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Showing content with the highest reputation since 29/02/20 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Once again I was able to attend the RS Day. This year, like last, I was in my CR having previously attended in my 964. My R is relatively standard, having had (previous owner) GT3 brake master cylinder upgrade, to which I've also upgraded the brake lines (HEL performance), pads (Pagid RS29) and discs all round (Girodisc ), oh and Michelin Cup2 tyres. Rest of the car is stock. In car videos of the day can be found on my channel, but here's my Fastest lap of the day and being chased by my good friend TDT in his GT4 Any comments or questions let me know.
  2. 3 points
    Some sellers / places / people claim a bit more noise from various tail-pipe options for Porsche's - when fitting onto an all original system / headers. Having had various aftermarket systems (resonated mostly) / and or manifolds on different cars - and knowing how subtle the difference can be [Yes,yes: And we all know how obnoxiously loud you can make a vehicle too] - i'd be really surprised if "just" a set of twin Sports tailpipes made any real difference to the sound; either way...... I'm with you on the looks though ! I 'presume' my 2.7 would have come with a single exit as standard. Someone had fitted sports pipes to mine when i got it. But as they were tatty- i've since purchased a new Stainless Steel 'Cup Racer' tail-piece.....
  3. 2 points
    Whilst my 987CS was having service works done at Porschacare I also had the wheels fully stripped, refurbished, repainted and g-techiq C5 coated by David at Daytona Coachworx in Todd’s Green near stevenage - they always seem to have Porches in and work closely with Porschacare just opposite them (see my other posts about Porschacare 👍🏻). https://www.daytonacoachworx.co.uk/ the wheels (19” Carrera S) were previously Basalt black faced, with the ‘primer grey’ internal barrels and a silver rim all around the outer circumference. I wanted the same external face look, but wanted the internal barrels painting too as I’ve never liked the original ‘half n half’ look with the barrels grey 🤔 Daytona also prepared treated and ‘spot repaired’ the lower leading edges of both sills and front wheel arches where ‘gravel rash’ had stripped the paint away to expose bare metal. Thought I’d get this done to prevent any corrosion getting into the sills. They also tidied up a few minor stone chips on the wings and re clear-coated them. Although only minor areas of work it seems to have transformed her into looking like new again - the wheels in particular look fantastic 😍👍🏻 it was a tyres off rims job obviously and they have been perfectly re-balanced (something that I’m a bit pedantic about) with not even the slightest of ‘shimmy’ at any speed up to 140mph so far. David kept me informed with photos throughout the works and is highly knowledgeable about paint work. When I collected the car he took me round her pointing out a number of ‘imperfections’ - eg the left and right front wings are different shades of Carrara white (apparently it can be applied with either a yellow or red base to the white - who knew... 🤷‍♂️), and the front bumper paint is ‘flatter’ than the rest indicating its had some (not greatest quality) respraying previously. I’ve never noticed in 3 years, but once pointed out I was like ‘oh yes, now I see... ‘🧐🤔😯 total cost of works was around £1000 later this year I’d like the front bumper and bonnet resprayed as it is heavily chipped from track days etc and I will definitely return to Daytona. in summary then - David at Daytona did a fantastic job on my car and wheels and I would absolutely recommend them. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
  4. 2 points
    This is the video that convinced me to go for the Carnewal GT a few years ago:
  5. 2 points
    Cotswold Porsche changed mine last year at 10 years/54k miles for Millers synthetic 75w/90. They said what came out was pretty black and horrible. Has helped smooth the change a bit. Although the 6 speed Getrag in mine is a bit notchy anyway.
  6. 1 point
    I noticed Craig had posted on Facebook last week, thought I'd update the thread here. Its no real surprise given the current predicament the world ends itself in that Simply Porsche has been postponed this year. A great shame as I think it's an event we all look forward to every year. Let's hope that it can rearranged for a date later in the year.
  7. 1 point
    Ok time for a quick update on this - nice weather has meant I've finally had a chance to get a good look at the adjustors at the bottom of the door. There are 4 rubber grommets which easily prise off at the bottom of each door. The 2 nearest to the middle each give easy access to a 10mm (I think) bolt. If you loosen off each of these bolts, you can move them left or right (or in and out depending on how you look at it!) to adjust the rake of the window, front and back, so its closer or further away from the frame. You can easily see the whole window glass moving as you do it. I adjusted mine so that when closed the window was pressed almost as far as it would allow against the window frame, ensuring a very tight seal. Re-tighten the bolt and replace the grommets and then test run. Mine used to squeal quite badly at 45mph ish. Took it down the motorway at over 70 and no more noise. Very happy! Hope this helps someone👍
  8. 1 point
    Hi Craig, Re coffin arms - I’ve used the MEYLE brand on the rear of my CS - they are high quality product (not cheap Chinese after market copy) and the Centre bushes in the are actually a firmer ‘shore’ rating than the original Porsche item so will stand up well to your spirited use 😉 hope you don’t catch the zombie plague 🧟🧟‍♀️🧟‍♂️😱😷
  9. 1 point
    just thought i'd share my recent experience with you all. So the story is i have a 2010 cayman S with 72k on the clock. I've owned her for 4 years and put 40k miles on her with everyday driving, a few track days inc 2 trips to the Nurburgring where i drove approx 12 laps. So as a matter of precaution i decided to change the shifter cables just in case (like many horror stories on forums) the fail on me away from home. I decided on changing for OEM Porsche cables which they now recommend you change 2 brackets they've now modified to eliminate any possible failures. (£680 all in). so when i brought the old cables home i decided to cut them open to see how they'd worn over the last 10 years & 72k miles. So heres a video on my YT channel to show condition. please ignore my slippers as i recorded it on a sunday morning while pottering about in my garage.
  10. 1 point
    My 987 CS went to Matt at Porschacare in Todd’s Green bear Stevenage for some works in the past 2 weeks and has come back feeling like a new car! As ever Matt gave an excellent level of customer service, from providing me with a detailed parts and labour estimate prior to commencing the work, keeping me informed throughout the works and talking me through everything he’s done when I collected the car. His pricing is very reasonable and his workmanship is highly diligent as he is such a perfectionist in what he does. It’s a 100 mile round trip for me to drop-off / collect and costs me >£40 in train, tube and taxi fares each way to/from him, but his level of service is worth the additional cost in my opinion. The works I had done were: • engine oil and filter change (millers nanodrive racetech 5W-40) • gearbox oil change (redline 75w-90) • front coolant pipes & hoses replacement • BMC performance air filter fitted • all suspension and brakes condition visual inspection • Brake fluid change (motul RBF 600) • GT3 TRW master brake cylinder fitment (i supplied pre-purchased part) • full geometry alignment to ‘fast road’ setting 12 hours of labour Total cost was around £1500 and within a few pounds of the original estimate. I appreciate it might be psychosomatic on my part having just spent money on the work, but when I collected the car and drove away (after it had warmed up) when I gave it some beans on the way home the car felt quicker in its acceleration response pick up - could just changing the filter really make a difference to performance without changing anything else? 🤷‍♂️ I wasn’t expecting any ‘improvement’, I did it mainly for the better filter quality and maybe some extra induction noise (which I think it does give 😁👍🏻). And the GT3 MBC feels so much better. There’s a distinct improvement in pedal firmness (Might also be down to the Motul RBF too, but I was running ATE Typ 200 fluid previously) and I find the initial brake bite point is now achieved with less pedal travel first - which I am also finding makes heel & toe rev-matching easier 👍🏻 obviously the real test of the GT3 MBC and motul fluid will be on a track day. So, short summary - another BIG THUMBS UP for Matt at Porschacare 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😁
  11. 1 point
    Concur with Woodhouse. Top mounts are knackered after 10 years, they squeak as they wear, also bump stops will be breaking up.
  12. 1 point
    Hello all, I'm booked in to have my exhaust modified by a company called PCW exhausts. I was wondering if anyone had had it done by them and were they happy with the result? I have found one video online of a Cayman that has had this mod done, plenty of BMWs and a few 911s. Ideally wanted some feedback from a Cayman owner who has had it done or has a car that has had it done previously. Thanks in advance
  13. 1 point
    Thanks for the info Joe. Had the exhaust done by PCW - although have not been able to drive it due to weather conditions much. The exhaust definitely improves the overall driving experience and i love the fact the car is still standard. Its not too loud either, just nice when you open up the throttle. Cold start sounds great, especially when i start her up from cold in the garage Absolutely no drone either. I highly recommend PCW to anyone who maybe on the fence. Just tried to upload the cold start video but even when condensed the clip is 25x too big to add as an attachment.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Gutted I missed it this year 🙁 It sold out so quickly last year 😮 love the in-car/in-car footage of Tyrone chasing you down (though never quite catching you - the 987R giving a 981GT4 a good run for its money 😉) 👍🏻
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Wise words and great advice. Car shouldn't feel light at speed. If anything they get more planted with no vibration. Try tyres and a good balance and then maybe a 4 wheel alignment.
  18. 1 point
    For 3 litres of the Motul 300 - I paid £44 odd from Opie oils via eBay Craig - which had 15% off and free delivery......(Which turned out to be Next Day via FedEx). On the official Opie site - I believe it was £50 and delivery was extra......... ****I Googled for 5 mins and that was about the best price I found. And of course a proven seller 😎 Good luck !
  19. 1 point
    After 85k miles and 12 years thought it was time to change the gear box oil. Got 3 litres of Motul Gear 300 online for £39 and it took my local mechanic an hour to do, so all in less than £100. The gear shift action is definitely improved, much smoother action and less notchy. Would definitely recommend if you haven't had it done already.
  20. 1 point
    So was the oil level showing at the maximum fill line last time you used it / last time you checked ? How much have you needed to add....and to get you back to what level ? ***Just trying to get an idea of exact useage versus exact mileage........... Have you checked your coolant level / colour / condition ?
  21. 1 point
    How many miles have you put on this car total ? How much oil did you need to add to bring it up to full ? You know you are over due for an oil change ?
  22. 1 point
    Get the engine cover off and have a look. https://guides.drivediy.com/Guide/Porsche+Cayman+987+Engine+Cover+Removal/37 Can be the coolant expansion tank cap, they do fail. Are fairly cheap even from a Porsche dealer.
  23. 1 point
    Waterpump would be a good place to look
  24. 1 point
    Is it an exhaust bypass? If so it would be the same as the bypass I had done on my 2.9. Gives it a nice little burble, nothing excessive, and tbh you don't notice it that much unless you have the windows open- you have a whole engine behind your head/between you and the exhaust after all! It's quite loud on startup while the car warms up, especially in the cold. I don't think the neighbours like it but it settles down as soon as the revs drop after it's warmed up!
  25. 1 point
    Sorry to be a dick (I've only just seen this post) but an OPC is the cheapest place for these. They cost ~£3 inc VAT and they will often post out smalll parts for free. Likewise, if you ever want GT3 brake ducts, buy them from OPC. People on eBay are charging £20+ whereas OPC will sell them to you for £2.96 each. For many things, a Porsche main dealer will be super expensive but for small parts, trim pieces etc they are often the cheapest.
  26. 1 point
    I am not sure to change the high beams to be honest. For the reasons you said. If I really have to I would go for the best halogen I can find, otherwise I think I swill stick with the stock ones. I mean, I don't use high beams so often... Futhermore I am not sure I want to try the thrill to push the plastic in order to fit the LED's ones 🙂 Thanks for the update
  27. 1 point
    Most owners use Carnewal in Belgium, they do an exchange deal on the rear silencer. Also be aware of the noise level, especially if you want to track your car, a lot of tracks have noise limits.
  28. 1 point
    Cheers for the eBay link. There are lots of YouTube vids showing how to do the alignment also:
  29. 1 point
    So I got the dipped beams fitted tonight, but ran out of time for the fog lights. Those will have to wait till tomorrow. As everybody else has said the dipped beam H7's are amazing. Super happy with these, and glad I bought the LED's over Osram Nightbreakers. @Cito Regards H9 high beam whiter halogens, I have not ordered them yet. I am still deciding between two, one on ebay one on Amazon. Once I order I will take pictures and past link. Will not share link until I have ordered as would not want to mislead people.
  30. 1 point
    I have seen a few too with proves varying from 250 to 600. This is the link: I dont know of the video does the sound justice.. but I was expecting a little more noise. I had a similar mod done to my s2000 and it sounded good. Once I decatted it sounded fantastic! But i dont want to decat the Porsche lol
  31. 1 point
    I've just bought one. Cheapest i could find was here for your info: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porsche-997-Carrera-987-Boxster-Cayman-Shifter-Bridge-Lock-Installation-Tool/192892873334?hash=item2ce94faa76:g:rGwAAOSwgYlcuHhx ***Unless you’re already buying something from Design911 - who sell them for £3. But their postage is £11 something 😯
  32. 1 point
    Might have to think about getting the green alignment tool next to check the gear linkage alignment. Beyond that its changing the cables I guess.
  33. 1 point
    Hi, I think the dipped beam can be done in 30 minutes. Is a very easy replacement...and the difference is massive! No doubt. Also, I did pass the MOT without any problem. Super reccomanded. For the fog lights is going to take a bit more as you have to be more careful to don't brake the dents in the ligts panel. Please, can you post the link for the whiter halogen for the high beam? Do it and you will not regret! 🙂
  34. 1 point
    Is you friends Merc n/a, Turbo Diesel, Turbo Petrol or.....? My Dads Turbo Petrol Merc gained 70bhp and over 100lb-ft from a simple re-map. Not amounts you'll be gaining on a n/a 987 ! More about gaining a few bhp (Often fairly high up the rev-range mind....), some low down torque / added driveabilitly, some smoothing out of the power-curve, better throttle response.......and possibly more MPG as Craig mentioned. I had a remap done on my 987. And whilst not revolutionary - i felt it was worth what i paid and i can notice the improvements from my seat-of-the-butt Dyno 😁
  35. 1 point
    I would not use Vaseline on the rubber seals as it will break down the rubber long term. You really need a Silicon based lubricant to keep them pliable and to stop them cracking up. Wurth make a very good one in aerosol form, it also has the added bonus of the seals on doors and rear hatch sticking in winter.
  36. 1 point
    I have 3 or 4 bolts on the heatshields that have rusted through. If you give the boot floor a good thump you'll be able to replicate the rattle it makes. The Cayman boot seems to bounce the noise around. My top tip is to cut out your own oversized "washers" from an old coke/beer can. They'll conform to the shape of the shield and being aluminium you shouldn't have too many issues with them. Be careful removing the nuts though... 2 out of the 4 studs snapped on removal. One had a convient hole next to it which I used to secure it and the other has just enough thread to get a new nut on... I'm just waiting for some M4 nuts to arrive!
  37. 1 point
    Guys, Thanks for the replies. I need to update the thread with progress (such as there is!) - I've removed the rear light covers and tightened up the nuts on the rear lights. Neither were very loose so I doubt it is this. - One of the rear light covers was missing the small white plastic 'hats' on one of the retaining pins. Very trivial but Porsche would have put them there for a reason. I substituted wrapping the retaining pin with some plastic tape to stop any movement there may have been - I removed the rear boot lid struts as apparently they can rattle. (An aside but that boot lid is fearsomely heavy without the struts to help lift it!) And ... it still rattled. Although it sounds like a different rattle, and more of a rattle than a flutter (which is how I described it before). I don't know what to conclude from this other than that the car sounds like a mobile percussion orchestra these days and I know I need to change one of the front tie rods (parts on order). I think I'll therefore wait until the tie rods are done before getting too heavy with the boot rattle. Thanks for the suggestions of it being the heat shield. This sounds very promising and I'll have a closer look next time I am under the car. Thanks for your help. I'll keep this thread updated.
  38. 1 point
    Hi Graham, Most of us who have gone the "Tune"/remap route, have done it for performance gains in the torque/power arena, and typically have improved the "breathing" of our Crocs beforehand, particularly for NA cars (Turbo cars can see material increased just with a remap alone). Personally I didn't note the economy performance of my CS before then after the remap etc. Remaps can be created to address different parameters in theory (economy, torque and power), as I understand many remaps will produce a more efficient engine which in turn can be more economical at non-warp speeds.....but the Porsche lumps are designed for torque/power rather than excellent MPG (whereas my daily commuter turbo diesel remap produced a little more power, a truckload more torque, and materially better economy). So best be realistic about what you can expect on that front from your Cayman. More importantly, in theory any remap would void your warranty if detected! There are remap offerings which are supposedly either a) undetectable by the dealer (this is debated hotly!), and/or b) allow you to reset back to factor settings when you'er about to have a service etc, and go back to your "tuned" setting thereafter. I suspect a lot of people wait until they're out of warranty
  39. 1 point
    You can click on Menu /Account / Manage Followed Content
  40. 0 points
    I've just had some work done on my 2007 'S' relating to leaks. In my case it was more a preventative step. during the service my Local guy found evidence of coolant leaks at the oil cooler seal and at a water jacket where there was signs of pink fluid leak and as it turned out a small crack. I think these were only visible from underneath. The parts replaced were :- 99970754740 and 99970738940 for the seal and 98710650804for the jacket. Bad news is that although the latter part is a complicated moulding and cost £145 , incl VAT the labour was 6.5 hours total I just felt happier getting it done Eddie E18 CAY

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