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Everything posted by Ben

  1. When the time came to replace my (very corroded) bolts I used it as the opportunity to fit 7mm F and 15mm R spacers (and therefore longer bolts). Does make it a more expensive project, but makes a massive difference to the stance of the car. Gert Carnewal supplied the parts (H&R). Unless you've got spacers already of course!
  2. Make sure you check /put silicone grease on the section of the rubber window guide at the bottom that is attached to the door, that was where mine was getting obstructed, by a very small piece of rubber that had worn off
  3. Could try cleaning out and putting silicone grease on the rubber frame on the a pillar, I had a similar issue and it was due to the sensor thinking there was an obstruction
  4. Yes they are the M030, l would say the car feels much more planted than before, so corners flatter and faster. I think some say the spacers reduce oversteer but I haven't experienced that, although I don't track the car.
  5. That's the setup I have, recommended by Gert at Carnewal, who can provide the spacers (H&R), combined with the H&R springs which lower the car by approx 30mm. I love it, looks and handing both greatly improved. Car should have come out of the factory like this IMO! 😁
  6. Thanks Jason for organising this, and Syer / Marcos for the info, much appreciated!
  7. I've run a K&N filter for getting on for 2 years now with no issues whatsoever. Definitely increased induction noise (in a good way), which may cause the feeling that you are getting more power, but I could not say it has increased BHP, in fact some think the stock filter is better performance wise. Possibly the throttle response is a little sharper? The noise and the longevity swayed it for me though - better to re-use then throw away and only needs re-oiling every 40K miles in normal conditions I think.
  8. Ok time for a quick update on this - nice weather has meant I've finally had a chance to get a good look at the adjustors at the bottom of the door. There are 4 rubber grommets which easily prise off at the bottom of each door. The 2 nearest to the middle each give easy access to a 10mm (I think) bolt. If you loosen off each of these bolts, you can move them left or right (or in and out depending on how you look at it!) to adjust the rake of the window, front and back, so its closer or further away from the frame. You can easily see the whole window glass moving as you do it. I adjusted mine so that when closed the window was pressed almost as far as it would allow against the window frame, ensuring a very tight seal. Re-tighten the bolt and replace the grommets and then test run. Mine used to squeal quite badly at 45mph ish. Took it down the motorway at over 70 and no more noise. Very happy! Hope this helps someone👍
  9. This is the video that convinced me to go for the Carnewal GT a few years ago:
  10. Yes I think I read that article before purchasing the oil, and a few other places recommending the same - not sure I understand it all but they sound like they know what they're talking about!!
  11. Hi Syer, yes was about 1/3 ish of the final bottle left so I reckon you should be fine 👍
  12. After 85k miles and 12 years thought it was time to change the gear box oil. Got 3 litres of Motul Gear 300 online for £39 and it took my local mechanic an hour to do, so all in less than £100. The gear shift action is definitely improved, much smoother action and less notchy. Would definitely recommend if you haven't had it done already.
  13. You can click on Menu /Account / Manage Followed Content
  14. You can email Gert at info@carnewal.com. Defo recommend the trip to Belgium to sort those bolts out and fit a GT exhaust!
  15. My other half recently bought a Toyota Yaris hybrid and I have to say as a commuting tool its ideal - I find myself trying to keep it in electric only mode for as long as possible with tiny prods of the accelerator - the complete opposite to when I take the Cayman out for a spin! So I'm OK with a primarily electric car future as long as there is still a place for old codgers like me who need their combustion engine fix at the weekend!
  16. Yes maybe the term 'investment' wasn't the best choice of words! I suppose I was just wondering if others also thought that the Cayman had bottomed out, based on historical values.
  17. When I first started looking at buying a 987 Cayman 2 or 3 years back, they seemed to start at around the £10K mark, for a leggy early model. They seemed to then drop a bit to maybe £8.5K, but looking on autotrader/pistonheads recently there doesn't seem to anything available at any less than £9.5K . I wonder if the Cayman has bottomed out around the £10K mark, so would make a 'good' investment at that price (depreciation wise, not running costs!). Any thoughts?
  18. You could get in touch with Gert Carnewal about it, he does these all the time, and can probably supply you the parts, plus he does a great range of OEM exhaust tips: http://www.carnewal.com/products/987/p87024/Tail-Pipe-Black
  19. Some sound advice above! I have to admit that the (however small) potential for bore score (or IMS failure) was enough of risk for me at the time of buying my Cayman to rule out an S in favour of the 2.7, however the higher running costs (tax, insurance etc) were also a consideration! The scare stories are of course not just about the Cayman but all the models with the larger capacity M96/97 engines, which creates a lot of over inflated noise on the internet - as ever, you only ever hear about the ones that go wrong, not all those that are working perfectly! If I was in the market for an S today, I would carry out due diligence (borescope, professional inspection, history etc), but I would also make sure that if the worst happened I had a plan (and enough money) to resolve it to my advantage, i.e. a Hartech rebuild (oversized 3.9 perhaps?!), or maybe drop in one of those LS3 V8 engines!! 😁 https://www.hartech.org/oversized-engines
  20. I bought one of these for too, for my godson - was less than a tenner in Debenhams before Xmas - when I saw it put together, I wanted one!! Now they are indeed harder to find, but John Lewis still have some £13 + delivery https://www.johnlewis.com/lego-speed-champions-75895-1974-porsche-911-turbo-3-0
  21. Great work Craig, will be good to meet up again, Beaulieu is always a good day out
  22. OK. so Sprint Booster successfully installed and tested over the Xmas period.... and I have to say I am massively impressed. To me, as with the lowered suspension, I think this is the way the car should have been setup straight out of the factory. I'm running it on the standard middle setting - Sport 5 - and it seems to be just the right balance between immediacy of throttle response without being so sensitive that it's difficult to drive smoothly, and most importantly, the annoying 'lag' of the fly by wire is gone. It feels like the car has an extra 50bhp off the line - which of course it doesn't - but the way the power is delivered so quickly now is amazing. I've installed the little remote on the dash as I wanted to be able to change the settings back to normal so I could remind myself what a difference it makes! Its a relatively easy install, which took about 45 mins for me, mostly due to trying to figure out how to remove the throttle cable connector. This is a great guide to give a general overview of the process: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/997/196447-installed-sprint-booster-my-997-c2-instructions-w-pics.html Only a couple of issues I found which may be of help to others, to add to Syers advice: when removing the throttle pedal assembly, after removing the single screw, you have to pull the whole unit up and back, towards the bulkhead - I was trying to pull straight up and wondering why it was so difficult to shift (I was being a bit dim!) as others have mentioned, releasing the electrical connector is the biggest PIA - I found a suggestion else where to use adjustable pliers to prise the grey clip down, which worked perfectly for me - see here: https://www.planet-9.com/threads/accelerator-pedal-electronics-connector.231162/ as previously mentioned, the included cable tie is far too small, so have a bigger one available to tie the unit out of the way behind the throttle pedal the wire for the remote can be easily threaded under the steering column to enable the controller to be installed next to the steering wheel, if you so desire! For £150ish and less than an hour to fit I think this is an excellent mod!
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