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Woodhouse

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Posts posted by Woodhouse


  1. I've had my 981 S PDK for a month so still getting used to it as its not a daily driver but some initial thoughts compared to our Gen 1 987 S:

     

    -  Steering feel is much reduced 

    -  Not sure about the exhaust pops and crackles (but the wife loves them!)

    -  PASM on 20 inch wheels is in the same ballpark as the Gen 1 PASM on 18 inch wheels for compliance (a pleasant surprise as I was expecting this to be worse as the trade off for the looks of the 20s) 

    -  The jury is out regarding the PDK vs manual box - standard mode shifts like my Mercedes diesel, upshifting at 1500 rpm or so when tootling along.  Sport is a bit better for delayed upshifts but brings the pops and crackles, even with PSE off.  Sport Plus is pretty mental and I can't see me using it much if at all on the road.  Manual mode is handy though.

    -  My 981 has PTV and the handling is sweet but both our 987s are really sweet too with more negative camber than standard at the front so no major improvement there that I've discovered yet.

    -  Performance (acceleration) is slightly improved but I suspect you wouldn't see any difference from a Gen 2 987 S.

    -  Looks are completely subjective and I personally don't see the 981 as overall distinctly better than the 987.  

    -  Tech is obviously much better on the 981.  The Bluetooth for phone and media capabilities including the Jukebox  are very handy.  Also the third display on the right side of the instrument binnacle is really useful with the ability to display oil pressure and temp, extra satnav display, etc.

     

    But, here's the thing.  Last night, I had to make an unexpected 250 mile round trip at  very short notice, so I wasn't in the best of moods!  Mostly motorway but a bit of fast A roads too.  I took our silver 987 S which is up for sale and I hadn't driven either of the 987s since getting the 981.  I really enjoyed driving the 987 and when I got home,  I realised that the 987 has a unique appeal of its own and beats the 981 in some ways that to be honest I can't really explain.  Certainly dynamically there's little in it and for me the relative simplicity and more old school feel and driver involvement are real advantages.  

     

    I think you might have guessed where I'm heading with this.  As the shiny new toy effect wears off, I'm questioning why I've spent three times the value of the 987 on the 981!

    • Like 1

  2. The Porsche spare parts catalogue which you can download from the link below shows the part numbers as 987 542 075 01 (L) and 987 542 076 01 (R).

     

    https://www.porsche.com/uk/accessoriesandservice/porscheservice/serviceandorgininalparts/originalparts/

     

    I bought a replacement for my drivers side last year for £146 (after TIPEC discount) from my local OPC.  The consensus on several forums seemed to be to stick with the Porsche OEM item as many of the aftermarket ones apparently don't ladt as long.


  3. This happened to me last year.  I got the springs from my local OPC for around £183 including TIPEC discount.  I also replaced the top mounts and bearings and bump stops.  I got the top mounts and bearings from Carparts4less and bump stops from OPC.  The top mounts, bearings and bump stops were around £160.

     

    My car has PASM too, which makes it a bit more difficult to disassemble the struts due to the PASM cable.  You'll need a 21mm ring spanner or injector socket with side cutaway to clear the cable when removing the top nut, plus a peg spanner (easy enough to fabricate) to hold the top washer which is keyed to the damper rod when undoing the nut.

     

    I didn't need spring compressors as you can compress the spring sufficiently by hand to get the top nut on/off.

     

    On one side, the damper rod was seized into the top mount.  I used a steel tube that fitted over the top nut flats but sat on the integral washer on the nut, with the PASM cable pushed safely inside the tube, then tapped the end of the tube with a hammer while holding the top mount in a workmate bench, to separate them. With the cable coming out of the damper rod, you can't hammer it directly.

     

    I also had difficulty getting one of the drop link bolts out of the strut.  A heat gun and copper mallet did the trick, after disconnecting the track rod end to allow the strut to rotate sufficiently to get  a good clear swing with the mallet. 


  4. 12 hours ago, Rob63 said:

    As above, its a bumper off job. Well worth doing anyway as its the ONLY way you can clean out the rads etc. It's also a good time to do some DIY mesh installs to the grilles etc.

     

    Ive just completed the centre rad fit, all the trim detaches and refits quite easliy.

     

    As Rob says, you really need to take the bumper off to clean out the crap between your a/c condensers and coolant radiators.  You can't get this stuff out by poking a vacuum down the intakes from the front.  This isn't part of the Porsche service schedule so only gets done if you DIY or specifically ask for it to be done as part of the service.

     

    http://16625931134_6634a01daf_b.jpgIMG_9781 by DRH986, on Flickr

    • Like 1

  5. I like lots of options which is why I gave up looking for a Cayman R and settled for a reasonable spec 981 S which I bought a couple of weeks ago.

     

    Mine has:

     

    PDK 

    PCM with mobile phone preparation & universal media interface (with the Jukebox thing)

    Sport Chrono with dynamic transmission mounts

    PASM

    PTV

    PSE

    Sport Design steering wheel with paddles

    20" Carrera Classic wheels

    Sport Plus seats

    Heated seats

    Full leather

    Crested headrests

    PSE

    Auto dimming mirrors and rain sensor wipers

    Electric folding mirrors

    Bi-xenon PDLS lights

    ParkAssist front and rear

    Cruise control

    Dual zone climate control

    Light design package

    Bose

     

    There are a couple on the list that I'm not that fussed about (crested headrests, folding mirrors, light design package and maybe Sport Chrono too) but the rest are highly desirable/essential in my view.  I'm also sure that many people would not want many of these, so it really is each to their own.

     


  6. Hobdayd, it can be a bit tricky getting the cooling system fully refilled with no air trapped.  In the engine compartment there is a bleed valve on the right hand side.  After filling the system to the max mark, this needs to be opened and the car run for a while.  I left the valve open for several journeys, keeping a close eye on the coolant level and topping up as required, before mine settled down.  

     

    As for changing the hoses, I'd be very surprised if the ones that connect to the aluminium coolant pipes that run across the car near the steering rack could be separated from the pipes without damage to the pipes.  These connections seize due to corrosion.  Unfortunately sooner or later they will start leaking and replacement of hoses and pipes will be required.  Often these are the source of slow coolant loss that can be difficult to track down until the leak rate becomes obvious.


  7. On the 987 and 997 cars, the coolant hoses between the radiators and aluminium crossover pipes suffer from corrosion at the connection between the two.  The rubber hoses have quick release Henn couplings which push into the pipes and are retained by wire clips.  The steel Henn couplings corrode to the point where you can't seperate them from the crossover pipes so need to replace both.

     

    All 987 and 997 cars will need hoses and crossover pipes replacing sooner or later.  The parts are around £200 but its a fiddly job which requires the front subframe dropping for access.  

     

    I did mine last year and wrote up a fairly detailed procedure.  Let me know if you intend to DIY and I'll PM it to you.

    • Like 1

  8. Gazwaz, removing the headers can be even more of a pain than the corroded studs issue.  It's very common for the bolts that attach the headers to snap in the cylinder head.  A pal of mine had 7 of the 12 snap in his 911.  

     

    There is a drilling jig called a Stomski Jig which helps with drilling the snapped bolts out but it's very expensive apparently.  I've also heard of people cutting the flange off an old header to use as a drilling jig.  Not a job I would look forward to!


  9. Glad to see it worked out.  When you say you used an air chisel, was that in between the heads of the studs and the back face of the flange to break the welds or just straight onto the studs to punch the remains out through the flange??

     

    Its been a few years since I did mine but I remember that getting access with tools was very difficult on some of the studs and I disconnected the lower control arms to swing the suspension struts outboard in order to get a drill straight onto the studs.


  10. Hi Phil,

     

    It's the front subframe that needs to be partially dropped to replace the aluminium coolant pipes that run cross ways under the steering rack.  There are flexible rubber hoses that connect to the radiators at one of their ends and to the aluminium cross pipes at their other ends .  The flexible hoses have metal quick release connectors at each end and these corrode in the aluminium pipes.

     

    33359686624_e3f45b2862_z.jpgIMG_20170422_192916120 by DRH986, on Flickr

     

    All 987 and 997 cars suffer from this; if buying one of these cars, this is one of the jobs that you are going to need to do sooner or later.  The parts (2 x aluminium pipes, 4 x flexible hoses and 2 x short rubber connectors) cost around £200 from Porsche.  I'd say that 8 hours is a bit high; I did this on axle stands in probably around 6 hours plus another hour or so cleaning up and painting some metal brackets.  It is a fiddly job and needs the front end of the subframe lowering around 150mm to gain access.  

     

    On the other hand, the rusted exhaust studs are an utter pig of a job and took me about 10 hours on top of the 6 hours or so it took to replace the clutch, flywheel and rear crank seal.  I would not want to do that job again and when our other Cayman needed a clutch last year, I got our OPC to do it!  A local Porsche specialist quoted me 4 hours just to replace the studs.  

     

     


  11. I'd add that on both our cars (1st one was 8 years old/58k miles and 2nd one was 11 years old/93k miles), the studs at the manifold to exhaust system flanged joints were virtually non-existent.  Neither was blowing yet but they couldn't have been far away.  It was really easy to get the exhaust off as I simply hammered an undersized socket on the remains of the nuts and sheared them off.  They were all absolutely beyond any chance of saving them.  However, the studs are a press fit into the flanges on the ends of the manifolds, and on my car, the heads were tack welded to the flange too, so I couldn't drift them out!  Even after I eventually managed to grind the heads off, I still had to drill the stud remnants out as I don't have an oxy acetylene torch any more and in any case the flanges are inches from the primary cats and I was really nervous of damaging those by hammering.  

     

    I ended up disconnecting the rear suspension struts from the lower wishbones so I could swing the struts out to improve access with the drill.  The access is one of the main problems - some of the studs are easy enough to get a drill and grinder on to but some are not.

     

    In theory it's possible to remove the exhaust and manifolds assembled and separate them off the car but the bolts that attach the manifolds to the heads are also highly likely to shear off in the heads and that would probably be even more of a nightmare!


  12. Bristol OPC quoted around 6.5 hours labour (at £60 + VAT/hr, TIPEC rate) total to replace the clutch and the corroded exhaust studs and clamps on one of our gen 1 Caymans last year (I supplied the parts).  I was more than happy to let them do it, as it took me about 10 hours to drill/grind them out on my other Cayman a few years ago, excluding the time it took me to do the clutch, flywheel and rear main seal.  I had a quote from a local reputable indy who quoted 4 hours labour plus supply of replacement exhaust studs and clamps, to just deal with the corroded studs and clamps only (total quote was £568 incl VAT!).

     

    Shortly after I did my car in 2014, I went to Belgium and had Gert Carnewal supply and fit his modified GT exhaust for around £420 all in, on an exchange basis.  Had I known what an utter pig of a job the corroded studs are, I would have got the exhaust sorted by Gert first and done the clutch etc. afterwards, which would have been a doddle!

     

    Gert told me it never takes him more than about an hour to deal with the corroded studs and this is included in his fully fitted price for the exhaust, if needed.  Compare his fully fitted exchange price with any indy or OPC quote for replacing corroded studs and clamps, and the GT exhaust is virtually free (or even better than free, compared with some indys!).   However, he is dealing with these every day so has worked out exactly how to do it and has I believe made some special tools to assist.   


  13. A tweaked gen 2 Cayman S if you've got track days in mind.  On the other hand, if it's road use only, I can't see how you can really lose with another R.

     

    Personally I've never been able to overcome my aversion to the rear engine concept of the 911, despite Porsche's undoubtedly brilliant efforts to minimise the inherent disadvantages.

     

      

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