced previously) - Front springs, top mounts, top mount bearings, lower wishbones @ 73k - Drivers window regulator @ 73k - All four front coolant hoses, two cross-over metal pipes @ 73k Still to do: - Replace air con condensers and receiver/drier All of the above is pretty normal for a Cayman of this age/mileage. Total cost of the above (excluding routine servicing and tyres) in my ownership (30k miles) is approx. £3k, all on a DIY basis except specialist stuff like air con regassing and alignment. At a very rough guess, at a Porsche specialist including labour the above would have cost about £6k so that works out at about £1200 per year (5k miles/yr) of additional maintenance, over and above routine servicing/tyres. This is roughly in the ball park of other estimates I've heard of overall running cost including servicing and tyres but excluding insurance & tax of around £2k per year. The standard service interval specified by Porsche is 20k miles/2 years. I think this is way too many miles to go without an oil change - I'd go with 5-10k oil change intervals depending on use pattern. You should also be looking for brake and clutch fluid change every 2 years too (which is specified by Porsche) but not everyone has it done. Aside from the additional issue over Gen 1 S bore scoring, it's all about condition and history with these cars. There are some great higher mileage bargains to be had and some low mileage sheds. If in any doubt about your ability to assess these, buy from a reputable dealer (and check their warranty limitations) or get an independent inspection.