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  1. Hi all Just thought I'd share my experience of replacing the interior boot/bonnet release switch. My frunk switch stopped working the other day - the switch itself suddenly felt a bit loose, which I soon learnt was a common issue, where a small part of the internal plastic gubbins breaks, so a whole new switch is required. Searched on D911 etc and the part was coming up at around the £80 - £100 mark. But there are lots of sellers on eBay of what looks like the same part for around £20. So I decided to take a punt on the cheaper option, on the basis that if it was a cheap cop
    4 points
  2. If you're actually asking the question, then you may find it's ok. It's a period torque converter box, so it delivers a certain kind of experience. If it was the sort of experience you especially didn't like, you'd probably already know that. It's subjective. Personally, I think it's comprehensively ruinous to the driving experience and if I wanted ease of use and was happy with slightly slushy, slurry gearchanges, I wouldn't be buying a two-seat sports car. Actually, I would be very happy with the Tip box, but in something like a luxury orientated coupe or saloon. For
    3 points
  3. It's a difficult one to explain and there are contradictions. How can you drive a Porsche without being a show off? To turn that round, if you were a show off, then a Porsche would fit nicely. Does that make me a show off? I took my son to football practice at the weekend. The coach, who I've sort of known for a couple of years said "I didn't know you had a Porsche". I tend not to shout about it. If people ask me what I drive, I say "a Cayman". I either get blank looks or some generally positive interest from those that know what one is. If I'm honest, I am a bit of a b
    3 points
  4. Although here she is being treated very well at a local Detailer currently - should collect her on Saturday 🤩👍🏻
    3 points
  5. Sounds like the 2.7 will fit the bill just right for you, whether 5 or 6 speed. I love my S, do 2-3 track days / yr, give it a spanking once warmed up, and don't lose a nights sleep re IMS/RMS/B Score/getting struck by lightening the sky falling on my head etc. All are great cars, drive a 2.7/2.9/3.4 against each other and you'll likely feel the difference, but not feel shortchanged whichever you decide on. Test drive LOTS.
    2 points
  6. Am looking forward to this (so long as none of you spit on my lowly S......😁
    2 points
  7. I would disagree that the 2.7 / 2.9 is much more usable on the road. If you're worried about the speed limit, as opposed to enjoying the road safely (not the same thing at all), they're both too fast. You'll be lifting off all the time and regardless of S or non S, you won't even be able to rev the thing out in third. Personally, I've never had an issue wringing the snot out of the 3.4 (have had both gen 1 and gen 2). The 3.4 is not some 600hp star ship. It's faster than the non-S for sure, but it's not so big a difference that suddenly you can't use the performance. Th
    2 points
  8. Just to help anyone else with this problem I've finally sorted the clutch judder on my Cayman this weekend. (lived with it for two years and although it never got any worse it was doing my head in). After originally changing the clutch and flywheel with no difference, then changing the engine mount, gearbox mounts and clutch slave cylinder and still having the clutch judder,I finally removed the box again and fitted a new clutch kit. The gearbox splines looked dry and slightly rusty which I think was the culprit, I can't remember if I greased the splines originally but I guess I must have miss
    2 points
  9. You need CCA for cold starts - matching or being near OEM spec is fine. This is what short term burst the battery can provide when it's cold. Ah - Amp hour is the amount of charge a battery can output during a 1 hour period. The difference between 75 and 80 is, again, negligible. Fitting the battery is easy - you need basic hand tools and some common sense: Remove the battery vent hose (if connected at all). Remove the negative terminal, twist the strapper to the side and leave it there, out of the way. Remove the positive terminal, twist the str
    2 points
  10. Link below from 911UK and the poster, deMort, is an independent service owner. The tensioner arm is common to all 9A1 engines, 987.2 and 981, I think it may also appear on the engines on 982/718 models. http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=132158 Routine annual service including a ‘belt check’, in the past I’ve limited this to a visual inspection for cracking. This time: I tried a 30mm spanner on the tensioner arm, the arm rotated but did not spring back. The pivot of the arm was seized as described above, oh bu**ger. In a fit of ‘while you’re in there’ the repl
    2 points
  11. @wtaite01 That's the problem I found when I owned mine. Lots of people do buy these cars to show off, but really as you said, when you buy an old one, you buy it to appreciate the engineering and driving experience, and it's the same price as a new Fiesta! I experienced everything from insults to praise. One work colleague was particularly nasty, a driver trapped in a £30k Insignia! It's a funny old society we live in, yes I appreciate a lot of people have very little and a Porsche doesn't sit well with that, but a Porsche should also inspire and excite.
    2 points
  12. Was this your first track day or just the first in the Cayman? If the former, I'd probably just learn to drive it as is before spending money on modifications (I did maybe 8 or 9 track days with my old Boxster before changing anything). Regardless, the first thing I would do is have a proper alignment. Toe will impact turn in and so you may like to tweak it to suit your preference. Whilst you are at it, you should probably max out the front camber too. This will help in turns but will primarily help to manage the outside tyre wear (you may have felt the Cayman rolling onto the outside edge of
    2 points
  13. WOW! Did you buy your car from the lost city of Atlantis? That looks incredibly rusty. If it were me, I'd take it off and have it blasted and powder coated... Or just buy a decent used one for 30 quid off ebay. I probably wouldn't bother upgrading it for road use
    2 points
  14. I'm retiring next March and was thinking of a manual Cayman R as a replacement for my Elise. If the right car presents itself before then I could push things along, so if you currently own a manual CR, I could potentially be interested. In no rush at all, prepared to be patient and would prefer to buy from a caring owner. Thanks very much for looking. Paul.
    2 points
  15. I also feel the pressure of having such an eye-attracting car, though mostly I like it. I suspect a larger proportion than average of Porsche owners who park on London streets, choose black or grey and allow their cars to become very dirty, in a measure to make them vanish from the eyes of potential magpie street-corner kids and nefarious 3am bandits. For every yellow or orange or light green Porsche - the big show off colours - I bet there's a garage, such as the one in which Windmiller keeps his car ensconsed.
    2 points
  16. Mine went around 50k. It was the ‘spring fingers’ on the pressure plate - some had snapped so wasn’t applying sufficient pressure to the friction plate to engage it fully with the flywheel. Basically the clutch pedal went very light and the car juddered when pulling away. I had the clutch replaced (Sachs is OEM and much cheaper than Porsche branded) and DMF (made by LUK but seemingly unable to buy from anywhere other than expensively from Porsche sadly). Total cost was about £1800 (but £900 alone was just the DMF part!)
    2 points
  17. Thanks for this! Friends in the EU, lets see if I can get it shipped over from them.
    2 points
  18. It really depends how the car has been driven. Rev match every down shift accurately and don't drag the clutch from a standstill etc and it will quite possibly last the life of the car in purely wear terms. But other components can force a change. I once bought a 2.5 Boxster on 70k miles with a heavy clutch indicating it was pretty worn. Eventually had to get the clutch done at 120k, not due to wear directly, it wasn't slipping, but because the fork bent due to the weight. Drove the snot out of it, but the clutch lasted I would be fairly sure because I rev match every
    2 points
  19. Quick update on my project car now that suspensions have been installed and new geo. Still lots of work to do till my vision will be completed (if even there is such a thing in life as "completed car" 🤪 )
    2 points
  20. Yokohama mentioned above is a track day tyre that will be very, very tricky when cold and wet. However, the Yokohama Advan V105S can be bought in the correct size and load ratings and is a nice tyre. Probably better than any of the official N-spec options for the 987 - they're all very old. The PS4S is a nice tyre, but pretty pricey. The V105S is a good alternative for a reasonable price.
    2 points
  21. Been past it a few times lately and its been closed Obviously we also have cars and coffee place, thats quite a nice place to go on a sunday or evening, as they are open for outside eating and drinking
    1 point
  22. How are we doing with confirmed attendees guys and girls? I've booked in so look forward to seeing you all there on the day! EVENT TICKETS A reminder for those who haven't yet booked your ticket, the link is https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/126891896077/ EVENT T-SHIRTS And for those who want a souvenir of the day and to really turn up in style, the event t-shirts are available here for purchase https://the-piston-works.creator-spring.com/listing/cayman-r-10th-anniversary?product=387
    1 point
  23. Hello all, Thought I would call this to the attention of all those looking at their options for tyres on 18 inch wheels. The Michelin PS4S is generally considered the best all round tyre available for the Cayman, but like other 'Max Performance' tyres, it is not available in the 18 inch sized that the 987 takes. This new tyre (2021) from Bridgestone is in the same 'max performance' category as the PS4S and is available in the magic 235/40/18 and 265/40/18 sizes. Also, it has fared well in the 2 tests it's been in so far, beating the PS4S in one and coming 2n
    1 point
  24. Craig: I bought some cheapies advertised as 6k ‘Bright white’. And a pair of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264026610242 They are going in Tuesday along with a few other bits. Ill get before and after pics buddy and let you know which ones worked out 👍
    1 point
  25. I agree ,Parr remapped my Cayman R that has 200 cell cats.
    1 point
  26. This question comes up time and time again and there is no 'right' answer. FWIW I intentionally chose the 2.7 non-S when buying my 987.1. The thought of possibly needing to spend nearly £10k on an engine rebuild on a 3.4 put me off. That's not to say that the 3.4's are unreliable as I think that the risk of failure has been hyped up much more than merited, but I preferred to play it safe. I am also aware that I am much less capable a driver than the car is, so increasing the power of the car is not necessarily the way forward. Bear in mind also that the road tax on th
    1 point
  27. Hi All, Thought id start a thread for the progress and updates of my cayman, warning for the purists this will be a driven not a detailed car! but first a little car history, i have had several cars over the last 10 year since i started driving, several mx5 track cars, a 986 & 987 Boxster, BMW m140i, BMW m2, Subaru brz, Subaru wrx sti (the last of them) to name just a few, i do a fair few track days and currently have my trusty little mx5 track toy, however i quite often go to SPA or the Ring and thats where the cayman will come into play,
    1 point
  28. Hi. Advert now live on PH. Link here..https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/11513565 Ed
    1 point
  29. Aye, if the Monday 26th April one is on I’d be up for it 👍🏻
    1 point
  30. Thank you to all for your replies and recommendations. it is amazing the differences in costs huh. Take for example Arrons Exide example at £209, then £126 in the sale, yet the exact same battery, Exide EA852 is available at £75 https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/exide/ea852/ So even with a 45% discount they are still making quite a mark up. crazy huh. Anyhow, long story short, all your replies have been really helpful in understanding the ins/outs of batteries and what the differences all mean. I have gone with the https://www.racshop.co.uk/rac004.html
    1 point
  31. Softronic is a very safe bet. Scott will take good care of you.
    1 point
  32. Hi Samp, I would take a look at Parr below. Long standing Porsche specialists with a long motorsport history. Haven't used them personally but seem to have a very good reputation in Porsche ECU remaps. https://parr-uk.co.uk/porsche-ecu-tuning
    1 point
  33. Anyone driving this weekend? We hit the North Irish Coast on Friday. Awesome weather and place was near deserted... https://www.instagram.com/p/CNMuyeBl9pM/?igshid=1b1xr6tdzvo8g
    1 point
  34. At the opposite end of the spectrum, all four of my drop links slipped out without issue (same as on my 21 year old 986). it seems to be luck of the draw but when you put them back in, give them a Liberal coating of copper slip
    1 point
  35. I fitted new drop links all round on my car just after I bought it. the first drop link took me a week of evenings to remove. The top bolts seize inside the upright like you wouldn't believe. no amount of hammering and heating would budge it. There are threads on other websites which show the owner has had to remove the whole upright off the car in order to remove that top bolt. Have a look on my thread which shows how I did them. the first drop link took me a week, the other 3 took me less than an hour each one 😁 good luck
    1 point
  36. Just had a track day at Donington Park on Tuesday, first track day in my 2011 Cayman S. Was very pleased with the car, performed well. My previous car was an Elise which is an out and out track car, so how did the Cayman compare? For me, I enjoyed the extra power and grunt of the Cayman, I found the car really well balanced, brakes were excellent and didn't fade, tyres also held up during whole of the track day. I know half the fun of driving is heel-and-toe with a manual, but personally I really enjoyed the PDK I have, concentrating on line and braking and letting the PDK maximise the engine
    1 point
  37. 987 - Gen1: In the fog / spots - there is the main bulb.......and below that right at the bottom - a "running light" (?) Seem's i've changed every bulb apart from these - and i noticed how yellow they were this morning. Anyone know they type of bulb these are so i can get some ordered ?
    1 point
  38. Update (I hate it when you have a search to see if your question has been asked before, find it but there's no answer and you can't see what solution the other guy had !) After a bit of thought I decided the issue was with the regulator, not the motor. The motor actually works fine, it makes the window go up and down, it's not like the motor has died. The regulator however is what I had replaced - the factory one broke (cable corroded and snapped) so I fitted a replacement : not a ££££ factory one but one which was sold as 'OEM' and was still significantly expensive rathe
    1 point
  39. I had 5's on a previous car and loved them. Very impressive grip / feedback (Wet especially), noise levels; and wear rates. If the 6's are a further improvement over the 5's......which i'm sure they are......you'll absolutely love them !
    1 point
  40. Dear Ed, My SLR has literally just been picked up this morning by GP Sevens who are selling it on my behalf. It has a recent rolling road tune showing 218bhp. I bought it from them ~18 months ago and want something more useable having scratched the Caterham itch. It's a fabulous car: http://www.gpsevens.co.uk/portfolio-item/caterham-superlight-r-1-8-vhpd-210bhp-6-speed-2002-plaque-number-111/ I have a 1972 911 for Sunday morning blasts (owned almost 24 years). I've been looking at Caymans to replace the SLR.... I don't know if yours
    1 point
  41. Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread. In the end I went for Conti Sport Contact 6. Newer tyre technology than all the N rated tyres and a little cheaper than the Michelins. Will report back my findings. Happy driving everyone and enjoy the weather!!!!
    1 point
  42. That sounds great for both the DMF and clutch. Autodoc currently showing the prices below but would have flash sales on them at times... CarParts4Less show the Sachs clutch kit at £380 after discount but no stock. My R's on 55k miles and I'm tempted to at grab at least a DMF if I see a flash deal and store it away. No way I'm giving Porsche £900.
    1 point
  43. Hello mate, you might find the below interesting, video came out today! Seems like for the 19s the Michelin PS4 S, Conti Sport Contact 6 and the new Bridgestone Potenza Sport would all be good options in the premium sector, with Goodyear Eagle F1 Supersport also worth considering.
    1 point
  44. In my 08 boxster S I had the clutch changed at about 70k as the pressure plate fingers had become wear hardened, making the clutch pedal very stiff. Similar issue to Eponymoose's I suspect. The difference in pedal feel was night and day.
    1 point
  45. Thrust bearing and rear main seal are often changed at the same time.
    1 point
  46. My late '06 CS had its clutch & DMF replaced by the previous owner at 53k miles & also new shocks & top hats & water pump. I've seen some owners manage to get the general average i.e 70k before needing sorting but I've also heard some do over a 100k ???
    1 point
  47. Welcome aboard. And welcome to ‘Porsche life’ 😂 Rest safe In the knowledge every car comes with bills. Few however have the utter thrills, feelings, emotions and enjoyment an on-song Cayman brings with it...... **Oh - and as a detailing freak; Black scares me. They say if your a clean freak...”You don’t own a Black car. A Black car owns you” 😁 Health to enjoy Sir.
    1 point
  48. Aye Syer - our aging Kia Sportage cost about £330 for its major service last year at a local Indy and I paid about the same for its aircon regas last year (£74 incl VAT) as I did for the Caymans this year (£84 incl VAT). Matts hourly rate is currently £65ph + VAT which is about half a typical OPC and he only charges the time taken, not the workshop-manual listed time, so if it takes less time (which it generally does) that is all he charges for. His rates haven’t gone up in over 3 years so he is considering increasing them slightly for inflation, which I think is fair enoug
    1 point
  49. Usually I like to get my hands dirty when it comes to keeping my car clean, but sometimes a job needs indoor space and professional skills, way beyond my own. I've known Paul at Revolve for a few years via a 350z club and a while back he struck out to follow his passion for detailing. I have been watching his work online ever since. After letting him practice on lesser marques like Maserati, Aston Martin and Ferrari, I've been looking forward to having the right job to send his way. I wasn't expecting perfect paint when I purchased on a 6 year old black car, but one of my first vis
    1 point


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