Founder Beanoir™ Posted October 28, 2020 Founder Share Posted October 28, 2020 38 minutes ago, Andyoz said: Sounds good. Just heading out to garage to have a look. p.s. @Beanoir™ I'm going to resurrect an old thread of yours re. the R and LSD/understeer. Its a good topic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyoz Posted October 29, 2020 Share Posted October 29, 2020 (edited) 14 hours ago, Beanoir™ said: Rear spolier on the R is attached to the boot lid. The blank panel on the R that covers the normal spoiler position is attached to the bumper, so nothing more to do than what you see in that video. Ok, what threw me was this video where at 01:00 the guy needs to access 3 x Torx screws under the spoiler. But then the other video in earlier post doesn't seem to show that so if that's the case it looks easy. Here's photo of the fixed R spiler. Edited October 29, 2020 by Andyoz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Windymiller Posted November 21, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 21, 2020 (edited) Finally got round to starting this minor repair (replace left side silencer actuator valve). The bumper is easy to get off, i may do a ‘how to’ in the next couple of weeks - just need to take your time but every fixture was a combo of 10mm & 13mm nuts and T-20 & T30 torx nuts. I also removed the left side heat shield to gain easier access to the actuator. All went well. However, the cheaper designtek pattern part from D911 had a threaded shaft (that attaches to a ball joint on the valve) that is ~10mm shorter than the OEM item, so it’s too short to reach the ball joint and provide full range of travel to the valve. 🙄🤨 so Monday I’ll be returning the cheap actuator to D911 and getting a genuine one on order from Silverstone OPC 🤷♂️ on the plus side, I now know where the emergency boot released wire is and my tail pipes have been polished to within an inch of their life 🤩😁 Edited November 21, 2020 by Windymiller 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windymiller Posted November 30, 2020 Author Share Posted November 30, 2020 (edited) So I returned the DesignTek valve actuator to D911 and bought an OE one from Silverstone OPC, which with PCGB / TIPEC discount cost £94 (incl VAT). Fitted it on Saturday - took <1hr, it’s just 3 nuts off with an 8mm ring-spanner, then ~2hrs to re-fit bumper & lights etc. All fixed so I now have ‘stealth’ mode back which should please the neighbours when I start up for early Sunday morning drives 😉😜. Photos of valve in ‘relaxed’ (no vacuum) sport mode, and retracted (under vacuum) quiet mode. The old one that I removed rattled when shook so was clearly broken. Oh and this is the 997 actuator (which Porsche themselves say is not ‘the right part’ for the 987... 🤔🙄🤷♂️) Edited November 30, 2020 by Windymiller 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windymiller Posted November 30, 2020 Author Share Posted November 30, 2020 8 minutes ago, Windymiller said: So I returned the DesignTek valve actuator to D911 and bought an OE one from Silverstone OPC, which with PCGB / TIPEC discount cost £94 (incl VAT). Fitted it on Saturday - took <1hr, it’s just 3 nuts off with an 8mm ring-spanner and a ~5mm ‘double-ear o-clamp’ compressed with some bull-nose crimps; then ~2hrs to re-fit bumper & lights etc. All fixed so I now have ‘stealth’ mode back which should please the neighbours when I start up for early Sunday morning drives 😉😜. Photos of valve in ‘relaxed’ (no vacuum) sport mode, and retracted (under vacuum) quiet mode. The old one that I removed rattled when shook so was clearly broken. Oh and this is the 997 actuator (which Porsche themselves say is not ‘the right part’ for the 987... 🤔🙄🤷♂️) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 Has anyone dealt with this issue on a 981? Having now had a look, with the car up in the air - it doesn't seem like it's too tricky to pop these off and go to work on them off the car with penetrating fluid. Is my ambition overtaking my spattering talent (extremely modest). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windymiller Posted February 23, 2021 Author Share Posted February 23, 2021 (edited) It appears from your photos that the 981 valve actuators are easier to access than the 987 ones 👍🏻 ‘All’ you have to do is undo the x3 nuts (8mm on a 987) that secure the actuator on its bracket (these will likely snap off the studs and then you’ll need a new valve actuator anyway... 🤔🙄🤨) and cut off (I used the junior hacksaw gently) the ‘double-ear’ crimp that holds the braided hose (it’s plastic inside) on to the actuator. NB: there is a very small circlip in the ‘ball’ that must be removed prior to ‘popping’ the ball of the actuator push-rod off of the ‘spigot’ of the moving armature of the valve itself. It looks like the actuators are different to those on the 987, but they might be the same? Or perhaps the 981 ones are the same as the 991 ones? 🤷♂️ Do be aware that OPC told me 987 actuators were not purchasable separately, only as part of the £2k silencer! So I bought 997 actuators which are available separately at £120ea. (and which have the same pierburg OEM part no. stamped on them as the old ones I took off). So if they tell you you can’t buy 981 ones do investigate 991 ones 👍🏻 Good luck sorting yours out. What’s the issue - physically stuck in position or just not operating under vacuum? Edited February 23, 2021 by Windymiller 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 They did tell me they can’t be purchased but, by way of offering assistance, they could relieve me of 3 grand to sort it. I’ve seen the various vacuum bits on design911 and have made an enquiry on those which I believe to be the right ones. I’ll see what comes back. I’ve been giving the nuts and bits a daily dose of penetrating fluid, with dome good weather, I might have a proper go at them this weekend. I figure that the worst I can do is damage them both, but I can’t really see how that would make the situation any worse? Will the car get upset if the vacuum hoses are left off and exposed to atmosphere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windymiller Posted February 23, 2021 Author Share Posted February 23, 2021 (edited) If the 981 operates the same way as the 987 (ie no vacuum = pse on) then just tape up the removed hose ends and keep your pse switched on until you’ve refitted the new valve actuators. if you don’t block of the hose ends they will likely just ingest crud and that could end up blocking them thus preventing them pulling vacuum to operate your (new) actuators once fitted. Edited February 23, 2021 by Windymiller Pse on/off + vacuum correction 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzio Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 Ohh finally i found someone who have similar problem to mine. the muffler of my 987 3.4 rattle , it disappear on sport mode. Before reading this post i was thinking the problem was the valve how moves inside the muffler , but now i start thinking the problem is the solenoid.. how can i see wich is the problem? thank you very much and sorry for my english maurizio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzio Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 Ohh finally i found someone who have similar problem to mine. the muffler of my 987 3.4 rattle , it disappear on sport mode. Before reading this post i was thinking the problem was the valve how moves inside the muffler , but now i start thinking the problem is the solenoid.. how can i see wich is the problem? thank you very much and sorry for my english maurizio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windymiller Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 Hi Maurizio, I think as yours is making a rattle in ‘quiet’ mode (ie when the system is trying to pull a vacuum) that stops when you switch the exhaust to ‘loud’ mode (ie the system stops trying to pull a vacuum) it would suggest that it is one of (or both, but low probability to occur at the exact same time) the rear silencer valve actuators, rather than the solenoid in the engine bay. If there was no rattle in quiet mode that would suggest the solenoid wasn’t working and thus not switching the vacuum on. I think the only way to know for sure is to find a friendly garage with a ramp, a hand vacuum pump and see if you can disconnect the vaccum Pipes a section at a time and attempt to draw vacuum between / at each component or section. it’s actually easier than it sounds. Hope that’s helpful. 👍🏻 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyoz Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 (edited) Just an update on my PSE rattling that was a different issue to the post above. It was the PSE actuator mount that was loose so it rattled at idle when PSE was on or off. I had a tidy weld done on the bracket whilst the whole exhaust was pulled off to install the catless headers and new hardware (bolts, nuts, brackets). Edited March 14, 2021 by Andyoz 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izzio Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 Hi, finally this morning i take some time trying to solve the rattle problem. so, seems like not enough vacuum for pull strong the valve but when you turn off the engine ,for a few second vacuum is on and the valve stays strong pulled on close . So i desume no leaks of vacuum. i suppose something like ecu at idle not to command maximum vacuum, is it possible? Take a look at this video, thank you for suggestion IMG_3028.MOV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBhoy Posted April 18, 2021 Share Posted April 18, 2021 I’ve just replaced one of my actuators on the drivers side of my 987 Gen II as it felt seized and also had the rattle one of you guys also had. More annoyingly it seemed to be stuck on quiet mode. Frustratingly however I’ve noticed the removing the old actuator has taken the small ball like part with it that presumably opens the valve inside the exhaust! Presumably this part can’t be fixed? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windymiller Posted April 18, 2021 Author Share Posted April 18, 2021 You can pop the ball connector off the valve actuator ‘pivot arm’, but first you have to remove a small pin/clip that ‘traps’ the ball connector onto the actuators pivot arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnBhoy Posted April 18, 2021 Share Posted April 18, 2021 Yip did that. The ball came with the arm! The rattling makes sense now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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