eponymoose

OK, I will probably be interested...! Just trying to source a car currently...

Your car still for sale: https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/10558565?cId=10663537&cId=10684396&cId=10691141&cId=10705993&cId=10360985&cId=10079187&cId=10079188&cId=10430653&cId=10466723&cId=10560150&cId=10634535&cId=10720933&cId=10719096&cId=10719135&cId=10558563&cId=10558565&cId=9941581&cId=10632796&cId=10632883&cId=10631726&cId=9474157&cId=10718690&cId=10716425 Was relisted / bumped to top of PH yesterday.

What would be the cost of the kit? Thanks.

Not sure if you can get them other than through OPC. Spyder springs are slightly different I believe.

Looks completely fantastic. Always a bit disappointed that the factory car didn't have an aluminium rear boot lid to match the aluminium front lid...

Cayman R springs are another option and the one I would favour. I've some experience with both the H&R and Eibach srpings on the 987 Cayman. I think they both lower the front axle too much. Eibach are worse than H&R for that. Cayman R springs are as low as you can go without running into Geometry issues. Which isn't to say the H&R springs are a disaster. But I think the R springs are a better compromise unless you mainly want it to look low and are less concerned with the dynamics.

Prices quoted for 987s generally are a bit toppy. The only gen one's above £20k are Sports, which aren't worth the money. 911Virgin had a 40k mile 987.1 3.4 for £18k last week. And you should not be paying more than an outfit like that charges. That's the very top of the market. If you're paying more, you are over paying. Privately, you can buy a stellar 987.1 3.4 for £14-15k. I know, I've declined two in the last week that were both in superb condition for that price. Re 987.2 the likes of Steve Bull and again 911V have had fairly low mile high spec cars on for about £25k in recent weeks, so that represents an absolute upper bound sanity check price. You should be paying far less than that privately, probabaly £5k less, and significantly less than that to a lesser known dealer.

It's not noises or whines that will tell you the plates are worn. It'll just more or less start operating like an open diff. Not straight forward to pin point in driving. if it's properly worn, you should be able to jack one of the rear wheels leaving other on the ground and turn it (with hand brake off). If it's not longer locking, you'll be able turn, otherwise, it should hook up as you turn the wheel. I confess I haven't tried that on a known worn LSD, so can't really confirm how it manifests. But the point about noise remains. An LSD that no longer locks due to plate wear won't be noisy. Did you buy the red one from Evo Motors?

Don't want a 981, which is a pity as it's easier to find one with the spec I would want. But not keen on the 981 drive, sadly. Nice cars, but not to my taste. Some of the things I want are unsuitable for for retrofit. other's I'd rather have the factory version. Obviously, we're not talking about trivia like wheels and cruise control.

Not well. I happened to have been looking since August last year for a friend, so I know how few in the spec I want come up. It's been several months since I saw one that would have suited. Have only been looking seriously for me for a few weeks. Strictly speaking, since August last year, haven't seen a single gen two with the spec I want for sale. Obviously, the gen 2 cars are lower volume, but they're not that rare and there are quite a few for sale, but the problem is that they generally have crap spec. Perhaps because WFC, I don't know. Meanwhile, there are zillions of gen ones with the spec I'd want - probably at least five with absolutely ideal spec and 20 with spec I'd accept. I've been viewing a few gen one cars. Seeing some more tomorrow, probably. I'd rather have an ideal gen one than a gen two in a spec I don't want. The problem is that if the right car comes up but it's over priced, what do I do? That's one reason why I'm looking gen one as well. To avoid falling into the trap of over paying massively. If I see a gen one I really like, I'll go for it. I'd rather be enjoying a gen one now than spend 18 months waiting for the perfect car. And then paying way over the odds for it because I didn't want to miss it! I'll let fate decide. If I find the ideal gen one, I'll go for it. And obviously I'll jump on any gen 2 that pops up, but I won't pay crazy money for it.

OP's car is a gen one, so I was talking about a gen one and indeed specified M97.

My understanding is that the headers on the 3.4 are particularly poor, so I think you should be able to make good gains given you have upgraded headers. The other bits I doubt will make any difference, but with a remap I'd be surprised (assuming healthy engine) you weren't getting at least 15hp up top from the headers. I believe the 3.4 has the same heads as the larger M97 engines, so the intake side is pretty good. It's primarily the headers that restrict power at high revs, again I believe. This may contribute to the IPD plenum returning poor results. If the headers are very restrictive, no amount of imrpovement on the intake side is going to do much at the top end.

G'day fellow Croc fanatics. Decided to get another Croc, so am seeking a manual gen 2 3.4. If anyone has been pondering selling, please let me know. Thanks!

Whoops, sorry. You asked about H&R springs. With those springs, definitely the B8 shocks with the shorter body.

The B8, which has a slightly shorter body. However, I have not paired B8 with R springs myself, so am not 100 per cent on that. B6 is the sport Bilstein shock with standard body length. I am pretty sure the B8 would be the best match with the R springs, which are a 20mm drop.