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Bushman last won the day on November 7

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61 Geek

About Bushman

  • Rank
    Established Member


  • My Ride
    987.1 Cayman S
  • Location
    Bedford, UK

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  1. crap headlights

    if you zoom in on this pic Jason, you can make out the purple centre post with the free elements either side
  2. Two Screws

    I believe these studs are for the factory option Bose sound plus stereo amplifier that is mounted on the frunk firewall behind the tool panel
  3. crap headlights

    to help you set them up, I ended up with the cree elements either side of the central post lying dead horizontal left and right. this gave the best beam and they are seriously white and bright. there is a slight vertical shadow line created by the post and cree edges but when om main beam, the dip beam stays lit and mainly covers this. if you go whiter than 6000k, you will probably end up with too much blue which has a shorter range than tungsten yellow will project but cuts through rain better. probably not as good long range as 150w halogens and nowhere as good as the long range KC daylites that I had mounted on the roof bar of my old Rangy ( 600w of frontal lights that would over load the alternator and stall the v8 on tickover) these LEDs will not break the bank or the alternator and have lasted longer than two weeks.
  4. crap headlights

    Hi Jason went back through my purchase history and found the seller. he lists loads of led light including these 200w H9s. item number 152570318175 at £18.40. try this mate. cheers Steve
  5. crap headlights

    Hi Windy. I did try 100w blue ( all weather) H9 halogens and they lasted less than 2 weeks. with 19s, 35% sidewalls with hard and lowered springs the ultra fine elements are too delicate. I then bought H9 6000k fan cooled Nighteyes ( purple anodised chassis) and have never looked back. they are brilliant, excuse the pun. The central chassis that supports the cree cluster each side of a central post can be rotated within the bayonet mount to fine tune the light beams to the reflectors in the headlight unit. it is worth spending the extra time to do this to get the best projected light. I did mine off the car in the end, with a jump battery pack to power both dip and mains against a large whiteboard set at various distances. got the LED bulbs from ebay, about £20. I did post about it at the time, must have been nearly a year ago. hope this helps mate. Steve
  6. Tyre ‘weld’ gunk & puncture repair

    that's handy, the wife drives one
  7. Flat battery

    happy days Steve, well done/
  8. Flat battery

    that previous post was called: "flat as a witches tit"
  9. Flat battery

    I had the same problem in September after 2 weeks holiday. I posted a story and a permanent fix that you may find useful. basically, to save ripping out the front nearside wheelarch liners, connect a small battery charger to an old cigarette lighter plug. ( centre pin is positive) and plug it in to the cigarette lighter socket by the ashtray on the centre console. this links directly to the battery. after maybe an hour,( with the doors shut so no interior lights on) there should be enough juice to pop the front lid. hope this helps. good luck
  10. Tyre ‘weld’ gunk & puncture repair

    were you hot footing away from plod Windy, sounds like you went over a stinger. lol
  11. Tyre ‘weld’ gunk & puncture repair

    I had a similar dilemma with my wife's MPV a few years ago, she picked up a screw in the tread gullies and it went down in a few miles so she used the 2 tins of Holts tyreweld that I insisted was carried and got home ok. so I took it off and went to ATS who popped the tyre off the rim, found all the latex foam everywhere inside and refused to repair the tyre and would only offer to fit a new tyre telling us that 'company policy' stated that the tyre was unrepairable because of the sealant.. I told them we couldn't afford another tyre and I had a spare at home that was punctured as well as Id never got round to patching it as we had a new tyre fitted instead. they offered to repair that one and refit it for £20. so I drove home with the old tyre full of tyreweld, got the pressure washer out and removed all traces of sealant in about 2 minutes, dried it off, dragged it round the garden, covered it with dirt and took it back to ATS. they didn't bat an eyelid, washed the tyre, plugged it fitted and balanced it and charged me 20 quid. thanks guys. when we sold the Sedona a couple of years later, that tyre was probably the most reliable thing left on the car. why didn't they just ask me to get my hands dirty as they didn't want to, I could have just wiped it out in the car park with some fore court roll. company policy my arse...
  12. Exhaust recommendations

    you can find an unbranded car back stainless system on fleabay for about £650 or a switchable version for about £950. a Miltek runs about £1200. Fabspeed sounds brill but noisy. Jaz at ~Premier tyre and exhaust, shuttleworth road, Bedford will build you a stainless one for between £5-600. Gert at Carnewal does a very good exchange for a modified and de-catted modified stock system as an alternative and has a terrific reputation for his service and workmanship Ive seen various HP claims linked to removing the secondary cats, who needs 4 anyway, but they all seem to point to horsepower gains without causing engine management issues. several posts on this and other sites warn about manifold bolts and studs snapping or stripping when changing exhausts, so beware of this. hope this helps Ian
  13. Cayman S exhaust flange bolts size

    would it not be cheaper and beneficial to run over to Carnewal in Belgium and get Gert to put one of his modified exhausts on including new bolts and gaskets which is likely to cost less than your local OPC just changing the bolts and you end up with a sporty exhaust .
  14. Pipes

    my engineering eye ( best guess after a large sherbert) thinks that the tailpipe you have shown here is much too small to fit a stock Tee pipe. a Vernier measurement of mine reads exactly 70mm OD so that is what the bore of the new one will need to be. the overall length of the stock S Porsche item is only 150mm long to keep it tucked in to the body line and no wider than 185mm or it wont fit through the rear splitter bodywork