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Craiglm68

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Craiglm68 last won the day on October 7

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About Craiglm68

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 14/10/1968

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  • My Ride
    Cayman S 987.1 (Dark Olive Metallic)
  • Location
    Poole, Dorset

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  1. That's the best in car video track day I've seen....clear view of the track, the cabin, instruments, your hairy arms and gauntlets etc....great work. And that track looks epic! Nicely driven of course. Was there any "heel n toeing" going on?
  2. How much was your own "top up"? I thought each oil gauge "block" represented circa 250-300ml?
  3. Fellow Caymanista's My front control arms have been flagged as items needing replacement in the not too distant future so I've procured a pair from Meyle. Anything else worth replacing/doing at the same time? Everything is standard and original as best I'm aware, circa 56K miles now Cheers Craig
  4. ##Indeed it is, but the advice you received sounds on point. Air filters (BMC and K&N pop up frequently) add a bit of induction noise, in theory allow a lower restriction flow of air, so might contribute 1 or 2 ponies worth only....a cheap mod at any rate. The breathing piece is key...I went for the standard Carnewal cat back set up (cost effective when you send your old system back and very popular amongst Caymanista's), others go the whole hog with headers, full exhausts upgrade if they have ££ to burn. As for re-maps, there's a few reputable suppliers out there. I've had my car on 2 dyno's since my map ; at DMS (where the map was done) then later on at Regal Motorsport (both down here on the coast), both returned near as dammit identical numbers (310-313hp at the wheels)....bear in mind that stock engines are rated officially at 295 at the flywheel for the gen 1, but as with many things Porsche, the "official" numbers can be slightly conservative (anecdotally I heard that actual outputs can vary by up to 3 or 4%...normally up rather than down).
  5. You have a problem/have too much spare time on your hands (still) and require professional help/another hobby/both. But seeing as we're on a topic and I have some spare time..... The Sprint Booster as I understand does the same jobbie as the "Sport" button on sports chrono...basically makes the throttle more responsive to smaller inputs from your foot ...so great for when learning to heel/toe etc....but no change to engine outputs etc. I honestly only use it when on track (same with PASM), so you shouldn't don't feel like you're missing out on anything tremendous. Remap....hotly debated. There's a few past strings on this if you search (I've shared my own experience with my CS and DMS, which was positive). Short answer is, take care of engine breathing 1st (exhaust/air filter etc) before considering a remap, and even then, don't expect anything more than 10-15% increase in bhp / torque .....typically you'll only notice the gains when giving it some beans (which I tend to do, hence happy!), mid-upper rev range. Your 2.7 engine is a lovely piece of machinery, sounds great as standard, and is I'm sure already entertaining the panites off of you as is. If so, leave her as she is and enjoy.
  6. Email Gert at Carnewal, he's brilliant with his responses to any questions you have. He's a COC affiliate or something like that I believe.
  7. I've been on the dyno at Regal in the past, they seemed a pretty on the ball crew, had some nice machinery in the workshop too
  8. Let me know how you get along Ben re both titment and the ride thereafter....I'm putting a Maxton splitter on the front soon, and I suspect it will be closer to the ground than the current flexible affair I have installed, let along if i drop things a few more cm's!
  9. ##Car will look great Ben. And when you get your geo redone afterwards, they should be able to help any changes in handling that the wider footprint might create.
  10. Mahoosive whale tail and some hand painted flames down the side?
  11. Seriously good write up and run down on how it all works in reality, well done!
  12. As with most things on this forum, beauty is often in the eye of the beholder (or the comfort of their backside in this case)....but I'll give my 2 bobs worth. I've only driven cars with 18" and 19" wheels never 20"'s....but by definition, the ride will almost always be firmer than the smaller diameter shoes. Most of us agree, larger wheels look great, and if we only drove on perfect, billiard smooth roads we'd all be packing 21" rims 🙂 PASM does indeed make a difference particularly on less than perfect roads, I found PASM's "smoothing" effect more noticeable on 19"'s than the 18"'s (I went with 18" rims in the end for my 987.1 CS). Some like to talk about un-sprung mass and similar physics/engineering-y topics when it comes to wheel diameters, consensus typically is that off the track, the smaller diameters make for a less harsh ride but with quick reactive turn in etc. Not to mention the tyres themselves are less expensive!
  13. Late to the party on this.....but am debating the lowering springs thing on my PASM 987.1 CS. Was the linear versus progressive spring rate thing discussed here? I hear that linear is best for PASM cars re protecting the shocks?
  14. There's a few FB groups dedicated to Caymans in particular, and Porsches in the UK in general, worth flagging the sale there too
  15. Somebody needs a hobby....oh hang on; you've got one! 😁 Makes my collection look positively anaemic in comparison #FOMO
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