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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/07/20 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Hey guys. Figured some in here might be interested in this. We spent a very long time trying to figure how to reduce weight on an already pretty light car... Carbon deck-lid and doors sprang to mind. That was nearly a year ago! lol And thanks to being at home every day for 12 weeks - here's the first piece... Finally ready for the glass and a test fitting on the car. Pretty happy - 3.5 kg -
  2. 6 points
    It has come to our attention that some members have reported significant issues after having purchased items from PorscheShop.co.uk. We have investigated the issues further and it appears to be a significant and more widespread issue. Until we can successfully establish contact with PorscheShop.co.uk we highly recommend to all members that you do not purchase any items from PorscheShop.co.uk. We have suspended the discount scheme we offer to our Premium Members with PorscheShop.co.uk effective immediately until the issue is resolved. We obviously understand that the recent Covid-19 pandemic has caused many traders and businesses to be facing difficult trading conditions. Whilst this is terribly unfortunate and we would do anything we could to support business partners facing such difficulties, there is no excuse for poor customer service and and for leaving customers facing financial loss. If any member has experienced problems with this particular trader, then please contact us discreetly via private messaging. Thanks The CaymanOC Team
  3. 4 points
    Welcome to Q2 of the Cayman Market Watch, our regular feature primarily to provide you with a view of pricing on the Porsche Cayman market. Aimed at helping those selling or buying to make more informed decisions on price. Cayman 718 The not so new 4 cylinder turbo car introduced in 2016 seems to be a veritable bargain at the moment, prices for private sales of the base 2.0L car with average mileage and a few options are now around £28-30k. Think what you like about the turbo flat-4 cars, but with prices for these cars nearing that of a 987.2, it does start to make you think. These cars would have been around £40k when new depending on how extensively optioned they were. If you're after a well specced 718 S, sporting the 2.5L flat-4 unit, and adorned with such delights as PASM, Sports Chrono, some interior garnish and premium paint and wheel options and a Porsche warranty, you'd have been looking at the thick end of £50k odd when they were new. Today you you will be paying somewhere in the region of £37-40k from a private seller or independent specialist, an OPC will be asking mid-£40k for the same car. Add around £3k for a GTS model, though these are not so sought after as the 981 GTS, and probably not the sweet spot for the 718 model. The recently released 718 GT4 is an interesting thought, it's barely hit the showrooms and the recent CV-19 pandemic has undoubtably had an impact on both deliveries and sales, but also perhaps that it's not been as well received as it's 981 forebear for various reasons. I recently had a conversation with a gentleman who was due to take delivery of his GT4 within weeks, but had decided that in fact he didn't want it. Now, not that long ago you'd have accepted delivery and sold the car on before even collecting it and would definitely have made a decent profit. The 981 GT4 was trading at this point in its life for around 35% over list. Not so the 718 GT4, it seems that if you want one then there are plenty of options and you don't need to pay a premium to get one if you keep your head screwed on. Our prediction on the 718 718 and 718S will hold within 10% of current prices until the end of 2020. Private sales of 718 2.0L could be the sweet spot with sellers keen to sell. The 718 GT4 will be readily available by the end of 2020 and prices around 10-15% below list depending on spec for early delivery cars. Cayman 981 The base 981 cars were introduced in 2013 at a price of £39,694 devoid of options. Today, a well optioned 2.9L car with around 50-60k miles on the clock and generally average in spec, history and condition will be costing you around £24-26k. Find a low mileage, well cared for example with more desirable colour options, some interior chintz, PASM, Sports Chrono etc and you will be looking at £28-30k from a dealer. The 981 Cayman S commanded a £9,000 premium when new and with some nice options would have been a car costing around £55k. Today the premium for an S is a lot less than that. Using the examples above, you should aim to find a well cared for, well optioned reputable independent dealer car for around £30-32k These cars top out in the high £30k's for exceptional well specced cars, with low mileage and a decent warranty at OPCs. The pick of the 981 bunch remains the GTS model. When new these cars represented great value for money for those who were looking for a slightly more driver focussed machine with a good level of specification and all for just £6.5k more than the S model. Today, that margin has grown, with the lowest priced GTS fetching over £40k and the more desirable cars with Porsche warranty, in manual with more expensive options (bucket seats etc) commanding as much as £52,000. Prices have softened for these cars recently, 12 months ago the market was not carrying many cars below £50k. The 981 GT4, was one of those cars that traded at ridiculous margins over list price when it was introduced in 2015, considering it had a list price of around £64.5k, these cars were swapping hands for over £100k at one point provided they had decent and desirable options. The inflated prices softened a bit in 2018, then continued to fall steadily back to more realistic prices. Expect to pay a more realistic price today for a nicely specced car in the region of around list £65k. Prices top out at £73k for top spec, super low mileage OPC cars. Our prediction on the 981 The Cayman S is probably the sweet spot for a prospective owner wanting a 3.4L car with some nice options and prices are likely to hold through to 2021 on these cars. GTS prices may soften a bit more, but desirable and rarer manual cars will probably remain popular, maintain a premium and be snapped up quick. The bottom end of the GT4s will probably fall into the mid-high £50k bracket and paying £70k+ for top end will be a thing of the past by the beginning of 2021. Cayman 987.2 Prices for the 987.2 cars have held quite firm for a while, a slight softening recently due to economic uncertainty and dropping out of the 2 tier age bracket. But still, they command strong money predominantly driven by lack of availability and still possessing the desirable purity of the 987 cars but with the slightly more modern interior finish. The 2.9L base model cars still command in the region of £17-20k depending on mileage and spec. If you're looking for a 3.4L Cayman S you can find rather leggy examples for £17k upwards, but the decent lower mileage, well cared for cars with desirable options still requiring you to spend up to £23-25k. Black edition models may fetch slightly more, but generally only because they tend to be better cared for examples, certainly don't over-pay for the 'limited edition' here. The Cayman R is perhaps one of the most sought after Caymans made to date, and rightly so. Prices held firm in the mid-£40ks for some time, with some OPC cars advertised at as much as £50k until towards the end of 2018 when the market started to soften and prices have steadily dropped since. That said, you will still pay a healthy premium over a 987.2 S. Finding the right car with the most desirable options is the challenge prospective owners face, not helped by low volume production numbers. You may find some OPCs still offer these cars for sale and will come with a warranty, these will be the top end of the Cayman R market, advertised for around £40-42k. At the lower end of the market, more leggy, less desirably specced cars will be in the lower end of the £30k bracket. Expect to pay around £35-37k for a car with a good history and the important 3 Cayman R options (bucket seats, Spyder wheels and a manual gearbox). There seems to be some denial amongst owners and independent specialists on realistic prices for these cars until recently, so expect to haggle to obtain correct pricing with either. Our prediction on the 987.2 We wouldn't bet on prices for any of the 987.2 cars to move much for the remainder of the year and into 2021. There may be the odd bargains around if you're happy to take a punt on a higher mileage car requiring a few quid to make up for neglecting previous owners, but generally these cars prices are buoyant because of the limited supply. Cayman 987.1 Were it all began in 2005 with the newly introduced Porsche 2 seater coupe, the Cayman S shortly followed by the base model Cayman. Prices are perhaps most varied for this generation of car than any other Cayman. Those brave enough to enter Cayman ownership can do so for less than £10k, but expect these cars to have traveled over 100k miles and certainly requiring some care and money over the first 12 months of ownership. Cars with much lower mileage do exist and prices as high as £22-24k are not uncommon for mint examples at some non-specialist dealerships, perhaps hoping to take advantage of prospective customers with little knowledge of the cars. These top end priced cars are best avoided in our opinion due to the instant depreciation you will suffer and dubious warranties offered being worth very little. Aim for a car in the mid teens (£14-17k) with a healthy mileage and a good maintenance record and don't be put off by a car which has had a specialist engine rebuild. Enthusiast owned cars are also likely to be a better bet and pre-purchase inspections can help to avoid any nasty expense in the first 12 months of ownership. Our prediction on the 987 We don't expect prices to move much but mint examples are likely to be harder to find. Increasing variation in price due to cars falling well into the sub £10k price bracket going into 2021.
  4. 3 points
    I've created a step-by-step guide complete with pictures for removing of the trunk / boot lid trim so you can access the vibration damping weight to sort out the dreaded 'trunk-clunk'. See attached .pdf file. Hope anyone who needs it finds it useful and helpful. Windy PORSCHE Cayman 987 Trunk Clunk Fix - How to Guide.pdf
  5. 3 points
    All sorted now, not a wobble/clunk/rattle/joggle from the boot/trunk lid. If anyone wants / needs a step-by-step 'how to' guide for removing the trunk trim to sort out a trunk-clunk issue (or any other trunk lid snag), then follow this link to just what you need 😉
  6. 3 points
    Just checked under my bonnet and the incompetent fools completely forgot to put the engine back in there....! 😱 🤪😁
  7. 3 points
    I have a spare MAF from my 2006 2.7 if you need it. Feel free to make me an offer. Alternatively, I note that you're not that far from me (cambridge). If you're handy with a spanner (as I'm not) you're welcome to come by and swap it over with my MAF to test it to see if it solves your problems? The reason why I have a spare is due to having slight hesitation at 1800 revs when accelerating and since it had recently had new plugs, coils I rather naively just took it to a local garage and asked them to replace the maf with a new genuine one from porsche in the tune of £400 for the part alone! Didnt cure the hesitation ☹️
  8. 3 points
    May as well update this, picked up a gen 1 S at the weekend. 1 owner with a recent rebuild from Porsche. So not immune to future issues (as a hartech rebuild would be) but gives me enough confidence that I can treat it well and it should be fine for a (long) while hopefully!
  9. 3 points
    Good afternoon all, I put a deposit on a Gen 2 2.9 at the weekend and will be collecting the car on Thursday. It's a basic spec but has low millage (34k) and a good history file. It's in Guards Red and I can not wait to pick it up. Cheers, Adam.
  10. 2 points
    Cayman revelation: It's the ultimate pizza delivery car! I should copy right that before some millennial YouTube steals it. I'm using the Cayman as a daily for a couple of days before Castle Combe and shock horror my local pizza shop have started charging for delivery. Being a tight ass, I didn't fancy paying the whopping £2.50 for delivery, so did the logical thing. Get the jack out, increased the front ride height, folded myself into the bucket seats, put the harnesses on and carefully negotiated the maze of speed humps at 2mph to the shop. Much to the annoyance of the junior estate agent (I'm guessing) in the black BMW 1 series behind. Turns out the roll cage and engine cover net is perfect for securing a pizza box, keeping it perfectly level and importantly, hot. Pizza stayed in the centre of the box, didn't touch the edges at all. So if work takes a downward turn, I now know I have the ultimate pizza delivery car.
  11. 2 points
    over the years i have had macans from the dealer as loaners..........sport mode was the ONLY way to safely pull out onto the road ,i did burn through 20 dollars of fuel in 2 days though lol
  12. 2 points
    It's the nature of the sport mode. It's kind of self explanatory. Be mindful that the car is essentially in eco mode until you press that or the sport plus button.
  13. 2 points
    2009 987 Porsche Boxster Cayman - Service and Technical Information SIT your welcome 😉
  14. 2 points
    A while ago I made the mistake of thinking Parr had made a mistake with the suspension geometry front camber, as it was significantly less than I usually ask for. It turns out they made no mistake at all. The front strut brace I fitted (pictured) limits the camber adjustment at the top mounts and basically takes the camber back to stock. No fun there. I basically have 3 options: Sell the strut bar and go back to aggressive camber, take a drill and grinder to the strut bar holes or live with baby camber settings without modifying the bar... Well it's due to rain the next few days and I have a big pillar drill to play with!
  15. 2 points
    Doing it yourself is great, until something snaps / goes wrong / you don’t have the correct left-handed glass-handled mallet for the job. Then I wish I’d left it to a (trusted) pro’. if you have time and space to your advantage, and can get the car up safely and securely do it yourself. But I guess once you’ve started you’re kinda committed with suspension... 🤔 I have a set of manual spring compressors you can borrow Nick. Text me if you want them.
  16. 2 points
    🤔🤩🤪 https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/10669575
  17. 2 points
    Re the coolant - the tank is in the engine bay, but there is a top up cap in the boot along with the oil filler. The coolant is checked and topped at a service, so it shouldn't need any unless there is a leak. Of course there is a warning light for low level and temp guage might get high if it is low. Here is a good video for getting the engine cover off: The oil level is measured when the engine is warm on a level surface, by using the electronic guage in the trip computer.
  18. 2 points
    You don't need to run the car on V Power. I have run Tesco Momentum for years (not just on the Cayman) and it's a fine fuel. Both meet the BS7800 spec for super unleaded and are 99 octane with 5% ethanol. You can argue additives but I doubt it makes much of a difference and is all marketing; you'd expect the engineers designing the standard to put them in if they were so beneficial... Stop wasting your money! 👍
  19. 1 point
    MG midget was my first car. That was red as well. Really tiny car for a 6ft 2 guy. Bought it when I was 15 and rebuilt with my dad. Really got the hang of filler and taught myself to spray.
  20. 1 point
    Having had the Michelin PS and recently the PS4's fitted to my car.... although not a Cayman.... I cannot recommend them enough, the level of grip and general all round performance is fantastic, and well worth the money. I don't think I would put anything else on my car now.
  21. 1 point
    As the others have said...when I 1st picked up my CS, it had old ish PS2's on the front, and Bridgestone RE050's on the rear (both N rated)....due to a blow out at an inopportune time, I've ended up with split Michelin's; PS4 on the front , SuperSport on the rear (neither are N rated). Improvement in ride and handling was material. And they manage 2-3 track days a year without issue as well.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    I would say if your driving style doesn't require the same tyres front and rear (i.e. you don't notice any difference) and you don't have any issues with the previous tyres then stick with them. Some people require more from their tyres than others, depending on how they drive. The Goodyear SS are a good middle ground between price and performance, as are the Michelin PS4 (Not the 4S). If you're a more spirited driver and push the limits of tyre adhesion often then I would recommend the 4S.
  24. 1 point
    I found they’re much of a muchness if you’re going with license free units. I’ve got a pair of Cobra 1035. You’re welcome to borrow and try them out if you like, they don’t get much use in normal day to day life, funnily enough. All I’d say is, with license free handsets you won’t get anywhere near the stated range when you start getting in to hilly country. https://www.cobraelectronics.co.uk/two-way-radios/cobra-adventure-am1035-flt-12km-floating-2-way-radio-2-pack.html p.s. I do the knob jokes round here!
  25. 1 point
    Sorry as this comes a bit later than promised but I just picked the car up from the garage today. As a reminder mine is a Gen 2 S with PASM, and I’ve just had the H&R 35mm springs installed. I’ve only driven about 15 miles and haven’t had the alignment done yet, so this is a really early view and a very positive one. My concerns were: a) would the drop in height be too much, and b) would it compromise the ride too much. Height/drop I’ve measured the drop and its 20mm front and 25mm back back. I’m gutted that I didn’t take a side profile pic before they were fitted so I could have the same profile pic after, but in my opinion it now sits just how it should have from the factory. It may settle a little more, and I think it might. If it does, I’m happy, if it doesn’t I’m still happy. Ride It’s excellent. Yes it is firmer, but that’s to be expected. Is it teeth chattering and bone crunching - not at all. The PASM is still working as it should, with a very noticeable Difference when switching between PASM normal, and PASM sport. Smaller bumps, cat eyes uneven manhole covers are all soaked up nicely. I’m not feeling like I’m going to be scanning every molecule of the road surface though. It also still gets up my drive (helpful!) 🙂 Time taken on the job Given its a pretty low mileage it had never come apart underneath, so as expected seized bolts a plenty. That meant new drop links all round which upped the budget a fair amount, but I’m quite happy to replace some of those old parts anyway. I’m away for a couple of weeks which leaves me bereft and without my new toy! I will report back in a few weeks once she’s settled providing updated measurements, associated pics, and update on driving characteristics. So far so good though! Pics below - quarter shots are from the dealer pre upgrade. Side profile is after the drop - Day 1 though so may move.
  26. 1 point
    New ‘toys’ just arrived to keep me busy this wknd. really looking forward to feeling the difference with the slotted Sebro discs and Brembo sport pads vs drilled sebro discs and textar pads I’ve used the previous 3 years, especially at Silverstone next month 🏎🤪 the Brembo pads look so shiny-silver cool and are so beautifully packaged that I may not fit them at, rather I’ll just display them on the rear passenger shelf instead.... 🤩😁
  27. 1 point
    Nicely driven Pete, very smooth, you make it look easy 😉 be good to meet you there 👍🏻
  28. 1 point
    I’ve had my 987.1 S for just over 2 years with all the extras. I find the PASM when on is a little too hard on the 19” wheels and the sport button does make a little difference. I only use the car at weekends and was driving once a week to work (50 miles round trip) before C-19 kicked in. Mine did suffer from bore wear and had a complete engine rebuild including steel liners so will not suffer again. Got the car back just before lockdown so took ages to run in. But now done and had oil and filter changed. I must say she is a different car. Much more responsive and sounds amazing. Covered over 2000 miles with a permanent smile and no oil usage! My everyday car has hardly seen the road!
  29. 1 point
    I can't wait for this, always wanted to do the GP circuit. Here is my attempt at taming the national circuit last year. I'll see you there @Windymiller https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBqiVBuAfyw&t=21s
  30. 1 point
    Can't help with the workshop manual I'm afraid, but generally the Caymans, Boxsters and Carreras are all very similar in their service schedule requirements. To be honest, it's the wear and tear items you want to check really, suspension and radiators/condensers being the more costly items. – 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012 Porsche 911 (997.2) Carrera / Carrera S, 4, 4S (NOT for 997.1 versions neither for 997.2 GT3, GT2 and Turbo) – 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012 Porsche Boxster/Cayman normal and S models (987 and 987c) Oil Change Every 10,000 miles (15,000 km) or 1 year Minor Maintenance Checklist (after 20,000, 60,000, 100,000, 140,000 miles / 30,000, 90,000, 150,000, 210,000 kms) or 2, 6, 10, etc.. years: – Diagnosis system: Read fault memory; reset maintenance interval – Change engine oil and oil filter (Every 10,000 miles/15,000 km) – Vehicle underside and engine compartment: Visual inspection for leaks (oils and fluids) and abrasion (lines and hoses); Underbody panels: visual inspection for completeness, secure installation and damage – Coolant hoses: Check condition. Radiators and air intakes: Visual inspection for external debris and blockage – Coolant: Check level and antifreeze protection level – Pollen filter: Replace filter element – Brake system: Visual inspection of the brake pads and brake discs for wear (without removing wheels) – Brake hoses and lines: Visual inspection for damage, routing and corrosion – Drive shafts: Visual inspection of the dust boots for leaks and damage – Tires: Check condition and tire pressure – Check firewall and cabrio section body drains for debris – Check the door, lid locks and safety hook of the front lid for secure seating and function properly – Vehicle lighting: Check function. All headlights: Check setting – Horn: Check function – Windshield wiper/washer system, headlight washer: Check fluid level and nozzle settings (use winter antifreeze protection during winter months) – Check wiper blades – Battery: Check condition and electrolyte level – Electrical equipment, warning and indicator lights: Check function Additional Major Maintenance Checklist (after 40,000, 80,000, 120,000, 160,000 miles / 60,000, 120,000, 180,000, 240,000 kms) or 4, 8, 12 etc.. years: – Air filter: Replace filter element – Fuel lines and connections: Visual inspection for damage and leaks – Brake system: Visual inspection of the brake pads and brake discs for wear – Parking brake: Check free play of parking brake lever – Steering gear: Visual inspection of the dust boots for damage – Tie rod ends: Check play and dust boots – Axle joints: Check play; visual inspection of the dust boots for damage. Check the screw connections of the front and rear running gear adjustment points are secure – Exhaust system: Visual inspection for leaks and damage; check mounting and heat shields – Seat belts: Check function and condition Additional maintenance for spark plugs – Replace spark plugs every 40,000 miles (60,000 km) or every 4 years Additional maintenance for drive belt – Check drive belt at 40,000 miles (60,000 km) or every 4 years – Check drive belt at 100,000 miles (150,000 km) or every 10 years – Check drive belt at 160,000 miles (240,000 km) or every 16 years Additional maintenance for convertible top – Maintain and care for convertible top at 20,000 miles (30,000 km) or every 2 years Additional maintenance 60,000 miles (90,000 km) or every 6 years – Replace drive belt – Change all-wheel drive controller oil – 911 Carrera 4 – 4-wheel drive models – PDK transmission: Change clutch oil Additional maintenance every 120,000 miles (180,000 km) or 12 years – Change manual transmission oil – Change PDK transmission oil – Change front differential oil – 911 Carrera 4 – 4-wheel drive models only Every 2 years – Change brake fluid Every 4 years – Replace tire sealant After 4, then every 2 years – Check battery for the tire pressure monitoring system After 4, 8, 10, then every 2 years – Inspect airbag system – Assembly and running gear mounts: Visual inspection of all rubber/hydraulic mounts for damage Road Test Check – Check operation of remote control, front seats, foot brake and parking brake (also operating travel), engine, clutch, steering, transmission, ParkAssist, automatic speed control, PSM switch, PASM switch, Sport switch, heater, air-conditioning system and instruments. – Visual inspection for leaks of Oils and other fluids.
  31. 1 point
    Ok Beanoir will do, but prob won’t manage till tomorrow. Trust pilot reviews have also really worried me.
  32. 1 point
    I had a rough idling / engine dieing problem, was a sod to diagnose, and like you thought the MAF may be the issue, but it turned out to be the fuel pump. New pump installed and all sorted.
  33. 1 point
    Thought number 2: Maybe an ECU reset/adaption initiation would be a good idea if you haven’t already tried it. Worth trying anything that doesn’t cost money! 1. Switch ignition on for 1 minute without starting the engine up. Don’t touch throttle of anything in this procedure 2. switch of ignition and leave for at least 10 seconds
  34. 1 point
    I recently bought a 30 year old Fiat Ducato camper van and have had a great time doing it up over the last few months, but that's because I've been able to get to all the oily bits very easily (can almost climb into the engine bay) and I'm not fussed if it goes wrong and I have to use a hammer to fix it. The Cayman on the other hand, which I'm much more precious about, I leave anything that looks complicated or needs it to go up on stands to my local mechanic.
  35. 1 point
    You can check the MAF readings on the free version of the Torque app. I can't remember what the reading should be for the different engines (maybe something like 14m/s at idle) but it'll be kind of obvious if it isn't working (zero reading or wrong m/s readings). Torque will also tell you the codes
  36. 1 point
    Finally took my trunk lid apart (I’ll post a ‘how to’ guide when I reassemble it all) and think I’ve found the issue. the counter balance mass has a split in the rubber ‘flange’ on it, and I note there is now an ‘mk 3’ version of it so probably an improved version. see photo for split - I’m assuming this would make it ‘wobble’ more over smaller frequency bumps... 🤔🤷‍♂️
  37. 1 point
    Great idea - ECP is <3miles from me 👍🏻
  38. 1 point
    Totally Porsche unrelated, but, since the age of 3 I've been designing Lego MOCs (stands for My Own Creations), mostly heavy machinery, cranes, cars, diggers, lorries and so on. I did work on the development of the Official Lego Defender launched last year and I've taken part of world contests with best result being 3d! Here a link of my creations (well, of the latest years at least) and attached some photos of current projects! My creations are always full remote controlled, close to real suspensions, differentials, gearboxes and including pneumatic, and usually have around 3000-7000 parts! Hope you enjoy them 😀 https://bricksafe.com/pages/TheItalianBrick Cheers, Andrea
  39. 1 point
    This is the front 12mm spacer 45mm studs, I have 5mm spacers on the rear, wont let me upload a picture but you get the idea. hope this helps.
  40. 1 point
    I got the 45mm kit when Design 911 were selling them, another option may be this in 45mm; https://www.stuttgart-classica.co.uk/water-cooledparts/titanium-studs To be honest 45mm is too long even with 15mm spacers there is still a fair bit of stud showing beyond the bolt, assume you have fatter spacers. They do make it much easier to get the wheels off and one.
  41. 1 point
    I recently had a ball-ache fitting SS braided lines to my CS. The 10mm flare nuts were seized solid due to galvanic corrosion? I've now got a professional Kunifer pipe flaring kit so I can make up my own DIN metric hardlines & good quality 10mm x 1mm flare nuts etc. If anyone needs some making give me a shout as you'll be shocked how much the pre-made ones are from design911 or OPC 😁 Top tip: Dab some silicone grease sparingly on the thread fittings & it'll prevent galvanic corrosion...
  42. 1 point
    It's considerably more expensive to fit an upgraded HU if you have the full Bose setup as standard as the connector harness is much more expensive than fitting to a non full Bose spec Porsche...
  43. 1 point
    If by any chance you do need a coolant top up - distilled water is ok for small amounts. But obviously the 'proper' antifreeze is best. And of course with a Porsche....the most expensive option also. When i last needed some; the official Porsche pink coolant was £18 a litre (For pre-mixed i think). And more than that i didn't / don't have an official Porsche centre anywhere near me so would have needed to add postage ontop too. So after some googling i discovered this is the exact same stuff that Porsche have re-bottled for them by Total: (This is the concentrate too - not pre-mix) which i managed to get locally 😎 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Total-Glacelf-Auto-Supra-Concentrated-Antifreeze-Coolant-1-Litre/151580156333?epid=249676760&hash=item234ae1a1ad:g:TLEAAOSwHNxaAXKs
  44. 1 point
    A guy on one of the Facebook groups (Jay Shoolman - Based in the USA - so prices in Dollars) also makes these. And has offered us the following price breaks for quantity: 5 pairs $25 (£19.75) each plus shipping, 10 pairs $22 (£17.35) plus shipping . I can supply for 987.1 only. My rings are in one piece. ***I've now asked him about shipping costs 🙂
  45. 1 point
    Any wear sensor would be fine. Or just do what I did and leave them off 😁 IMO the wear sensors are ridiculously flimsy and a poor design. Checking the pads for wear visually takes about 1secound looking through the wheels 👍
  46. 1 point
    Lego is a HUGE part of my hosehold and my kids (5 and 3) love building and creating new things from it. I will never get bored of the brick!
  47. 1 point
    Hi Craig, The Black edition is a special based on the S model. Thats the very last of the 987 models, so the price is right up against 981 models there. Its 'all the money' for that I think. I think I would be getting a 981 as its a more modern car, better quality, with more modern interior, but you still have the flat 6 noises. If you look at an independent dealer like Cridfords for example, they have a load of 981 2.7 for a bit less or more than £30k, 2014 cars. Rich
  48. 1 point
    So we're aligned; buy a decent S, mod it up to your hearts/budget's content, and have a hoot!
  49. 1 point
    Hi, Just as an update to this, I see that the cheaper ones are now back on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/722948880/porsche-boxster-cayman-987-headlight Perhaps we could do a group buy and split the shipping and/or get a bulk discount. I've emailed the company to see what they say but if thosoe interested could reply (so I can gauge numbers) that would be great. Leo
  50. 1 point
    The OEM short shift kit was the first modification I had made to my 987.1 and remain as pleased with it 6 years later as I was the first time I drove with it. jD

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