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Showing content with the highest reputation since 19/09/21 in all areas

  1. I bought an average mile (44k) 981 S from Maundrells for £37K with an allowance of £26k for my 2010 Aqua Blue 987.2 with PDK, 19inch wheels and sports exhaust. The 981 has Sports Plus, 19" wheels, PASM, dual climate and some other minor bits and is in agate grey. It's a world apart from a 987.2 S which is pretty much a 2006 design. You can really feel the chassis stiffness and control over the 987.2. The Sports chrono pack transforms the car into the sports car it should have been as standard, phenomonal. Usual let down is the PCM system, pinched from Noah's Ark. Ordered a new Sony headunit with DAB and Apple car play. I had the same setup in my 987.2 and it was brilliant. I'm a happy chappie at the moment!
    4 points
  2. Living in the South East the only time you can really enjoy the roads is early morning or late at night. I find it utterly brilliant for clearing the mind. And just because I like the photo here is a completely gratuitous shot 😀 Anymore sunrise (or sunset) shots?
    4 points
  3. Just got my lil blue croc back after 9 months. took it to a indie specialist with a mysterious misfire and ended up spending thousands and having loads of work done. engine out, all new water pipes and hoses, rads and condensors, clutch, RMS, crank sensor, cam sensors and solenoids, ( which I had only replaced last year), MAF sensor, all new undertray studs as many were broken or corroded, Pioneer head unit, wheels fully refurbished, modified and resprayed front end. this totalled over 75 hours in labour and over £2500 in parts. I have to say that although it took 9 months, AutoUmbrau at Silsoe did a cracking job, it was done as a background fill-in task to keep the labour rate down as I am facing possible redundancy with an uncertain future at work and didnt need the Porker as I also run a Grand Cherokee that I picked up cheap. Robin the owner is a true perfectionist and will only use oem parts. Mint Alloys also at Silsoe refurbished the Carrera Classics to a better than new standard, Highly recommended if you need your wheels restored. I havnt done many miles yet but the grin is back. The exhaust however is another matter, It is so loud, mainly a drone issue, this should fade a bit as the pipes and cans soot up but I am expecting to have to wrap the system in glass tape and may have to build a 1/4 wave resonator and weld it in to reduce the dreaded 2000 rpm drone. above this, it is a wailing banshee hat makes my stupid grin wider. Now looking forward to next year, hopefully some normality (what ever that is) and COC meets and ride outs. see you soon chaps. Steve.
    3 points
  4. Been lurking for some time & enjoying reading the experience of others on this forum, thought perhaps it was time to contribute something! My personnel Porsche history is all based around the 3.4 engine , having owned a 996, 981cs & currently a 2006 987CS. whilst the same displacement they do all have different characteristics . the 996 a very capable car , & very much a 911 in my opinion, 981 with its DFI has more of its torque in the mid range & 987s higher up , which i think makes it great fun to ring out, so long as the engine oil is up to temp of course ! The road tax on my Gen 1 is £340 (reg. march 06),so they do not all come into the higher band. It also never needs engine oil topping up between services. Not wishing to be controversial , but feel the gen1 gets a bit of a hard time & felt a little balance is needed .
    3 points
  5. https://jmgporsche.co.uk/ are nearby yep? if so, I'd go with these as they are well established as Porsche gurus in that area.
    2 points
  6. I just think our 10 to 15 year old cars really have no place at an OPC service centre. Those places want the 6 years and younger stuff. You know, the ones where they can charge a shed load for just changing the fluids. The mechanics there don't see many 987.1 anyway whereas a good indie does so how up the speed of them is your grunt at the OPC anyway.
    2 points
  7. The gearbox was too low - it just had to be jacked up a bit higher! No idea why that wasn't coming to me at the time FML. I sat there, looking at the two mounts thinking to myself that it's the same distance from the top plate to the bottom of the mount, how can this be so far off? Then it hit me... the box had drifted downwards whilst I was fannying around with the mount. Nonetheless, this was easy enough once I raised the gearbox up. The hardest part of this whole thing was torquing the mount to the bracket; you have to torque it but not twist the mount out of alignment. It would have been a lot easier with two people (one to hold the mount, the other to torque it), but I managed to mangle my hand into position so that I could hold the spanner on the nut and also hold the mount in place. Now the pics. I wasn't able to find a single picture of these actually installed so I felt obligated to take some. Installed: Things to note: 1) Had to use three of the four supplied washers on one side. The thread on the bolt did not cover the whole length of the bolt, just the end. This meant that it was running out of thread before the nut could tighten (it was bottoming out before it was even hand tight). I used the washer to space this out and ensure it could be torqued up. I suspect this is more an issue with the hardware that's tossed in and is specific to this kit. I was going to get a fully-threaded bolt but the washer works just fine and means that I can get one side done. 2) Reuse the original bolt/nut for the two outer mount fasteners rather than those in the kit (especially as there's no nut). 3) There is no way you'll torque that mount to bracket bolt (65nm) when it's installed on the car. There's just not enough room between the mount and the gearbox. You have to torque it up on a bench and then install it. Luckily, there's two dimples that you can use on the mounts to line up with the bracket. If those dimples are directly aligned to the bracket, the mount will line up perfectly when it's installed. On the section of the bracket that the bolt goes through, there are two flat surfaces; clamp those in your vice so that you can torque the bolt up without bending the bracket. You could probably do this with a spanner and three hands if you don't have a vice. 4) Once torqued up, the mount had a surprising amount of movement in it. This gives me hope for a more positive NVH experience than I was anticipating. 5) The thread on the bolt has to be cut or it will fowl the suspension arm below. I could've probably taken another thread or two off but it's got reasonable clearance and that's good enough for me. Have partially cut the other bolt ready for when I get another two washers (Monday). The orange is a coating from my recipro saw blade, not rust. On the original mount, there's an E24 e-torx/security nut holding it to the bracket. I used a 19mm socket on my impact wrench (I only had E20) which made light work of it. Finally, besides the seal rings, I feel the price difference between the mounts by themselves and the mounts+hardware are a bit hefty. Buy the seal rings from your chosen specialist as I suspect these are OEM bits (being gold zinc coated) and they may be difficult to obtain local to you. To summarise and save yourself some cash: Buy the seal rings from a specialist (90130531100) Buy 2x M10 bolts with 120mm legnth along with matching serrated flange nuts (about £5-10 online) Buy 4x M10, 3mm thick washers (£2-3 at best online) If you go to your local fastener supplier, you may get them significantly cheaper and I would highly recommend that before buying online. I'll update this again on Monday once I have obtained washers, fitted the other side and of course taken it for a drive! I'll be replacing the engine mount next if the 4th gear judder is still present, but one thing at a time.
    2 points
  8. Helloooo everybody, long time no see, life has been so busy that I haven't had time for online life, also haven't had time to drive my Cayman R since July, It's sitting in the garage under a cover on a C-Tek, wasted really. So just to put the cat amongst the pigeons as they say, if anybody is in the market for a 1 of 1 in the world, Viper Green Cayman R, 20k miles full Porsche service history, last one being a major at Porsche Tonbridge less than a thousand miles ago, including Drive belt and tensioner and spark plugs, and brand new MPS4S tires fitted recently. It's got all the right bits, Manual - Check Buckets - Check Spyder Wheels - Check PSE- Check Sports Chrono - Check Short Shift - Check Air con - Check Oh and the brakes have been upgraded to Giro two piece discs and Ferrodo pads. (originals included in case you wanted to put a warranty on it) Oh and did I mention it's the only one in Viper Green from the 1421 Cayman R's that were produced, so proper Unicorn poo! Serious discussions only, its very nice, ask anyone who has seen it, no test drives unless I'm driving, but to be fair if you don't know what a R is like to drive you probably won't be entertaining this one. Oh the price, £60,000 no offers considered so don't waste either of our time asking. Lots of photos on IG https://www.instagram.com/vipercaymanr/?hl=en DM me if you want a chat. Thanks Peter
    2 points
  9. Re the HP2000s, good initial bite even from cold, but do have to ‘prod them’ a bit harder than the stock pads on the first couple of applications on normal road, but once you’re into the flow of a drive and they’re warmed up they bite just as quick as stock. nil fade on track and consistent braking time after time (but I’m not a heavy / hard braker). No pad judder in the pedal after repeated use, so I reckon no deposits being left on the discs, but i also have slotted discs which might help ‘skim’ the of surface? lots of confidence. Lots of pedal feel, great threshold braking (ie lots of braking efficiency without abs activiation), great longevity (8k miles incl. ~8 track days & still got 6-8mm of material left). No doubt some ultra racer types will prefer full on race pads, but when I do a track day I realise I am not racing - so don’t need race pads… as an all rounder from street to track I like them and think they are an improvement on the textars for on track, with little compromise on road. In fact on road they are possibly ‘overkill’. If I were only driving on road I’d stick with the textar. NB - I’ve never used ds2500 or Mintex to compare against, so can’t comment on whether the HP2000 are better or worse than those.
    2 points
  10. Ummm...cancel that as just looked at sellers facebook profile banner image...
    1 point
  11. You do it through the OBC, under "Chrono".
    1 point
  12. Looks absolutely mint! Loving the centre LEDs and grills. Giving me some ideas...
    1 point
  13. My R had the folding carbon buckets, and they along with another issue were the primary reason I sold it less than 6 months (actually closer to 4) after having bought it. I'm 5ft 11" something, basically 6 ft and long of torso, short of leg. The FCB were mounted too high for me, and despite ordering and fitting a set of seat lowering brackets from Tarett in the States, the problem persisted. The "problem" being my lower back (which I struggle to get comfortable with in a lot of cars) caused what you've referred to as sciatica. I'd had similar problems with the same seats in a 997 GT3 in 2012, so much so that on a near 4 hour journey, my right leg became so painful, I ended up using my left foot to press the accelerator, so desperate was I to get home. Rest assured, I wouldn't advise that course of action ... The Cayman R was no different, and towards the end of its tenure, I could drive it no more than 45 minutes without being in agony. I then had to stop, get out and walk about for a minimum of 30 minutes, before I could drive it again for another 45 minutes I was tempted to remove the seats, and fit some others as I had done with a BMW 1M coupe previously, but I wasn't sufficiently enamoured with the Cayman R to go through the whole rigmarole of a seat swap, so I elected to sell it instead. Two years later I moved house and that entailed moving numerous heavy boxes, that in turn tweaked my lower back and the sciatica. Under normal circumstances I'd heat pack my lower back for few days, and if that didn't work, I'd book an appointment with my physio, and all would settle down and get back to normal. But this time, I couldn't break out of the pain loop, and my back got steadily worse to the point I felt it best to get a CT scan undertaken. That showed the discs had compressed with age, and they and as a result the facet joints were rubbing together and inflamed. It was suggested I had a steroid injection to enable things to settle down sufficiently to break out of the pain loop. However several friends advised against me this. Then I then started dating a lady who suggested I should try Pilates. She lent me a video to watch, which I chose to ignore... Four months later and still in agony, I decided to visit a Pilates teacher on the 14th Feb 2019 ... It turned out to be gamechanger, within a month I was pain free 90% of the time (as opposed to being in pain 90% of the time) And when I was in pain (due to gardening work or working on the car) I could exercise my way out of it within 24-48 hours. I managed 12 months of one to one tuition, until I moved down South and Covid wreaked havoc on us all. The moral ? Finding seating that is comfortable isn't really the answer, addressing the cause of the pain is.
    1 point
  14. Mine just runs like this. There's a chunky seal on the door frame and it definitely showd no permanent signs of deformation as the cables so thin.
    1 point
  15. I use the cigarette lighter approach on my gen.1 and works really well. I’ve not managed to get it to feel safe under the door sill so I tend to drop the window a tiny bit and put over the top. The Porsche branded charger seems to be made by ctek also.
    1 point
  16. Yes, that's the idea. I checked my orders and this is the one I got. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0016LA5O8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    1 point
  17. It's a good question, and one that I don't know the answer to, but can confirm that it works on my gen 2! You'll need the below: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06XXDMGW3/
    1 point
  18. I'm confused why you don't just use the lighter socket inside? You just need the adaptor cable - the cable's thin and goes within the lower door seal gap when closed easily.
    1 point
  19. I think it is always the way with any forum or car brand, the stories of doom will be passed along much quicker than anything else, and often from people that don't actually have direct experience of any of the reported issues. I just passed on my older 2008 VW Caddy which had the 1.9tdi engine in, reported to be bomb proof.... the horror stories of the newer 1.6tdi engines eating injectors is widely reported on forums and most people who are looking into them are told to buy an older car and stay away from the newer due to costs and regularity of the failures on them. It is all unfounded, there are some issues, like any car, but it has been blown up and reported on by so many people who 'just know about it'. I'm not saying this is the case for the 3.4 engine, there are some issues surrounding them, but bad news is always passed around much much quicker than the good. There are plenty of 3.4's out there with high mileage that have never had issues, well maintained and managed cars.
    1 point
  20. Welcome one and all 👍🏻, after all a Boxster is really a Cayman Cabriolet so all the same genus… 😉 If the spyder suspension is fundamentally the same as the cayman R (which I think it is, but someone like Gert at Carnewal can probably confirm that?) then as well as the stiffer and shorter springs and matched shocks you’d also need the slightly thicker rear ARB and it’s bushes. I recently fitted the cayman R ARB to my CS (~£200 from Porsche OPC) and I do think it has slightly sharpened turn in, ie reduced some of the under steer. But this may just be placebo effect? 🤷‍♂️ heres part numbers and prices (at start of the year anyway) R shocks front 987 343 042 09 - £277.44 ea R shocks rear 987 333 051-23 £388.51 ea R coil springs front 987-343-531-40-504 - £231.17pr (yellow & orange) R coil springs rear 987-333-531-96-504 - £231.70pr (yellow & orange & green) + 1 x Anti Roll Bar Rear. Porsche Cayman R (98733370107) DO PLEASE CHECK THEM ALL YOURSELF with an OPC, before ordering anything against those numbers! there are many threads on here for other comparable suspension options, have a little search for them would be my best recommendation. 👍🏻
    1 point
  21. Yeah, if it's an daily an S is the go.
    1 point
  22. by the time you do all that you are halfway closer, of the difference, to an R. Get the R, life it too short.
    1 point
  23. I’ve used ate typ200 (previously known as superblue) and found on a hard day the pedal still went soft at the end of the day. past 2-3 years now I’ve used RBF600 and had no issues at all. I also have braided hoses and GT3MC and GT3 front brake ducts, standard pads &’discs rear and sebro slotted front discs with brembo hp2000 pads. I change the brake fluid annually.
    1 point
  24. my .1 S is coming up to 110K now, i'd love it if it keeps going strong till 200k! Highest original 987.1S i've seen is around 140k on autotrader/ebay
    1 point
  25. On brake fluid, from my research fresh RBF600 would be fine, you're not going to boil it and it's relatively cheap at c. £25 a litre. I have it in mine right now. You'll probably want to refresh it every 6 months though. Castrol SRF is more expensive at c. £60 per litre, but has higher boiling points (dry and wet) and should last a year between changes, so may well be the better option long term, and is what I intend to put in mine come spring time.
    1 point
  26. Porsche charged me around £53 to replace my out of date sealant earlier this year when they picked it up on their free health check. I wouldn't normally buy that sort of thing from them but they have done me a couple of favours recently so it was a case of grin and bear it!
    1 point


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