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Showing content with the highest reputation since 18/09/19 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I had my 2.7 mapped, although I'm also running a Tubi exhaust and intakes. The map really transformed my car, I was very sceptical before getting it done but the difference was remarkable. My car with those mods sits door to door with my mates S now and I don't have to worry about the pistons smashing the bores to pieces 😂 win win
  2. 3 points
    I’m actually looking forward to the 987 models approaching / entering a near ‘classic’ status - though I guess that won’t even start to be the case for another 5-10 years really 🤔 i think the 987 / 997 present such a contradiction, ie at ~10yo they still feel highly capable and ‘undated’ compared to most other modern cars. Yet, compared to 981/991, and 982/992, they feel positively simplistic and ‘unsynthesised’ / analogue in a sense that older classics seem to evoke. Such is the pace of development of Stuttgart’s finest ponies... 😉 Just one (of many) reason(s) I love the cayman 😍😁👍🏻
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
    Well, I might as well join this forum too. One can never have too many to follow.... I suspect that probably pretty much the same crew cohabit PH, PCGB and here? So, why did I buy my R? I have a 1988 3.2 Carrera that is currently undergoing restoration work. Driving that for the last 18 years has given me a taste for uncomplicated driving machines. I've been through a few more modern performance cars, but none has ever matched the purity and joy of the 911 as a driving machine. My initial criteria: 1: Must be manual. I do understand that PDK is much faster than me and makes the car faster too, but I want to decide when and how to change gear. I know, I know, I'm a dinosaur. 2: Purest available driving experience in a reasonably modern Porsche (that means post 2008 due to the IMS bearing issues etc). 3: No interest in toys/music/comforts. I have all that in my family car. I strongly considered the following: 997.2 3.6 Carrera 2. I think it is underrated; living in the shadow of the 997 S. I have driven one and found it pleasingly communicative and involving, with an engine I prefer to the 3.8. A very close call vs. the R. 981 GTS. A delightful car, but somehow less feel and soul (for me!) than a 987 R. A little too contrived in terms of exhaust sound, EPAS, electric handbrake are all minuses in the dinosaur handbook. 981 GT4: Prices have been dropping fast, but I was only slightly tempted. It's a great car, but a bit too much of an aggressive track weapon for me. 987 R: I first drove a PDK (thanks to Porsche Tewkesbury), and as soon as I did, i knew I had to have a manual. My car miraculously appeared privately for sale within 10 miles of my home. Deal done! I love it; it's one hell of a car for the money. It's one hell of a car for any money!
  5. 2 points
    You get used to it fairly quickly to be honest Pete, and I never bothered to connect the remote switch as a consequence. That said you can have the switch connected and change modes as easily as you would with SC or the like. I’d really recommend trying one though if you want to spruce the car up 👍🏻
  6. 2 points
    Interesting and differing views. Plainly obvious this topic (Mapping especially) divides opinion....... The more you scour the internet for normally aspirated Porsche mapping info / reviews etc - three things become very clear: 1. The whole mapping topic (Especially in terms of a stock / near stock car and the possible improvements) is as Craig said initially: "Hotly debated" ! 2. Most of those who dispute / counter argue or flatly refuse to believe either the mappers claims or even the un-scientific 'feelings' from owners of newly mapped cars haven't taken the jump / experienced the difference; or been in a well mapped car before and after themselves. 3. The absolute vast majority of people who do go for it (In terms of live, real-time and completely individualised mapping) are ecstatic with the real-World results irrespective of what the pure numbers and to some degree; even what the before and after graphs show ***My last car made 186bhp pre-mapping - and 199.8bhp after (7.5% increase). And Torque was supposedly much the same. More to the point though it went from feeling like a fairly highly strung 2 litre 16v; to near on a Turbo Diesel at times. For example the pull from say 40mph in 6th gear was improved absolutely hugely. So from my one experience of live mapping - i'm definitely in Camp 3 so far 🙂
  7. 2 points
    dynoremaps 21 bhp and 18 nm So I’m really pleased with the results the acceleration is smoother and constant with no flat spots I’m going to leave the throttle booster for now but I’m not ruling it out in the future scott
  8. 2 points
    You have a problem/have too much spare time on your hands (still) and require professional help/another hobby/both. But seeing as we're on a topic and I have some spare time..... The Sprint Booster as I understand does the same jobbie as the "Sport" button on sports chrono...basically makes the throttle more responsive to smaller inputs from your foot ...so great for when learning to heel/toe etc....but no change to engine outputs etc. I honestly only use it when on track (same with PASM), so you shouldn't don't feel like you're missing out on anything tremendous. Remap....hotly debated. There's a few past strings on this if you search (I've shared my own experience with my CS and DMS, which was positive). Short answer is, take care of engine breathing 1st (exhaust/air filter etc) before considering a remap, and even then, don't expect anything more than 10-15% increase in bhp / torque .....typically you'll only notice the gains when giving it some beans (which I tend to do, hence happy!), mid-upper rev range. Your 2.7 engine is a lovely piece of machinery, sounds great as standard, and is I'm sure already entertaining the panites off of you as is. If so, leave her as she is and enjoy.
  9. 2 points
    Exactly that, preparing the paint properly is the tricky bit. The thread quoted for example, that process is just incorrect and timescale incorrect also for a paint correction and coating application. I'm a full time professional and couldn't been a complete a brand new untouched car in that timeframe lol Over the counter ceramics don't hold a candle to professional only products either. It really is something to pay a professional if you really want to see the benefits. Also I'm not touting for work here, I'm based in NI, so this is just my honest professional advice.
  10. 2 points
    I was furiously panic searching the index in my manual muttering “Clouds! I haven’t done my clouds?! Maybe it’s had the clouds done already. Oh how could I have missed this?” 😉😄
  11. 2 points
    Don't know how fluids came out as clouds. We can't edit?
  12. 2 points
    I've been running the BMC filter for almost a year now, and have been very happy with it. The car has just had a major service, inc plugs. The BMC filter was thoroughly cleaned and put back in, looks brand new. There are a few of us with the IPD plenum, once remapped it does make a huge difference to the car. The car now outperforms a PDK 981 S in a straight line, before it was miles behind (mine is a manual).
  13. 2 points
    Mahoosive whale tail and some hand painted flames down the side?
  14. 2 points
    So I finally bit the bullet and got my brake calipers resprayed at Monster Wraps in Southampton. Colour choice is perhaps a bit marmite, but I wanted to stick with an OEM colour that wasn't black or red, and I thought speed yellow would suit a dark coloured car. Have to say that I'm really pleased with the results, and the finish is excellent, really does look like new. Some before and after shots below. Would certainly recommend Monster Wraps if you're thinking of getting this done, a very professional and friendly outfit.
  15. 2 points
    Just got back from Carnewal today. Had the GT exhaust fitted after much research. MOT is due in Oct but Carnewal exhaust is not a detrimental move in terms of emissions and I have not heard of anything untoward. Out of interest he has done over 1300 993 exhausts and so very much knows everything you need to know about exhausts and is a huge enthusiast. If anyone out there is thinking of doing the exchange it is well worth it. I took my 14yo son to ride shotgun (getting him off his iPhone was a major achievement!!!) and we set off at 3am, caught the 06.20 shuttle from F'stone to Calais and 35 mins later we were on our way. The Satnav took us on the Northern route (towards Ghent etc) and then down to Maarkedal in just under 2 hours. Schoolboy error on my behalf I forgot to read Gert's comprehensive email and map and paid for it by relying on the Satnav which tried to take us down a few no entries and a circuitous route around Maarkedal but we eventually found Carrnewal (Gert, you need a larger sign!!!) and got to our appointment in time. We met Gert and received a great welcome and drove the car into Carnewal's large workshop adorned with Gert's 993's (which brought back pleasant memories!). He then showed us through to the waiting area, replete with merchandise(all high end stuff here, no cheap Chinese imports) and said he'd only be an hour. His charming wife brought out a jug off coffee and cakes and chocolates which were very much welcomed and within an hour we heard the rumbling and growl of the Carnewal GT exhaust. What an amazing sound. There are many reviews on YT about this exhaust but I have to say it is no comparison to listening to experiencing it live. I went for the twin tail piece as well and the car has been transformed. Gert told us it would need about 100 miles to really bring out the best of the conversion as the car's computer would adjust to its new exhaust. We took the route via Lille back to Calais which was a more straight forward run with much better roads and as the miles went by we could here the incremental difference from the new exhaust. Again, less than 2 hours and we were boarding an earlier train back to UK and never stopped smiling. In summary, if you are thinking of upgrading your exhaust then this has to be the way to go. Gert is also an absolute pleasure to deal with and to quote a well known beer advert. If Carlsberg did garages they'd probably look like this!!! A major US sports brand once said 'Just do it!'. I could not agree more. Some stills here but have short clip of exhaust sound which I'll have to post separately. Get after it folks. Stu
  16. 1 point
    Get the socket that fits the filter cap and it's much easier to remove with an extension or two to give your ratchet room.
  17. 1 point
    Have you checked after the engine is up to temperature what the reading is? These dials are a nightmare mine is super sensitive I was convinced my garage was completely flat until I got my Cayman!!
  18. 1 point
    Just back from a trip to Spa and the Ring. I'll put a more detailed post up about the trip, but Spa is EPIC. Enjoy!
  19. 1 point
    Thanks! I was very happy with how the video came out, however I did need to work on it in post production. I've been researching how to improve the quality of video coming out of my GoPro for a while and this was the first attempt, and it's actually a pretty easy process. The camera is a GoPro 6 black, set to 1080p and 30fps. EV is dialled to -1.5 due to the bright sunshine. Then I used a programme called Davinchi resolve and followed this Youtube video (below) to produce the results you see. It's super quick to do once you get the hang of it.
  20. 1 point
    Agreed, I'd be interested to know what equipment was used, its really good quality!
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    No guard = American Chopper stylee 🤣 ***I've seen a couple of horrendous accidents happen this way. One nearly life changing. Anyone who use's one frequently has done this at some point. But as mentioned - proceed with caution. Good luck to the OP BTW.
  23. 1 point
    It's a pig of a job if the bolts have corroded to the arm. Before attempting it take a wheel off and undo the sub frame nut. If the bolt comes out then happy days, if not it will need to be cut out, and it's difficult to get the tools in there to do it. I've done it with a reciprocating sw and 4" battery disk cutter. The disk cutter is much faster method but you need to be well versed in using it because you have to take the guard off to get the blade in there, not to mention not slipping and cutting through something you weren't supposed to! 🤣
  24. 1 point
    IMO if the worst case scenario is that you've put in an extra 500ml, then it really isn't worth worrying about.
  25. 1 point
    It does exactly as they say, yes. You can run the switch connected along the top of the pedal box, hidden underneath the centre console and mount the switch in your ash tray, hidden from view but easily accessible.
  26. 1 point
    😉 I'm serious about the booster though. I use one and it's an immediate change, well worth the money.
  27. 1 point
    Hi Kevin, welcome to the OC and congrats! The sticker under the boot lid will have all of the 3 digit option codes on the build spec for the car from factory including the paint code and interior colour. You will (or should) also find this sticker replicated in the front cover of the vehicle's service book. In club library we have all of the 3 digit option codes listed in the back of the buyers guides with an explanation of what they are. You'll find them here for you car which is a Gen1 Cayman
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    You should be able to knock them out from behind the wheel. Sounds like they’ve not been lubricated, use some grease when you put them back 👍🏻
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Maybe try a hot air gun very carefully and then use a mini pry bar to lever the stuck part out. Good luck 🤞
  32. 1 point
    ##Indeed it is, but the advice you received sounds on point. Air filters (BMC and K&N pop up frequently) add a bit of induction noise, in theory allow a lower restriction flow of air, so might contribute 1 or 2 ponies worth only....a cheap mod at any rate. The breathing piece is key...I went for the standard Carnewal cat back set up (cost effective when you send your old system back and very popular amongst Caymanista's), others go the whole hog with headers, full exhausts upgrade if they have ££ to burn. As for re-maps, there's a few reputable suppliers out there. I've had my car on 2 dyno's since my map ; at DMS (where the map was done) then later on at Regal Motorsport (both down here on the coast), both returned near as dammit identical numbers (310-313hp at the wheels)....bear in mind that stock engines are rated officially at 295 at the flywheel for the gen 1, but as with many things Porsche, the "official" numbers can be slightly conservative (anecdotally I heard that actual outputs can vary by up to 3 or 4%...normally up rather than down).
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    LMAO ! 👍 And what you have my friend; is an uncanny ability to see deep into a man's being; from nothing more than a few scribbled ramblings on a car forum.... Appreciate your thoughts and experience. It's NOT about chasing power / speed. If i wanted that i'd have spent £2k on a 200mph Suzuki Hayabusa, or at the very least have bought an 'S' model Cayman as a start point. I'd be secretly surprised / pleased if Zensport for example - got close to the 8% bhp + torque gains they claim are likely. It's more about making it more sprightly, less lethargic, a bit more eager and responsive; out on the road and in the real World at sane speeds. You used the word "tremendous" when describing Sport button and comparing it to a Sprint Booster as such. As in: not a tremendous difference. For a few hundred pounds i think anything that's at least genuinely noticeable from the seat of your pants would be all you could expect. I well realise as far as 'tuning' goes; that's a truly nominal amount. And tremendous isn't a word i'd expect to be using to describe the difference in either modification. **My itch hasn't disappeared yet....... 😉
  35. 1 point
    @Dougle_turbo... Think this is his link 😉 https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/porsche/cayman/awesome-improved-porsche-cayman-24v-s-2007/10058339
  36. 1 point
    Finally got the install done and it took a lot of swearing... The problem is the Connects2 PO51 harness is mainly Plug and Play with everything fitting together as it should but they have ignored a switched feed on the cars power block - thin red/black wire. This need connected into the switched feed (red wire) going into the Most Interface. Took ages to figure that out, but no need for extra power from fuse box or anything like that. Apart from that other gotchas are the A pillar is length of car and full of clips that break for DAB Aerial. All goes back much easier than it comes out though. The painted interior plastic is easy to mark, need to be really careful. The Fascia also needs a couple of extra screws In the sides to hold in place at the bottom. Anyway all done and working now, pic of wire for reference and final install.
  37. 1 point
    She’s a looker for sure 😍 - great colour combo, lucky man 👍🏻 welcome to the COC matey (unfortunate but affectionately used acronym... 😉)
  38. 1 point
    I'm running BMC filter, Carnewal GT exhaust (back box only), IPD comp plenum, GT3 throttle body, DMS live remap. I'd love to replace the cats, but I'd be too loud on track. I'd say my gains are even throughout the power band. If you do decide to do the plenum then I think you should upgrade the throttle body as well. The exhaust note is glorious once it's unleashed a bit.
  39. 1 point
    Just plenum and a remap with no other hardware change? I've asked around and several parties, one of which sells the plenum has advised that plenum being the only hardware change won't make any power. Right now, I'm leaning towards 200 cell cats and fvd tune for a bit more power and sound. May likely just end up with a tune though as what I'm reading about cats is the power is at the really high end of the range and I don't track. I'm not past 5500 for daily use.
  40. 1 point
    I’ll be in the exact same position as you next March with a 10yo CS. Other than a major service and a pre-emotive gearbox oil change (not actually due till year 12!) I’ll just have a detailed inspection of all suspension components incl top-mounts and all bushes for wear/splitting and replace anything that’s ‘aged’. Maybe fit the stuttgart Classica gear-linkage clamps as a preventative measure for 10yo gear-cables? Currently on sale at £60+VAT and free P&P (far cheaper than design911!) https://www.stuttgart-classica.co.uk/water-cooledparts/gear-cable-camps Easy to self-fit if you have a pair of axle stands, did mine earlier this month. All pads and discs have been replaced this year and had a new clutch and DMF, so cant think of anything else ‘likely’ to wear out and she still seems to have plenty of life in her for a 10yo car 🏎😁👍🏻 Id like to update the PCM software (£???) and then do the 2018 maps update (£270 at OPC Silverstone), but it’s a lotta money just some new maps. With some TLC these cars do seem to last well. 👍🏻
  41. 1 point
    ---------------------------------- @Bushman ... Same is still so, in the biking world tbh... You still get die-hard K&N supporters on the bike forums I'm on but generally the majority agree that they're not what they used to be since they out-sourced their manufacturing base to China! ... There have been several reports of their oil filters shatting themselves due to poor seem welding... The BMC air filter is more popular now (along with the Pipercross)... Can never have too much induction roar lol 🙌
  42. 1 point
    -------------------------------------------------------------- Unless you have access to a lift you'll be looking at 6hrs I'd say... I changed the springs on my 350z GT & it was a bit of a bitch doing it with just jacks & stands!! You'll also require decent spring compressors (3 are better than 2!!) ... I've heard that it can take longer if the rear arms are seized! ... Also a good time to inspect the top mounts... They are a known "weak" point on the Cayman I believe...
  43. 1 point
    Figured I would update this - 2 years later and this is still working just fine. Do not pay an OPC a fortune for a new sender - just solder in a new potentiometer!
  44. 1 point
    Thanks Craig, have just ordered the 7mm + 15mm spacers plus longer bolts from Gert @ Carenwal. Yes, coupled with the H&R lowering springs I've just ordered I will definitely need to sort out the geometry! Thinking of having a chat with Regal Autosport in Southampton about that.
  45. 1 point
    An update on this: it was the RCA cables. changing them for some KnuKonceptz Krystal RCA cables (better quality and very shielded) almost entirely solved the problem; when first installed they were substantially better than the previous cables but I had to do some more work on the routing before they were entirely silent. There is still something down in the footwell which makes a load of electrical noise and I've had to keep them away from that area. I'm very happy that I now have a car whose radio can be listened to without a bad headache. I was despairing of ever achieving this! for reference, should anyone else try to install a separate amp and head unit then it's worth spending money on good quality interconnects. I skimped slightly on the sets I was using and wasted a LOT of time chasing down the problem.
  46. 1 point
    I’ve thought about having a ceramic coating on my 2016 white Cayman for some time now, but have been put off by the likely cost – around £1,000.I researched lots of products online and watched loads of YouTube videos, and eventually plumped for one in particular. Hopefully, what follows below will save some of you from having to sift through the plethora of detailing products for your cherished Porsche. I had a couple of scrapes on my valences – curse those high kerbs! -- and Chips Away in Plymouth sorted them out on my driveway, which couldn’t have been more convenient. Their operator, Lee, did a fantastic job. I had to wait about six weeks for the repair to fully harden before I could do any coating work, but I didn’t want to rush it and jeopardise his craftsmanship. The first thing you have to do to prepare the car is to strip off any old wax and dirt. I have the Autobrite snow foam lance and only use their own snow foam product. It rally works well and after hosing down the car with water, the snow foam goes on and then you wait 20 minutes for it to work its magic. Rinse off and get two buckets ready for the wash. I used Chemical Guys’ Clean Slate wash. There are plenty of others but this one was fine. I then used a clay bar, and finished with a Meguiar’s oscillating machine, using Poorboy’s wax free polish. You must not use a polish which contains additives – especially wax. You have been warned! When you’re ready to apply the liquid coating, you have to wipe down each panel, or part of a panel depending on how big the area is, with an IPA panel wipe alcohol spray. I used Mr Bling’s panel wipe. I split the roof into halves and the bonnet into three sections, then the doors, wings, etc, and used a print of a generic car plan so I didn’t forget how far I’d got. The IPA wipe is used prior to each panel’s treatment, and take care when using this or you may end up seeing pink elephants! After some research, I decided to use AvalonKing’s Armor Shield IX nano ceramic coating. Their website contains a wealth of easy-to-follow instructions and videos, also their very fast response to emails is a reassuring bonus. When it’s time to use the coating, have everything to hand and as the small bottle is easily overturned, designate a safe spot to put it down. Shake the bottle, and with the supplied small cloth wrapped around the sponge applicator, apply six or seven drops and wipe gently up and down and then across entire small area you’re treating to ensure it’s all covered. The cloth is a bit small and does get slippery, so it requires a little care not to drop it. But they give you three, so you can always use another. You’ll know when the pad needs refreshing as it loses its slipperiness and starts to grab, so just put a few more drops on. Just make sure all the area has a very thin coating on. Now you have to wait for it to start to dry. The instructions suggest some times depending on temperature, but working in a dry garage, I found it took about five or six minutes before it was ready to buff out. It’s tempting to spend that time just admiring the Cayman’s pristine bodywork, but I used the drying time to apply IPA on the next panel I’d be working on. When buffing, use REALLY LIGHT pressure. Just gently skim the supplied microfibre cloth over the surface – don’t try to polish it, just a light buffing can pick up any high spots or remaining wetness – and this will get the paintwork gleaming. After buffing, mark up your car diagram and move on to the next panel. After finishing, I let it rest for a couple of hours, then reapplied the coating again to the entire car, to give it the recommended two coats. You don’t need to use the IPA again. I found that one bottle of the ceramic coating was sufficient to treat my Cayman twice, and though I didn’t treat my wheels, there was some left over so perhaps I could have done them too. Getting this treatment right is not a quick job, but it’s worth taking the time to be methodical over it. Here’s how long each step took me, excluding the repair job :Foam 45 mins Dewax 45 mins Clay 1 hr Polish 3 hrs CC(1) 1 hr 15 mins Wait 2 hrs CC(2) 1 hr So about 10 hours in total, and the cost, excluding my snow foam lance, machine polisher and pressure washer, was about £100. A fantastic saving from an anticipated £1,000, and after leaving the car in the garage for a week to make sure it didn’t get wet, I found the finish hardened into a glass-like covering. It feels so smooth and solid that I am delighted with the result. AvalonKing says it should work for at least two years, but if the car is garaged, I reckon it should last a lot longer. Now when the car needs a clean, and after just using the snow foam, (unless the car is really dirty after a long wet drive), I usually don’t have to wash it with the shampoo as the snow foam appears to remove all the dirt. The shampoo I use now is Poorboy’s Super Slick Suds, which doesn’t contain additives or waxes. After a drive, any bugs can be removed very easily with a detailing spray and microfibre cloth. So there you have it. It’s very satisfying to see the results – any rain or water just runs off the car. I think it was a job well done. I’d be delighted to see any feedback you have about this review, and I hope it will be of some use to you. SWS
  47. 1 point
    Doesn’t seem to work in this instance, the radio is muted by itself when you turn on the ignition and won’t unmute.
  48. 1 point
    Just got my Tee today. Great packaging and great quality. Well done chaps. Question: do these shrink? Dryer ok?
  49. 1 point
    Always worth listing on the normal places with a spec list, you never know who is reading..... But, there will always be the people who see a highly modified car and automatically think it must have been tracked and thrashed, which is why the engine 'needed' to be rebuilt..... the sale of a modified car has quite a small window audience, so is generally a slow burner.
  50. 1 point
    I installed a K&N filter last year, and am very pleased with it - I don't think it makes much difference power wise but it adds to the induction noise, and seems to make acceleration a little more responsive (it could be a placebo effect!). I'd read lots of blurb about possible issues with oil from the filter transferring on to the MAF, but when I removed the MAF recently for an unrelated issue there was no trace of any type of contamination so that doesn't seem to be an issue (for me anyway).

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