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Everything posted by Lennym1984

  1. Sorry I forgot to respond to this but the ride height looks fine now and based on my before/after measurements is only around ~23mm lower on each axle (hence i haven't really given it much more thought). That said, the Cayman R dampers (and part numbers) are different from a standard Cayman/Cayman S damper and apparently have a shorter shock body. Having done more miles now, I'd say that the ride was definitely stiffer but less crashy. The handling is significantly improved but some of this will be down to the geo it is now running.
  2. ...And a Cayman R for reference (not mine...sadly)
  3. I have my car lowered on Cayman R springs with B8 dampers and it isn't that low. There is a clear arch gap front and rear whereas your looks quite "tucked" on the front. Based on my before/after measurements, mine now sits ~23mm lower than standard. Provided that you drive carefully, there is no scraping on speed bumps (and even if you don't, it is just the edge of the front flap bits). Mine has a lot of camber up front so looks a little lower than it really is but the arch gap is 2 fingers on front and 3 on rear.
  4. I think that's a good thing though. The different instructors will have different driving styles and you tend to learn something from each of them. You then have to decide what works for you (ie. Their instruction is guidance rather than rule)
  5. You might be right. I'll give it a few weeks and then tweak the camber and see what I think. Other than the added camber (and added LCA length) I can't think of anything that would cause it.
  6. It has the standard top mounts. As mentioned though, it is running quite a lot (a little too much at the moment) camber on the front which will make the outer edge of the wheel look closer to the wheel arch edge. With normal camber (~0.75 degrees) the arch gap should look ~15mm higher on the front (so flipping it the other way, it currently *looks* as though it is lowered 20mm on the rear and 35mm on the front). The actual ride height shouldn't be any different (assuming minimal tyre deflection). I'll dial the camber back to ~1.8 at some point. It'll still look a little lower on th
  7. Using a bit of trig, I've worked out that the front 'looks' 15-20mm lower than it actually is.its a bit of an optical illusion but this should give you an idea on what it'd look like without the camber (I assumed 0.75 degrees as my baseline)
  8. I have powerflex camber bushes (they came as part of a kit) which push the coffin arms out. They're actually really good... I just wasn't expecting that much when I told them to "max out the front."
  9. 2' toe at the front, 2 degrees 15 minutes camber (i'll bring this back to under 2 in the next few months), 5' toe in the rear with 1.6 degrees of camber. The front camber makes the wheel look 'tucked' but it actually isn't that low.
  10. I've just noticed that those photos make it look incredibly low at the front. It is quite low (probably exaggerated by the camber it's currently running) but not scraping the floor like it looks. The gravel at that place is higher where the front is, it's also very deep
  11. ... And photos https://ibb.co/Prj84KY https://ibb.co/pPbTc43 https://ibb.co/sRvZSFw
  12. I'll take some today. It's now been aligned and is an absolute weapon. It's definitely a lot stiffer but it feels far more composed and less unsettled on poor surfaces. The handling is fantastic and the way it changes direction is immense. I'll probably dial back the alignment in a few months but it is currently running 2.2 degrees camber up front and 1.6 on the rear. That should save the tyres on track but a) it'll probably kill them on the road and b)I'd like to redress the front to rear ratio (maybe go 1.8 on front and 1.6 on rear). I'll upload some ph
  13. Mine is a weekend/track day car only so I'm not too worried about ease of access but that aside, the nogaro is one of my favourite designs.
  14. Nice. I may order a set from you in a few months
  15. Do these bolt straight up tothe stock mounting points (looking at them it seems as though they will)?
  16. I have track day cover with A-Plan (who are amazing) and it costs £200 per year for 5 days. I don't know whether it covers international circuits but worth a look. When I went to the ring back in 2010 we just risked it but I no longer have the courage/stupidity for that. Speaking truthfully, I'd actually be a bit scared to really push it on the ring these days - it's a pretty mad place and I've had enough tank slappers on UK tracks with plenty of run off to make me realise that I probably don't have enough talent for a fast lap of the ring (when I first went it was my first real "t
  17. Here you go: 98734353140504 98733353196504 That's for a manual Cayman R or (so I've read) a PDK boxster Spyder (which kind of makes sense)
  18. Yeah I hear you on that one! I was explaining to somebody recently that on a poorly surfaced road, I could probably navigate it quicker in my jaguar purely due to the better damping. I used to have a 2.5 986 and - as you say - on bad roads the suspension was far more compliant (on track the Cayman is in a different league though). The new setup feels far more compliant. Stiff but well damped.
  19. On the front it is 2 fingers and on the rear about 3. I am running increased camber on the front which will also contribute to the slightly lower height. I bought the springs from Eurospares who I cannot recommend enough. Their prices seem to be very similar to (if not the same as) OPC and the delivery is quick. They cost me about £430, which is obviously a little more than something like H&R or Eibach, but I figured it was worth paying for what I actually wanted rather than what I thought 'would do.'
  20. Given that we don't live too far away you're welcome to come for a ride in it once it is setup. I've probably driven it about 50 miles so far and the damping is much better. On crap roads it feels far less skittish and far less like you are bouncing over the top of the bumps (if you see what I mean). It's a noticeable and quite surprising improvement (I was sort of expecting the lower, stiffer springs to give better handling but a worse ride - I was okay with this compromise given that I do a reasonable number of track days)
  21. I don't have any photos to hand but I will take a few at some point (my other car is currently blocking it). Certainly it looks lower but it doesn't look 'lowered' (if you see what I mean)
  22. I can't remember who asked but I said that I would share my thoughts once I had fitted the Cayman R springs and Bilstein B8s to my 987 2.7. So here goes... First off it is worth me pointing out a few things: 1. My old springs/shocks had 100k on them and so probably aren't a great benchmark 2. At the same time as installing the shocks/springs, I changed all of the rear arms (with polybushed coffin arms to match the front) 3. I am yet to have the car properly aligned (the ramp at my local place needs new software and my backup has closed permanently due to COVID). I 's
  23. Do you have an o2 sensor socket? If not and if you're near Oxford, you can borrow mine
  24. Having done this in the past, my advice would be to take it to an exhaust place (that is what I ended up doing). The sensors weld themselves to the exhaust and in many cases need to be drilled out. I paid £100 for a local place to do it for me after eventually having to admit defeat. That said, others have been lucky so, "you feelin' lucky?"
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