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Posts posted by Woodhouse

  1. Gazwaz, removing the headers can be even more of a pain than the corroded studs issue.  It's very common for the bolts that attach the headers to snap in the cylinder head.  A pal of mine had 7 of the 12 snap in his 911.  


    There is a drilling jig called a Stomski Jig which helps with drilling the snapped bolts out but it's very expensive apparently.  I've also heard of people cutting the flange off an old header to use as a drilling jig.  Not a job I would look forward to!

  2. Glad to see it worked out.  When you say you used an air chisel, was that in between the heads of the studs and the back face of the flange to break the welds or just straight onto the studs to punch the remains out through the flange??


    Its been a few years since I did mine but I remember that getting access with tools was very difficult on some of the studs and I disconnected the lower control arms to swing the suspension struts outboard in order to get a drill straight onto the studs.

  3. Hi Phil,


    It's the front subframe that needs to be partially dropped to replace the aluminium coolant pipes that run cross ways under the steering rack.  There are flexible rubber hoses that connect to the radiators at one of their ends and to the aluminium cross pipes at their other ends .  The flexible hoses have metal quick release connectors at each end and these corrode in the aluminium pipes.


    33359686624_e3f45b2862_z.jpgIMG_20170422_192916120 by DRH986, on Flickr


    All 987 and 997 cars suffer from this; if buying one of these cars, this is one of the jobs that you are going to need to do sooner or later.  The parts (2 x aluminium pipes, 4 x flexible hoses and 2 x short rubber connectors) cost around £200 from Porsche.  I'd say that 8 hours is a bit high; I did this on axle stands in probably around 6 hours plus another hour or so cleaning up and painting some metal brackets.  It is a fiddly job and needs the front end of the subframe lowering around 150mm to gain access.  


    On the other hand, the rusted exhaust studs are an utter pig of a job and took me about 10 hours on top of the 6 hours or so it took to replace the clutch, flywheel and rear crank seal.  I would not want to do that job again and when our other Cayman needed a clutch last year, I got our OPC to do it!  A local Porsche specialist quoted me 4 hours just to replace the studs.  



  4. I'd add that on both our cars (1st one was 8 years old/58k miles and 2nd one was 11 years old/93k miles), the studs at the manifold to exhaust system flanged joints were virtually non-existent.  Neither was blowing yet but they couldn't have been far away.  It was really easy to get the exhaust off as I simply hammered an undersized socket on the remains of the nuts and sheared them off.  They were all absolutely beyond any chance of saving them.  However, the studs are a press fit into the flanges on the ends of the manifolds, and on my car, the heads were tack welded to the flange too, so I couldn't drift them out!  Even after I eventually managed to grind the heads off, I still had to drill the stud remnants out as I don't have an oxy acetylene torch any more and in any case the flanges are inches from the primary cats and I was really nervous of damaging those by hammering.  


    I ended up disconnecting the rear suspension struts from the lower wishbones so I could swing the struts out to improve access with the drill.  The access is one of the main problems - some of the studs are easy enough to get a drill and grinder on to but some are not.


    In theory it's possible to remove the exhaust and manifolds assembled and separate them off the car but the bolts that attach the manifolds to the heads are also highly likely to shear off in the heads and that would probably be even more of a nightmare!

  5. Bristol OPC quoted around 6.5 hours labour (at £60 + VAT/hr, TIPEC rate) total to replace the clutch and the corroded exhaust studs and clamps on one of our gen 1 Caymans last year (I supplied the parts).  I was more than happy to let them do it, as it took me about 10 hours to drill/grind them out on my other Cayman a few years ago, excluding the time it took me to do the clutch, flywheel and rear main seal.  I had a quote from a local reputable indy who quoted 4 hours labour plus supply of replacement exhaust studs and clamps, to just deal with the corroded studs and clamps only (total quote was £568 incl VAT!).


    Shortly after I did my car in 2014, I went to Belgium and had Gert Carnewal supply and fit his modified GT exhaust for around £420 all in, on an exchange basis.  Had I known what an utter pig of a job the corroded studs are, I would have got the exhaust sorted by Gert first and done the clutch etc. afterwards, which would have been a doddle!


    Gert told me it never takes him more than about an hour to deal with the corroded studs and this is included in his fully fitted price for the exhaust, if needed.  Compare his fully fitted exchange price with any indy or OPC quote for replacing corroded studs and clamps, and the GT exhaust is virtually free (or even better than free, compared with some indys!).   However, he is dealing with these every day so has worked out exactly how to do it and has I believe made some special tools to assist.   

  6. A tweaked gen 2 Cayman S if you've got track days in mind.  On the other hand, if it's road use only, I can't see how you can really lose with another R.


    Personally I've never been able to overcome my aversion to the rear engine concept of the 911, despite Porsche's undoubtedly brilliant efforts to minimise the inherent disadvantages.



  7. I lived in Sweden in the early 2000's and winter tyres are compulsory there.  I only came to appreciate what a massive difference they make when at the end of our 3rd winter, having just put my near new premium summer tyres back on my Porsche 968, we had a late snowfall.  My car which had been a drama free daily driver for 3 winters was suddenly virtually undriveable.

  8. Hi Eon,


    In addition to the good advice above, a couple of other things to check or be budgeting for include:


    - Brake discs - they can look fine on the outside but often wrecked on the inside faces.


    17061024758_cf5957b38e_h.jpgIMG_0761 edited by DRH986


    - Air con condensers - they are pretty exposed and also suffer from leaves and other muck getting sandwiched between them and the coolant rads.  I'd be amazed if they're original and still intact.


    http://17247867401_fd11dd7732_k.jpgIMG_9784 by DRH986


    -  Coolant pipes, especially the ones at the front of the car - the Henn quick fit couplings corrode where they connect to the aluminium pipes that run underneath the steering rack.  You can't really see much externally (other than signs of leakage) but this is what they look like if you can get them apart.


    http://33359686624_2d2f0e2217_k.jpgIMG_20170422_192916120 by DRH986



    However, don't let most of this put you off, especially if you are handy with the spanners as most of these issues are fairly easy to DIY.  The potential for bore scoring is the one to worry about. 


    The best advice I can offer on that is to get it borescoped before purchase (though that may not be conclusive) or buy one from an OPC or a dealer that offers a cast iron warranty against bore scoring (many warranties probably won't cover this).  Otherwise, buy privately from a long term owner who can give you a good idea about oil consumption and the trend (and who you are prepared to trust !).

  9. I recently bought a Mercedes C Class C250D estate.  I'd shortlisted the choices down to the BMW 330/335D, Audi A4 3.0 D and the C Class. I opted for the Mercedes in the end due to the looks, spec (I have the AMG Line Premium Plus with a few extras, in Brilliant Blue which I preferred over the BMW and Audi blues) and interior.  Oh, and SWMBO preferred it!


    The driving dynamics aren't as good as the BMW but I'm very happy with it so far.  And while not slow, it is significantly slower accelerating than my Gen 1 Cayman S, whereas the bigger engined BMW and Audi were as quick, if not quicker, than the Cayman and I felt that might have taken the shine off owning the Porsche!

  10. Hi Dean, 

    I had to deal with the corroded exhaust studs a few years ago when I replaced the clutch and flywheel in my 06 Cayman S and I can confirm it is indeed a pig of a job.  The silly thing is, a couple of weeks later I went to Belgium to have Gert Carnewal fit one of his GT exhausts.  How I wish I'd done this first, as the clutch job would have been a doddle!


    The Carnewal exhaust is highly regarded.  It's a modified genuine Porsche exhaust which Gert supplies on an exchange basis. Back in early 2014, it cost €495 fitted, which was a little over £400 at the time.  For the same price, he could supply by mail order on an exchange basis.


     Approaching four years on, my only negative comment is that there are times when I wish it was switchable on/off like the factory PSE option.  We have another Cayman S with the standard exhaust in the family and its nice to drive that sometimes.  It's not just the extra noise but the modified exhaust does introduce a slight harshness into the whole drivetrain whereas the standard car feels turbine smooth in comparison.  This has only been an issue on long road trips such as our trip to the Spa Classic this year but on the other hand our Porsche driving travelling companions thouht it sounded great when they were following!


    For the cost, the Carnewal is fantastic value, especially when you visit Gert to have it installed.  Having your local Porsche centre just replace the corroded studs would probably cost more than Gert's GT system.

  11. My approach for what it's worth includes:

    -  Always (without fail!) warm it up properly - keep the revs under load between 2-3k RPM and use light throttle application, until about twice as long as it takes for the temp gauge to hit 80;

    -  Never labour the engine (i.e. large throttle application below about 2k RPM) even when warm 

    -  Take extra care when setting off with a hot engine (e.g. sat at lights after a spirited drive) - avoid large throttle application until coolant flow and any local hot spotting in the block has improved;

    -  Regular oil changes (I'm doing 6k/annual changes)  


    I haven't gone for a low temp thermostat or centre radiator.

  12. I had a 986 Boxster years ago that was losing coolant from one of the rads soon after I bought it but it was slow enough that there were no drips under the car.  Once I got the bumper off and separated the a/c condenser from the coolant rad, sure enough there was a tell tale sign of leakage on the rad itself.


    The problem seems to be caused by leaves and other muck getting sandwiched between the a/c condenser and coolant rad, accelerating the corrosion process. Unfortunately, removing the bumper to get access to clean out the muck isn't part of the service schedule so it won't be done unless you ask for it or do it yourself.  One of our Caymans has Zunsport grilles but these don't seem to have made much difference to the accumulated muck between services.