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Woodhouse

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Woodhouse last won the day on September 11

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About Woodhouse

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  • My Ride
    981 Cayman S
  • Location
    Bristol area

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  1. Hi Graham, I have a 981 Cayman with 20" wheels and PASM and I find the ride quality is one of the best things about the car. It's miles better than my daily C Class Merc on 19" option wheels and also better than my previous 987 gen 1 Cayman on 18" with PASM.
  2. The price looks ok to me given the spec and assuming condition is ok. It's in the cheaper tax bracket so will save you £200 or so each year. It's critical that you establish the oil consumption and trend if its a private sale (and obviously you need to be confident it's the truth!). If a dealer, you might have some protection under the Sale of Goods Act against bore scoring but that will probably come down to the dealer himself covering it as many aftermarket warranties won't cover it. Personally, unless I could have a borescooe inspecton I would only buy a Gen1 987S privately from a long term owner or from a very reputable dealer. If you are ok with DIY, most other common age/mileage related issues can be sorted relatively cheaply but still expect to pay around £1k per year average (double if using a specialist). Some parts are eye watering from Porsche, such as replacement auto dimming mirror lenses at around £350 each apparently. Regarding the xenon headlights, my previous 2006 987 had these and I found them to be pretty good, certainly miles better than my 986 Boxster with the standard lights. I would not buy a car without them.
  3. Just in case anyone else experiences this, thought I'd post about my problem this week with my 981S. I didn't find much on Google but I believe it's a fairly common problem. The symptoms were a rough idle and low RPM running, accompanied by CEL and PSM Failure warnings. At higher RPM, it was ok. My Durametric diagnostic cable showed misfires on all Bank 2 cylinders (4/5/6) plus numerous other codes including P1381. Durametric identified this as misfire related but a knowledgable friend pointed out that this code is actually "valve lift control - one bank in wrong lift". There is one of these valves in the middle of each cylinder head and they control the switching between high and low settings for the amount of inlet valve iift or opening. I fitted the new part yesterday to bank 2 (just under £100 with TIPEC discount from my OPC). Access is through the wheel arch after removing the wheel and plastic liner at the front of the arch (as per spark plug replacement). Tools are an E8 Torx socket to remove two M5 screws and a long screwdriver to release the electrical connecter clip, plus male Torx bits and 10mm socket to remove the arch liner. Access is really tight and I struggled with big hands. There's also a risk of dropping the M5 screws down into the exhaust manifold underneath which has integral heat shielding so I stuffed it with paper towels to avoid having to try to retrieve a dropped screw in that blind space. I got the old valve out but had to get my son to get the new one back into position and connector on. The car is now running fine again.
  4. Make sure the clutch kit includes the release bearing. On my previous Gen 1 S, the bearing fell apart on removal at 58k miles. The guide tube that the release bearing slides on was very worn too. Not expensive. The combination of worn release bearing and guide tube produced a juddery feel through the pedal, which is the reason I changed the clutch. I also changed the flywheel and RMS. The flywheel failed the rotation test and the RMS was weeping, though no real evidence externally. The RMS change needs a special tool to ensure it is inserted square and to the correct depth. My local OPC lent me the factory tool but your friendly garage should know about this if they've done lots. On another Gen 1 S we had, the IMS bearing cover was leaking so had to be changed. Your garage will also know about the exhaust stud corrosion problem and should fit stainless bolts instead of the pressed in and welded studs. This aspect more than doubled the whole job time for me and is an utter pig compared to the doddle of the rest of the job.
  5. I strongly recommend removing the bumper and separating the a/c condensers from the coolant rads to clear out the crap that gets stuck between the two. The Zunsports should reduce this but left unattended it will rot the condensers and rads. It really should be part of the service schedule. https://www.flickr.com/gp/61155387@N08/io1FsD
  6. Yes, I noticed yours was different. Mine was a Gen 1 3.4S and I'm pretty sure it was standard, not modified.
  7. https://www.flickr.com/gp/61155387@N08/te07V0 Jason, you should be able to see if one of the cables has become disconnected or broken with the undertrays in place. My photo should give you an idea of where to look. The triangular plate on top of the gearbox is where the cables clip into, right above the driveshafts, and the ball connectors on the gearbox selector levers are where the cable ends clip on to. PM me if you need more pictures or explanation.
  8. My Gen 1 DMF failed the rotation test so I replaced it but it was only around £300 for the LUK item. I do remember reading that the Gen 2 flywheels are much more expensive for some reason. I didn't notice any difference after fitting the new flywheel to be honest so unless there is any vibration I'd think twice about replacing it on the Gen 2 unless it's well out of limits on the rotation test. Once the exhaust studs have been sorted, whipping the box out again to do the flywheel if it starts to give trouble is a pretty easy DIY job. The coolant pipes are a fairly easy, though fiddly, DIY job. I wrote a detailed DIY procedure if you fancy having a go yourself Jason. Parts cost on the Gen 1 was a little over £200 for the two aluminium crossover pipes and four flexible radiator hoses when I did it.
  9. Jason, my bet is your pressure plate has cracked. This happened on one of our Gen 1 Caymans a couple of years ago, causing exactly the symptoms you describe. When I replaced the clutch and DMF myself on our other car a few years before, I used the Sachs clutch kit and found it was exactly the same (i.e. all the same Sachs markings and part numbers) as the original factory fitted clutch I removed. Second time around, I got our local OPC to do it due to the nightmare I had dealing with the exhaust studs on the other car. They fitted the aftermarket Sachs clutch I supplied, as they accepted it was OEM.
  10. I've fitted Pagid disks and Pagid or Textar pads from Euro Car Parts or their online sister company Carparts4less to several Boxsters and Caymans and they've been fine. To stop the discs rusting again, make sure you get some heat into the brakes before you park up at the end of a wet journey and dry the brakes after washing the car. I've always done the latter but adopting the former completely ended the problem on my last Cayman after I had to replace the discs due to inner face corrosion.
  11. I didn't ask him but I do have his email address. PM me if you'd like it.
  12. I contacted the private seller about the Guards Red car before he sold it recently. He retro fitted the R style door pulls and had already sold the original carbon bucket seats separately. Not sure what they sold for but I found a thread on a forum from around the end of last year and he was askng £5k iirc. He was asking about £21k for the car so I'm not convinced selling the seats separately was a smart move as the standard seats he'd fitted (not even Sports seats) were completely at odds with the rest of the spec.
  13. You might be lucky if one of the cable connectors has popped off at the gearbox rather than broken. This hapened to the buyer of one of our 987s and the AA guy popped it back on and straped it back in place.
  14. Adam, I'd get in touch with Sports and Classic Ltd in Cheshire. Never used them myself but I know they are a well regarded Porsche independent specialist and repair gearboxes.
  15. Glad you got it sorted. I bet the pedal is a lot lighter now!
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