GregD2016 Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 That's the stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJMC Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Well, I went the Autoglym route. Collected car yesterday, so today I clayed with Bilt Hamber and warm running water - not too difficult. Then cleansed. Then AG SRP, then AG HD wax. The polish and wax can be applied to the whole car before polishing off. Pleased with the results... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobDJ Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 I'm a huge fan of the Gtechiq range of paint protection products, I was always a wax/polish fan and more antiquated products available from the detailing stores. Since using it on my previous cars i'd always have it applied. The difference in the protection it offers and the longevity of the protection is night and day compared to a wax. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Langlord Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 You will always get a million different views on this and it really depends on the level you are willing to go to. in my view there are three options. standard three stage wax and polish you can do. Generally to maintain the finish and protection as has been said you are looking at reapplication every month or so. 2nd - full detail and correction plus a sealant. This should cost in the region of £500 to £1,000 for a new car and you can't compare it to the rubbish from the dealers. Generally speaking this process with take a professional detailer circa 3 days to complete. The finish of this is the very best you will achieve and the protection is also superior as your effectively adding a top coat over the clearcoat that should last a minimum of a year. 3rd - ppf - now again there are different options for this. Full detail first or straight application. Full or part coverage and then what protection you add over it. personally I have always had my cars professionally detail when new, the exception is the gt4, where I have covered the majority of the car in ppf, fullowing a stage 1 correction and then covering it in a sealant. Without question the shine and finish can't compare with just a straight correction but for me I wanted that added security. Especially as I am taking it on the track. i will post some photos of cars showing the difference before and after tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJMC Posted November 25, 2016 Share Posted November 25, 2016 What do you do with ppf when you get a stone chip in it? Does it chip, tear, rip? Are you able to "touch it in? I'm guessing you'd have to have the panel re-covered? Just curious how it gives added security, or does it come with a force field? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Square Images Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Its a polycarb that is applied to the car. Its a couple of mm thick and generally stones bounce off it. The company who originally patented it (now owned by 3m) invented it for edges of rotor blades in the desert. The newer stuff "self heals" with hot water too. I've had it on the track car for 7 years. Only downside to the older stuff is it yellowed over time. Newer stuff is much much better. If you pierce it, it will need to be replaced. No filling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Langlord Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 As has been said generally speaking the film holds up a lot better than paint work and XPEL and suntech all give at least 5 year warranties on the product. You can also easily replace a panel if it does get really badly damaged. Here are a few pictures of my car being done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Langlord Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 I forgot to say if you go down the PPF route I seriously suggest going with a recommendation and get them to explain what they are going to do. The company that did mine use some custom templating allowing for more of the edges to be rolled over so that its far less visible. This obviously takes more time and costs more as well, I also had a correction detail prior to getting the film added. Some feel this is over the top as the film hides a lot of the imperfections, however for those panels that are not covered which I wanted corrected and sealed with a ceramic coat I felt it helped to hide the film even move. In terms of the film this past weekend was a true test when a kid fell on his bike and hit the front wing. Amazingly the film took the impact, there is a subtle mark on the film but absolutely no damage to the paint. Annoyingly I don't have a photo but I will try and take some to show. Please don't get me wrong though the film will not take everything, at the end of the day its only a couple of mm thick but I am very happy with it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJMC Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Ah yes, I recall a youtube video of a chap with a hairdryer getting a mark out of the self-healing type now you mention it. I guess you have to take a leap of faith, but once smitten nothing else will do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted November 22, 2017 Share Posted November 22, 2017 Could do with some advice on what to do with my 981 S. Had the Gtechniq glaze done at the OPC when I bought the car. It has been washed around 3 times and I am led to believe that the glaze is ok for quite a few washes. I am wondering now if I clay bar the car and put AG HD wax on, would I be removing any of the Gtechniq protection with the clay bar? I have used HD before and I find it good for around 6 months or around 12 washes. Car is garaged all the time and seldom used so washing will be about once a month. Any advice would be appreciated. H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founder Beanoir™ Posted November 23, 2017 Founder Share Posted November 23, 2017 Which Gtechniq product was it? Some last ages, some don’t. If you have a decent ceramic coating (like the Gtechniq Crystal Serum) then there should be no need to clay or wax, if there is a need (ie surface contaminant) then the coating wasn’t applied correctly or at all. Preparation is crucial to applying ceramic coatings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk1 Posted November 23, 2017 Share Posted November 23, 2017 ^^^ What is the Gtechniq `glaze` ? My last two white Cayman`s (OPC used cars) have had the OPC applied Gtechniq Platinum treatment, whilst not the Crystal Serum it has proved excellent. The CR did 8,000 all year round miles in some pretty poor road conditions; the CS has already done 4,000 similar condition road miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJMC Posted November 23, 2017 Share Posted November 23, 2017 Havard - have you spoken to the OPC which applied the Gtechniq? When did you buy it? Was it new or used? I'd be having a go at getting them to re-do it as we hear of so many of these products which aren't applied correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpannerMan Posted November 23, 2017 Share Posted November 23, 2017 The Crystal Serum can only be applied by an accredited Gtechniq person - the ones the dealers supply is not a proper 'ceramic coating' - hence why people refer to them as sealant/glaze etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJMC Posted November 23, 2017 Share Posted November 23, 2017 If you're going the HD wax route, do what I did with my wife's new X1... Bilt Hamber Auto/Car Clay Bar Regular 200g (uses water only as a lubricant); AG Intensive tar remover to cleanse (that's what AG said to use); AG Super Resin Polish; AG HD Wax. Then, after each wash use AG Aqua Wax - this tops up the wax and is easy to apply... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk1 Posted November 23, 2017 Share Posted November 23, 2017 8 hours ago, SpannerMan said: The Crystal Serum can only be applied by an accredited Gtechniq person - the ones the dealers supply is not a proper 'ceramic coating' - hence why people refer to them as sealant/glaze etc. Thank you. What I had applied ... https://gtechniq.com/about-gtechniq/news/gtechniq-launches-‘platinum’-exclusive-to-dealerships/ ... by a Gtechniq trained person at the OPC. Decent value considering the five year warranty, as opposed to the cost of preparation / application of Crystal Serum to a used car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted November 23, 2017 Share Posted November 23, 2017 9 hours ago, DJMC said: If you're going the HD wax route, do what I did with my wife's new X1... Bilt Hamber Auto/Car Clay Bar Regular 200g (uses water only as a lubricant); AG Intensive tar remover to cleanse (that's what AG said to use); AG Super Resin Polish; AG HD Wax. Then, after each wash use AG Aqua Wax - this tops up the wax and is easy to apply... It's great stuff the Aqua Wax. I use it on all the cars, never mind the Cayman. 19 hours ago, Beanoir said: Which Gtechniq product was it? Some last ages, some don’t. If you have a decent ceramic coating (like the Gtechniq Crystal Serum) then there should be no need to clay or wax, if there is a need (ie surface contaminant) then the coating wasn’t applied correctly or at all. Preparation is crucial to applying ceramic coatings. Hi Beanoir, I was told that it was a ceramic coating but on the receipt it just says Gtechniq and £420 + VAT. The car is immaculate and water beads off it like it has just been waxed. I am just not sure how long I should go without adding extra protection myself or whether additional wax or claying will affect what I have already paid for. 9 hours ago, DJMC said: Havard - have you spoken to the OPC which applied the Gtechniq? When did you buy it? Was it new or used? I'd be having a go at getting them to re-do it as we hear of so many of these products which aren't applied correctly. I will speak to Porsche Leicester tomorrow. Car was collected on the 20th August this year. It has done 1000 miles and had 3 washes. One thing the salesman said was that the car had to be completely dry before the sealant is applied, or the whole car would have to be re-done. I have never had anything like this before so I just wanted to know the best way forward. H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted November 23, 2017 Share Posted November 23, 2017 Looking at those links, I wonder if it the platinum that I have had done. I got a bag with microfibre cloths, shampoo, tyre shine, bug remover etc. I was thrown in as part of the deal for the car but he definitely said it was a ceramic coating. H. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founder Beanoir™ Posted November 24, 2017 Founder Share Posted November 24, 2017 14 hours ago, Havard said: Hi Beanoir, I was told that it was a ceramic coating but on the receipt it just says Gtechniq and £420 + VAT. The car is immaculate and water beads off it like it has just been waxed. I am just not sure how long I should go without adding extra protection myself or whether additional wax or claying will affect what I have already paid for. The Platinum package offered by the OPC uses GtechniqCS Light. Its a good product but will not last as long as the full Gtechniq CS which comes with a 7 year guarantee but you'll pay another £2-300 for that. You'll get about 3 years from the CS light. On another note, if you want a product that does the same but can be applied at home without the risk associated with using the CS light type products, then I would highly recommend Soft 99 Fusso Coat Dark - I had my M5 detailed the other week and 2 coats applied following a full machine polish. Its never looked better and its basically still clean after 2 weeks of the daily winter commute! Far superior to the AG HD stuff. The best bit, it costs £22!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJMC Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 On 24 November 2017 at 10:58, Beanoir said: On another note, if you want a product that does the same but can be applied at home without the risk associated with using the CS light type products, then I would highly recommend Soft 99 Fusso Coat Dark - I had my M5 detailed the other week and 2 coats applied following a full machine polish. Its never looked better and its basically still clean after 2 weeks of the daily winter commute! Far superior to the AG HD stuff. The best bit, it costs £22!! £22 for "parts"... what was the labour charge for the machine polish and application out of interest? I just found a chap in Rugby who was recommended by my long-term tyre supplier to refurbish a scuffed wheel for my son. He did a great job. His workshop is full of exotica getting painted, detailed, etc. Could be the local "go-to" guy around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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