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Woodhouse

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Woodhouse last won the day on January 13

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About Woodhouse

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    981 Cayman S
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    Bristol area

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  1. Gen 1 cars registered before 23rd March 2006 are cheaper to tax than cars registered after that because the government changed the tax rates on that date. All gen 1 987 S and 2.7 cars with 6 speed gearboxes (and maybe Tiptronics?) After that date are about £200 per year more expensive to tax, currently around £550. As far as I know (happy to be corrected) all 987 gen 2 cars are in the same tax bracket as the early gen 1s.
  2. John, As Rich says, the main difference between gen 1 and 2 is the gen 2 doesn't suffer from bore scoring to anything like the extent that the gen 2 does. The IMS bearing risk in the gen 1 is very low so not a discriminator. Pretty much everything else appears to be just as susceptible to wear out or failure on the gen 2 as the gen 1. It was the case a year or two ago that the gen 2 premium was in the same parish as a decent engine rebuild on s gen 1. So the choice was to pay the premium up front (and expect to get the majority of it back on resale) with a gen 2. Or accept the 5-10% (probably significantly less over say a 2 year ownership period providing the car is sound when you buy it) risk of the unrecoverable cost of an engine rebuild if the worst happened with a gen 1 (say £5k for a cheap fix to sell the car on). So in my view, taking into account an older gen 1 may have already had some significant expenditure that a younger gen 2 still faces, the difference in financial risks/costs between the two was not clear cut. The gen 2 premium has reduced a bit recently so maybe there is a stronger case for it but over a typical ownership period, I'd still recon 97+% of gen 1 owners will have no worse an overall cost of ownership experience compared to gen 2 owners, and for about 50% of the initial outlay.
  3. Hi John, no question in my mind, just do it! In my experience over many years, I have never had a problem selling my cars or motorcycles when I've maintained them myself, actually I would say the opposite as I'm convinced they've been easier to sell because of it. I'm also very sure I've not suffered financially either. As most of the folks have already said, a big part of it is keeping fastidious records of what you've done and the evidence (receipts, photos etc) to back it up. But it is not just about record keeping, it's also about being able to demonstrate that you've gone above and beyond what most other owners have done or had done to their cars. Many people can produce a stamped service book that demonstrates a basic level of compliance with routine scheduled maintenance requirements. But in my experience if you really scrutinise the service history, you will often find gaps in the "optional" scheduled items such as brake fluid changes, gearbox oil changes, spark plugs, drive belts, etc. And few can produce the evidence that they've kept the car fresh in terms of timely replacement of wear out items or additional preventative maintenance over and above the manufacturer's service schedule. I also think my professional background and hands-on experiences of Porsche ownership since the 1990s helps to give potential buyers a degree of confidence that I know what I'm doing. The last three Porsches I've sold have all been through forum or private contacts who have seen extra value in the way I've looked after the cars. Despite all that, last year I elected to have the Minor service on my 981 done by my local OPC. This was because of its relative newness and the likelihood that I might sell it in the forseeable future. Given its relative young age and low mileage, it's not yet at the point where maintenance history is a positive differentiator when selling. But I know I would have done a better job, as the OPC took short cuts and made some errors, and cost about £500 more than if I'd done it myself. If I do end up keeping this particular car, I will most definitely be doing the future maintenance myself.
  4. Hi Craig, when I changed the front springs with genuine Porsche items on my gen 1 at around 73k miles due to one snapping, I also did the top mounts, top mount bearings, bump stops and lower control arms (coffin arms). I also did the coolant pipes as these require dropping the front subframe which requires a geometry alignment, as the suspension work obviously does. And when you do the alignment, I recommend maxing front negative camber with zero toe. Or a smidgen of toe out to really sweeten up the turn in at the expense of a slight loss of straight line stability and some inner edge tyre wear.
  5. Hi Jo, from the responses from us members so far, it looks like we've got a mixture of novices like me and others such as Craig and Nick who've already done one of your courses. So it looks like we're at different levels and probably looking for different things at the moment. I might be interested in the Easter Saturday event if this is a good way to catch up with the others. Presumably this is the Performance Driver "Track" Day? Is this the half day or full day and what's the cost? Maybe our other "novices" might be up for this too? Thanks, Derek
  6. Jo, is the Cornering Masterclass suitable for novices? If so and you still have space, could you PM me details of the 13th June event? Failing that, do you expect to have any club weekend slots later in the year that might work for us? Thanks, Derek
  7. Well, that's three of us. Anyone else interested? Nick, I know you did it last year; how many do we need to make this viable?
  8. Regarding the cars you linked to, nos 1, 2 & 5 are basic spec manuals (2 & 5 are the same car). Nothing wrong with manuals if that's what you want. Personally I prefer manuals in a sports car (PDK is the thing I least like about my 981). No, 3 is a fairly good spec PDK with 20" wheels + PASM so should ride fairly well. Also has leather dash etc which is much nicer in my opinion than the plastic dash/door cards. It also has the flappy paddle "Sport Design" steering wheel, which is generally much preferred over the standard wheel with buttons rather than paddles. These steering wheels can be retrofitted but are very expensive (the wheel alone without airbag is about £1K new). Also has PCM sat nav - again, a fairly desirable option even though your smartphone will probably do a better job. However, the brake calipers have been painted red to make it look like the "S" model. No. 4 is a PDK with the Sport Design steering wheel, 20" wheels and leather seats so a couple of optional extras over nos 1 & 2 but has plastic dash, no PASM (so more harsh ride on the 20" wheels) and no PCM Nav. No. 6 is a PDK but with the standard "buttons" steering wheel. It does have the Sport Plus seats which I personally prefer as the bolsters are deeper and they hug you better. It also has PCM Nav and cruise control. It's a few £K cheaper than most of the others but also a year or two older. No. 7 is a PDK with the Sport Design steering wheel, 20" wheels and leather seats but again no PASM. It does have PCM Nav. No. 8 is a manual with the Sport Design steering wheel, 19" wheels and leather seats but no PASM. Probably not a big problem but won't ride as well as the basic spec cars on 18". It does have PCM Nav and also dual zone climate control which I don't think the others have. But 61K miles is quite a lot and so it's not far off needing some money spent to freshen it up. But also a few £K cheaper too. No. 9 is a manual with fairly basic spec apart from the leather dash/door cards, cruise, folding mirrors. So overall, based on you prioritising ride quality, I'd rule out nos 4, 7 as they have 20" wheels but no PASM. Of the rest, none of them stands out to me as a particular bargain but equally none immediately suggest you should avoid. None of them has the Porsche Dynamic Lighting System (PDLS) which are bi-xenon swivelling headlights and would be an essential spec requirement for me (the give away is the small protruding headlamp washers in the bumpers). Also none has the Porsche Sports Exhaust (PSE) which is a switchable set of flaps in the exhaust system and some ECU trickery which adds lots of pops and crackles which many people like. Also none has the BOSE hi fi option which is much better than the fairly dire standard system (but overall still not that great). None has Sport Chrono which adds a (fairly useless!) clock on the dash but also adds a Sport Plus mode which further sharpens throttle response and gear shift points on the PDK. I didn't check for things such as front and rear parking sensors and bluetooth phone connectivity (which I'm not sure is standard) but in my view very handy to have. My recommendation is to spend a bit of time familiarising yourself with the various options and the general market pricing, go see a few and test drive, and take it from there.
  9. Hi BC, here's my view: a) Ride quality is down to wheel size and suspension type. The 20" rims look nice but I would not have them without Porshce Active Suspension Management (PASM) option which has two modes and in Normal setting is softer than cars with standard (non-PASM) suspension. My 981 has 20" wheels and PASM and rides significantly better than my C Class estate on optional 19" rims. If you want the best ride quality, go for the standard 18" rims (only available on a 2.7) and PASM. My 981 ride quality is significantly better than my previous 2006 Cayman with 18" rims and PASM. b) These cars are not cheap to own long term compared with mass market cars. A Minor service with a couple of age related extra items on my 981 at my local Official Porsche Centre (OPC) last year cost £775. A good independent would have been about £500. The Major service (every 4 years) in Sept 17 cost the previous owner £1200 at his OPC. If you are DIY capable (I am but chose this time to keep the OPC service history going for resale benefit) then you can substantially cut the costs. I could do the Major for about £200 with OEM quality parts. I have a Durametric diagnostic cable which is essential for DIY fault diagnosis, switching off service indicators etc and costs about £300. My previous 2006 Cayman S cost me about £3500 in parts over about 6 years and 30K miles on a DIY basis but that included some significant parts replacements such as clutch and flywheel, coolant pipes, aircon condensers, tyre pressure monitoring sensors, suspension partial replacement, brakes, etc.. As another comparison, my first Boxster back in 2009 was a six year old basic 986 model 2.7 which I bought from the original owner who had done 115k miles in it and always used our local OPC for all servicing and repairs. He gave me a stack of OPC invoices totalling almost £14K (which excluded tyres) but as you'd expect with that degree of maintenance, the car was in most respects like new despite the miles. c) There are some very good (I'd argue some are even better than OPC) Porsche independent specialists around. Expect to pay between £50 and £85/hour (plus VAT) for these, compared with about £130/hr at your local OPC. I have been using OEM quality parts mainly from Euro Car Parts (or their usually cheaper internet - only sister company carparts4less) for over 20 years without any issues. As an example, a set of OEM quality front discs and pads from CP4L for my 981 Cayman S would today cost me £243 delivered. I'd guess an OPC would charge probably £800 or so to supply and fit. You shouldn't need an exhaust on a 981 for a good few years as they are made of stainless steel and last a long time. d) The original 2006-2009 987 "gen 1" Cayman S 3.4 engines (engine type M97) are known to have a major potential flaw - cylinder bore scoring. Only a fairly small percentage (5-10% currently - guesstimate) but will probably increase with age so maybe not great for big mileages. Having said that, I'm sure there are such cars out there still going strong with 150k miles. The 9A1 engine type was introduced for the 2009 model year 987 "gen 2" cars and the 981 models use this engine design, which has proved to be much more reliable. I'd personally go with a 987 gen 2 or 981 for high mileage life expectancy but the rest of the car will still need money spending on it at much lower mileage. From around 50-60k miles, I'd be expecting (and have been through this on my previous Boxsters and Caymans) to be replacing the clutch (if manual), suspension components, coolant pipes (987 cars), window regulators, aircon condensers, wheel bearings, exhaust clamps, in addition to the usual wear out items like brakes. I must admit they have all seemed a bit more fragile than my family cars such as my Audi A6 which I took from 30K to about 120K miles with very little needed. But be aware that even the 981 can occasionally catch you out with eye watering bills. The PDK (semi-automatic) gearbox, whilst very reliable, is not completely unknown to go pop and replacement (internal faults are apparently not repairable!) out of warranty is in the region of £7-8K. e) Partly covered above but I would say that the £10K / 75K mile 2006 car is probably needing a fair bit of money spent on it to bring it back to a good standard but this is not always the case. I recently was involved in the purchase by a good friend of mine of my old 2006 3.4 S which I had previously sold to another member on here. The car was in the same £ / miles ballpark as your example. It is probably the highest spec 987 you will ever find and is in excellent shape for its age and miles, having been looked after just as well by the chap who bought it from me. But despite all that, there's no getting away from the fact that it is now a 14 year old car and there will be more issues than on a 30K miles 6 year old 981. Another thing to bear in mind regarding the older gen 1 987 cars (2005-2009) is that most (including the 2.7 engine ones) are in the highest road tax bracket and will cost around £550/year to tax. My old car was first registered just before the March 23rd 2006 date when the tax bandings changed and so was is "only" around £325 to tax. f) I don't think that the age of 981 cars makes much difference to price; it's more down to mileage and spec (and of course condition and history). These are quite spec sensitive and so you really do need to get to know what's what to work out whether the price advertised is fair or not. As a generalisation, I think the 2.7 cars have fewer options and this helps keep the resale price down. The new price of Porsche options is eye watering - my old 2006 car had about £16k of options and my 981 has even more, so you can see how say Porsche Communications Management (sat nav basically) as a £2K+ option when new can have an impact on the 2nd hand price. g) As above, I personally would buy on condition, spec and miles before worring about age, when considering a 981. Having said that, the 2013 model years (first year of production) didn't have DAB radio as an option, otherwise I think there is virtually no difference in build standard and available options when comparing early and late cars of the same type (base/S/GTS). h) Very difficult to answer. You just have to look at each car on it's merits. There are always relative bargains to be had but you need to know what you're looking for (and consider buying privately if you want the best bargains - I did with my 981 and no regrets from that point of view). I haven't had a chance to look at your specific examples, will try to do that later. All the best, Porsches are great cars and I hope the above doesn't put you off!
  10. Gen 2 cars might help you sleep at night but the gen 1 is still a great car and much cheaper. The bore scoring risk is just an additional consideration on top of the other potential issues that all ageing cars (not just Porsche) will be prone to. The gen 2 suffers from most of the issues affecting gen 1 which have already been mentioned in this thread. And bear in mind the newest gen 2 is now around 8 years old. Like all cars, these have their weak points and cost money to keep in good shape. I did all the maintenance on mine except geometry alignment myself, including clutch/flywheel/rear main seal replacement; suspension overhaul; discs and pads; coolant pipes; a/c condensers; window regulator; as well as scheduled maintenance. I bought it with 47k miles and sold it with 78k and spent around £3.5K, mostly on parts. If buying a gen 2, there's every likelihood that these items will need doing, whereas a slightly older gen 1 may well have already had them. By coincidence, just today I acted as go between in the purchase of my old gen 1 S by a good friend of mine. It's a fantastic very high spec car and has been really well looked after by the chap who bought it from me about 18 months ago. Had my friend not bought it, I would have been really tempted to buy it back myself. In many ways, I prefer it to my 981S. So I am not saying do not buy a gen 1, just do your homework, keep a slush fund aside (a couple of £K is often mentioned on Porsche owner forums) and you should be fine.
  11. As Stephen says, this is potentially the most serious issue in these cars. Having previously had two of these in the family for around 7 years, I have seen and heard enough first hand stories to realise this is a real issue, not just internet folk lore. I advised my Son's best friend on the purchase of a car that had been bore scored and subject to a "cheap" DIY based repair and have seen plenty of posts on various forums over the last 10 plus years from owners who have suffered this fate. A few years ago, I met a local part time sports car dealer who lives close to me and at that time, he had on his hands both a 997 Carrera S and 987 Cayman S which he'd bought for resale and both turned out to be bore scored. From everything I've seen, I would guess that the failure rate so far (obviously increasing over time) is in the 5-10% range. So I accept there's a good chance that a prospective purchase is ok but I'm still personally uncomfortable with that level of risk. I would not worry about IMS bearing failure on one of these cars as although there have been cases, the failure rate is very low. The cost to fix bore scoring will range from £2-3k for the absolute minimum, based on DIY engine removal/strip/reassembly and professional replacement of one or two cylinder liners, to £10-12k for all 6 liners and other improvements. I would only buy one of these 987S gen 1 cars if at least one of these circumstances applied: - Buying from very reputable dealer providing a warranty that covers bore scoring. Most used car warranties, even from some Porsche independent specialists, won't cover it. In many/most dealer sales, you would have to rely on the Sale of Goods Act for a legal claim, rather than their warranty, and would need to initiate it quickly following the purchase. - From a long term private owner who could assure me that the oil consumption was both acceptable (I wouldn't buy one if it was using more than 1 litre per 2000 miles, and I'd ideally be looking for more like 10k miles or better per litre) and also that the oil consumption was stable over a decent period (10k + miles). Obviously, being able to trust the seller on this is crucial and if I had any doubts I'd walk away. - A very recent borescope inspection has been done by a competent person. However, these are not necessarily conclusive as good cars can show indications of scoring that might not actually be a problem. - It was being sold as bore scored and the price allowed for a decent rebuild (so would have to be very cheap!) Having bought a good one, it's really important in my opinion to also know what you need to do to reduce the risk of it subsequently happening: - Frequent oil changes (6k max) with good quality fully synthetic oil - Religious adherence to the warm up procedure - light throttle loads, keep revs between 2-3K max until both coolant and oil are fully warmed up (the 987 doesn't have an oil temp gauge but based on my experience with my current 981, the oil takes 2 to 3 times longer than the coolant to reach normal operating temperature) - Never ever (even when fully warmed up) labour the engine, i.e. high throttle / high torque at low RPM (i.e. below about 2500 rpm) - Use decent fuel (Shell V-Power if possible)
  12. Hi Graham, I have a 981 Cayman with 20" wheels and PASM and I find the ride quality is one of the best things about the car. It's miles better than my daily C Class Merc on 19" option wheels and also better than my previous 987 gen 1 Cayman on 18" with PASM.
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