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78 Geek

About Bushman

  • Rank
    Senior Member


  • My Ride
    987.1 Cayman S
  • Location
    Bedford, UK

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  1. crap headlights

    Hi Tom. yes these are defo the correct ones. set them up off the car using a jump battery, 14swg wires with croc clips and a workmate, shining onto a white board or white wall.. Set up your headlamp unit with the back cover off, in the workmate so that you can change the bulb without moving the unit. Power up the dip beam and project onto the wall. use masking tape or drywipe marker to plot the beam centre point and edges, especially the flat top cut off. swop the original bulb for the Nighteyes LED and do the same again. you need to try and match the new one to the old factory set beam profile by tweeking how the bulb sits into its bayonet mount. I found I had to trim the wings off a bit to allow the bulb to rotate a bit more than it should to get the best beam. yours being a LHD vehicle might be different though. good luck.
  2. crap headlights

    Tony. I believe that H8, H9 and H11 bulbs are identical to look at and the differences are in the wattage output of each type.. H11s being the lowest power at 35w. H7s are a slightly different bayonet fitting and focal length, and are not interchangeable with the others. I put 70w equivalent LED H8/9/11 bulbs ( not fan cooled or heat sinked, but the type with multiple leds round a cylinder with a couple moor glued on the front end) in my front fog lights and use these as DRLs until I work out a way building my own DRLs that look built in and not like aftermarket bolt-ons. I think I'm going to use the black plastic blanking panels just above the Fogs then build a wire mesh grill for each one that should look like a Zunsport mesh
  3. I think you might need to invest in a sat nav or a good old fashioned road atlas Akr. lol
  4. a bit too early for me to commit yet but will defo try to be there.
  5. crap headlights

    yes I did Munch but on the H7s, the bayonet was not adjustable so I trimmed the wings on the bulb with a Dremmel to make them lock up in a slightly different orientation to get the spine more vertical and get a sharper flat top to the beam with the little kick up to the left as expected on a UK spec car. did this on the car though, continually removing and refitting the headlamp unit. again using white boards and marker pens to track progress. I drew the original halogen beam pattern on the boards to start with. Doing this with the main beams entails unplugging the dips as these come on at the same time and confuse the issue which is why I found it easier to do it off car with a booster pack.. plus its a pain to keep removing and refitting the units and i was worried about damaging the lock up system.
  6. Bore Score

    Mine has now done over 120,000 miles and I reckon Ive not added more than 2 ltrs of engine oil ( 5w40 fully synthetic Motul ), in the last 10,000 miles.
  7. Luggage recommendation

    certainly something to think about 'Gator'. a bulk order of 20 + would certainly make a manufacturer more amenable to a custom run of bespoke bags. lets see if any other members are interested or comment on this. I think its a great idea ..
  8. Cayman S exhaust flange bolts size

    good utube link, very useful, cheers for this Taff. I quite fancy a Fabspeed system for mine, is yours a gen 1 or 2? if gen 1, how much please? cheers. Steve.
  9. crap headlights

    the Nighteye H9s i fitted were the 75w 6000k fan cooled units, purple bodies. plenty of room for them, no mods to the housing or shell. make sure that the central spine of each lamp ends up exactly vertical in the headlamp unit to give you the best beam. the cree elements are either side of this spine. you should be able to fine tune these bulbs on their mounts to achieve this by moving the triple bayonet mount sleeve on the bulb chassis. rotation will change the beam projection shape and back and forth the focus and spread ( like a Maglight) I did mine off the car with a white board target and a battery jump pack. hope this helps guys
  10. don't forget to pick up the meatball sauce and a jar of lingonberry jelly for the meatballs.
  11. Window Regulator

    it will do no harm to smother in LM grease Max. its a complicated task though, mine broke a cable last year cos got frozen up and was corroded and frayed. you would be advised to get some door trim clips on hand first as most will break during removal, the trim clip sockets in the door cards are very fragile too so a hot glue gun is useful here, with black glue sticks. . the inner steel cover plate is a pain to remove and has a foam gasket that is easy to damage. I bought a plastic trim removal kit that has a dozen red plastic prybars in various sizes and shapes and found it essential for tasks like this. hope this helps and good luck.
  12. Decat headers

    I've got a set of Gen 1 exhausts in pieces in the welding suite a work. the plan is that I've carefully split the cans and secondary cat housings, keeping the positions of all the pipework and baffles by not disturbing the bottom skin of the silencers. Ive removed the secondary cats and will be re-welding housing back together to give me an expansion chamber per side to reduce pressure pulsing and smooth out flow of gasses whilst retaining the standard mounting system that clamps round these chambers. Ive got a pair of 300mm long stainless round cans, 150mm dia with 75mm through holes on order ( about £40 ea) some 75mm stainless bends to connect the expansion chambers to the cans then a couple of straight reducers to weld onto the exits of the cans to connect back to the tail pipe that I made last year that fitted the stock system. once everything is tack welded into position, I will cut away the remains of the old cans. Just got to find the time now to stay after work and get dirty. I was amazed how tough the cell structure of the secondary cat was and ended up plasma cutting most of it into kit form before getting the tube out. surprised to hear that a gen 2 does not have secondary cats too. pics when I can of progress but realistically a couple of months away.
  13. LED Rear Tail Lights

    look good Tom
  14. I was told by someone, cant remember who, slept since then, that one reason manufacturers make the spoilers retract at a much lower speed than the deployment speed is so that Mr Plod and on board video cant be used to trap you for speeding if they see you with the spoiler up and why manufacturers wont give precise documented speeds for spoiler operations. that said, small surface spoilers have little effect below about 75 anyway.
  15. Hi Barry. the light does not come on in normal mode. the spoiler should lift automatically at about 70 mph and drop automatically at about 55. the light only comes on when you hold the button for the duration it takes to lift the spoiler,then stays on. ( on mine, hold for about 4-5 secs) it should then stay up while you drive around until you go over 70 again then when you drop below 55, it will retract. at least, this is how mine works. When I first got mine, I wasn't sure if mine was working either cos I couldn't see it from the driving position so I taped a short bamboo cane to the tailgate with low tack masking tape in such a way that the cane laid flat over the spoiler loosely hinged to the tailgate with the tape so that when the spoiler lifts, the case rises up quite steeply and I could see this in the mirror. I ran a strip of masking tape over the spoiler too to stop any scratching.. it was only on for 10 mins before I took it off but job done, sanity restored. It might have been easier just to get someone to follow me but where's the fun in that. good luck Barry