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Lennym1984 last won the day on December 23 2020

Lennym1984 had the most liked content!

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About Lennym1984

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    Jaguar XE, 987.1 Cayman 2.7, RIP Boxster
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  1. Hi, Has anybody used 17s on track? I have 18s on my 987 (2.7) and on track they perform very well with plenty of grip and good "progressiveness" (even with an aggresive geo). I also have a set of 17s in the shed which I used to use when tracking my old Boxster (they're 986 wheels but fit the 987 with a 5mm spacer on the rear). I've tried them quite a few times on the Cayman and on public roads they are great (they make the 18s feel like the car is wearing lead boots), they're also significantly lighter (no idea how much but it is very noticeable just when moving them about). The is
  2. That looks super low up front. Was the tyre completely tucked or is that just the photo? How many fingers gap was it
  3. It depends on your specific car. Mine had 6mm pads all round but some will have 3mm. The springs are colour coded and tell you what pads you need. Blue spots are 6mm @sevenfourate if you want the 2 3mm pads I have (to raise your eibachs a little further on front) send me your address and I'll put them in the post. You can stack them as eponymoose has alluded to
  4. As an update to this (and to prevent others from making the same mistake), despite my Cayman settling and looking much more normal, I kept catching the front mudflaps on a particularly aggressive speed bump near me. After a bit of investigation (working through all of the front suspension components), I eventually realised that I had fitted the wrong spring pads for the Cayman R springs. The Bilstein B8s I bought (used) had come from the B12 kit and used the 3mm pads up front. I had transferred these over but the shocks I removed from my car (and indeed the Cayman R) call for the 6
  5. Thanks for your thoughts. Its not a daily (I have a comfortable barge for daily duties) but I am sickert for heated seats. I keep looking at the nogaros but I can't decide whether I can justify the cost
  6. I'm currently pondering whether or not to fit bucket seats (fixed back) to my car. I find the stock (standard comfort) seats fine on the road but not really supportive enough on track. My conundrum is that a) I'm probably only going to manage 5-6 track days per year for the next few years b) I do track days for fun and whilst I'm reasonably competent, I probably only drive at 8/10th (my main priority is to leave in the car I arrived in) so maybe buckets are overkill c) I like my heated seats and d) ill have to faff around with disabling airbag lights. I'm trying to wo
  7. I love in long hanborough near witney and need to do my condensers at some point before the summer. I've done them previously and they are dead easy (I think I spent more time cleaning out debris than I did actually doing the work). Once lock down is over, we could do them together if you want help? Probably best to find a weekend when my wife and kids are out though (I think my wife thinks that 1 porsche disassembled on the driveway is already 1 too many) ETA: I also have a GT3 MC to fit although most likely I'll do that in the next few weeks. You are welcome to use my scanner to
  8. It's not hard at all. You'll need a ball joint splitter and a few basic tools. You will need an alignment afterwards but the job itself it probably 1-2 hours per side.
  9. To close this off, I ended up going : 1.7 camber front, 0 toe, 7.5 caster 1.5 camber rear, 5' toe in per side, 0 thrust (obvs) The car now feels much more civilised and more like a track capable road car rather than a road capable track car. I'll be interested to see how the front shoulders fare on track but either way it was going to be a compromise one way or another. I also raised the front end a little using 6mm (vs 3mm I had on there originally) compensation plates. Despite being a tiny increase, the added rubber has improved compliance and the f
  10. Sounds a bit "fishy" to me. Let's hope that "sole" didn't buy a lemon
  11. That's actually the reason I bought mine when I did. I could already foresee the issue post brexit (and I too think it is an incredibly stupid idea)
  12. It isn't needed but yes it might be good. The Cayman R is mechanically identical to a normal 987.2 Cayman with the exception of different shocks/springs, a remap, and aluminium doors
  13. It won't make much difference. There is a lot of rear camber to balance out the increased front camber so I'd guess that it'll still tend towards understeer at the limits. If you are reaching those limits on the road then you probably have bigger things (like a prison sentence) to worry about
  14. The issue you'll have is on the rear where you'll have to run more camber to bring the toe into spec. Otherwise you may want to look at the Cayman R geo. It looks okay for a fully road based car
  15. Thanks, the rear feels okay (and wears okay) so I think I'll probably focus on the front (I have adjustable toe links at the rear so can get away with less camber from an adjustment perspective). I think a little less on front will help on the road but to be honest the roads near me really are appalling and even my jaguar jumps around on them
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