Jump to content


Standard Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Country

    United Kingdom

Lennym1984 last won the day on May 27

Lennym1984 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

38 Geek

About Lennym1984

  • Rank
    Established Member


  • My Ride
    Jaguar XE, 987.1 Cayman 2.7, RIP Boxster
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yeah I saw your posts over on pistonheads. Good luck with the search - a Harteched gen1 would be a lot of fun but it really needs the right car at the right price in order to make the economics stack up. I didn't respond to your post about the coolant pipes but - in case it isn't covered - it actually isn't as bad a job as people make out. I did it without dropping the subframe but it would have been less fiddly if I had just dropped it
  2. Hi, It would probably end up being around 175 quid for the toe links or ~£190 with the eccentric lockouts (basically just a couple of m12 bolts, nuts and cut down washers - easy to do yourself). If I could make a 100 of them the cost would be much lower but the rod ends and tie rod attachment bits are quite pricey when you buy them in small quantities. I only really did this to save money (and because I wanted a proper balljoint on the hub end like the Porsche GT3 cup jobbies).
  3. After my original toe links (or more accurately the eccentrics and their clips) fell prey to a ham fisted wheel alignment "specialist" I figured that I may as well take the opportunity to upgrade to adjustable toe links. There are various aftermarket options out there but they tend to be quite pricey (£300+) for what is actually a fairly simple part. So in true Blue Peter style I made my own (well actually researched, bought, and then assembled the parts to make my own). https://photos.app.goo.gl/HUHtJajtaU7yKyUh8 The rod ends now have boots fitted but they don't look as pretty (they look a bit like they are wearing gimp masks) I had the car setup yesterday and I'm pleased to say that it all works well and gives around 14mm of safe on car adjustment (you could probably go further but I wanted to ensure at least 1.5x thread engagement) and probably an additional 10mm if you screw/unscrew the tie rod end side a bit more when you are fitting them. I had to cut down the adjuster slightly and was too lazy to do it on both sides (hence the adjuster isn't in the middle) but when I next have them off, I'll remedy that. Both sides have maximum thread engagement but from an aesthetic perspective it would be nice to have them in the middle. With all bolts and fittings (including the eccentric "lock out"/removal pieces) it costs me significantly less than buying them so I'm pretty happy. If anybody is interested I'd be happy to put a few more kits together (I had to buy a few parts in bulk).
  4. After a wheel alignment place managed to destroy my rear toe eccentrics by yanking on a seized adjuster, I figured I'd upgrade the arms with Tie rod style adjustable links. The price of these for what they are is crazy so I did some research and built my own (more accurately assembled) With eccentric lockouts they still cost me considerably less than the aftermarket ones and they offer around 14mm of "on car" adjustment with the option of an extra 10mm of off car adjustment. Got the car aligned yesterday and all good! When they're next off I'm going to trim the adjuster bolt so that it sits in the centre but from a thread engagement perspective, it's purely aesthetic https://photos.app.goo.gl/HUHtJajtaU7yKyUh8
  5. Yeah I hadn't heard of them either but went ahead and ordered various parts from them. The service was excellent, parts arrived really quickly, and the prices felt about right (I cross checked a few things with a local OPC and they were pretty similar). I'll let you know how I get on with that setup but it'll probably be a few months before I get round to it
  6. Eurospares have then listed on their website for about 450 quid. It's pricey but like the above, it feels like the best compromise. When I finally build up the motivation, I'll be fitting b8s with r springs (I have the shocks sat gathering dust in my shed)
  7. The front ones for the 987 are not the same as the rears (the thrust puck is thicker). The rears are the same as the ones on the front AND back of the previous generation (986) Boxster. I hope that helps.
  8. What camber are you running??? I thought you could get to around - 2.5 with the adjustable LCAs?
  9. If you have adjustable LCAs, why don't you just add more shims?
  10. What camber were you running before? I may have a solution that will allow you to keep the strut brace but you'll be limited to 1.5-1.75 depending on how low you are ETA: scratch that, I see you already have the gt3 LCAs
  11. Obviously be careful cleaning it... You don't want to touch the wire at all. Electrical contract cleaner works well. If the MAF readings look fine, then that probably isn't the cause
  12. You can check the MAF readings on the free version of the Torque app. I can't remember what the reading should be for the different engines (maybe something like 14m/s at idle) but it'll be kind of obvious if it isn't working (zero reading or wrong m/s readings). Torque will also tell you the codes
  13. The easiest way to diagnose the MAF is to unplug it and see if the car runs better (it'll go to a sort of default mode). If there is no change then it probably isn't the problem. That said, I agree with GlosRich. Now maybe the time for a second opinion as simply throwing more parts at it, may not fix the underlying cause
  14. Apparently they look a bit crap so I'm having second thoughts about it
  15. Where did you get the r springs? I have a set of b8s in the shed which I need to fit at some point. I want to pair them with r springs like you. How does that setup work? Good?
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.