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Bushman last won the day on May 7

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About Bushman

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    Distinguished Member


  • My Ride
    987.1 Cayman S
  • Location
    Bedford, UK

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  1. reassembled all joints from airbox onwards to plenums with good old Vaseline to eliminate air leaks, no difference. Tonite I thought I world change the primary Lambda sensors as faulty ones are known to throw flashing CELs. Two sweaty hrs later, they aint coming out. in fact, they would be less corroded if I had removed them from the Mary Rose.. the whole exhaust from the headers back to where it joins my home made stainless tailpipe looks pretty corroded. 4 hard years of 365 driving and exposure to winter salt hasnt helped. Think I will have to bite the bullet and splash out on Stainless headers and actually get round to building the 3inch stainless system that I started 2 years ago. Not sure it will help with the misfire issues but looks like it needs doing anyway.
  2. stripped and cleaned the MAF, tried the trick of running the engine with it unplugged but it ran worse. got good readings from live OBD on the MAF gauge varying from 1.2 to 14+. so it not the MAF. Back to the drawing board then!!
  3. thanks all, its defo not mechanical as a mechanical issue of any description would not instantly go away be switching off and re-starting the engine. when running on all 6, it purrs all the way past 7000 rpm, pulls strongly , no smoke, normal temps. OBD states random misfires, mainly on 1 and 3. on my Dash Command ( similar to Torque) app via a bluetooth OBD reader, realtime monitoring shows timing floating all over the place at low revs. Olive, thats an incredibly kind offer, both for first refusal on your spare one and offering to allow me to swap MAFs, much respect. Glosrich, its been on 3 diagnostic machines with Porsche software ( not Porsche specialists though), all came back inconclusive but all indicating that the Variocam solenoids were suspect. we thought it was bank 2 variable valve lift solenoid first so swapped it over with bank 1 and the random misfires moves from 4 and 6 to 1 and 3. thought we had nailed it then so changed both solenoids but it only ran properly for an hr or so, an indy then told us that they never just change the lift solenoids on their own but always changed the variable timing solenoids as well. so we did. I found quite a lot of oil in the intake by the throttle body so changed the AOS. all good stuff but hasnt fixed it. tomorrow is a day off so I will collect MAF readings and strip and clean it before I commit to a replacement. all great responses though guys, cheers for that
  4. has any body out there in Crocland got a spare working MAF sensor for a 987.1 that they want to part with please. my ongoing woes of random misfires when not fully warmed up and having to drive for 5 miles or so into each journey before it will run on all 6 at low revs, might just be caused by a naff MAF. cost me a fortune so far replacing all 4 Variocam solenoids, new plugs and coils, new AOS, engine flush, new oil and filter and replacement pre cat lambda sensors. engine starts perfectly every time, no smoke, purrs on six for a minute then drops onto 4, rev it up to over 2k, back on 6. if i let the revs drop whilst driving to below 1500 rpm, back to 4 cyls and sometimes stays on 4 regardless, wont tick over and sounds like a high mileage Beetle. switch it off then restart it, straight back in all 6 again, very baffling and getting really pi**ed off. other forums have indicated that a dirty or dead MAF sensor might cause similar issues. So if any body has a spare one for sale, please give me first option on it. cheers all. Steve
  5. hi guys, I had "trunk clunk" when I first got my Croc 4 years ago, when I stripped the lid trim off sometime later to fit the rear spoiler I found the mass damper wobbling on its rubber mounts and would clonk the lid when moved hard. I loosened if off and put foam tape underneath, the black closed cell tape with adhesive on one side that's about 6mm thick and probably 20-25mm wide (RS Components). then tightened it all back up again. Sorted, never has another clonk since. hope this might help.
  6. Good luck to you Sir, hope it works out. love the designs.
  7. ring in and speak to Martin.
  8. Big shout to Martin M from Design 911 for getting me a pair of Variocam +camshaft actuators in from Germany as promised and delivered in less than 7 days. with COC discount, came in cheaper than all other quotes too. Thanks Martin. highly recommended if you need parts. going to get them fitted on Tuesday morning, will be happy to have a 6 banger back on the road. just as well I have been able to work from home.
  9. on recommendation from a mate who owns Fast Eddie's in Norwich and preps track and race cars including his own 986 Poxster, I fitted a Pipercross replacement element in the stock airbox, not sure if there are gains on a road car cos you dont spend enough time up in the revs, sounds good though. I fitted side scoops a couple of years ago to mine, not so much for ram air gains which there definitely is, but for looks, I love the proper gt4 type scoops and dont like 987 side grilles. to test the ram air theory, one evening after hrs at work, we bent a piece of ali sheet to the rough size and shape of my scoops and screwed it to a piece of ply with a 100mm holesawed hole underneath. we put this on a blower rig ( normally used to cool our vibration test rig), with the wood in line with the airflow. the blast that came through the hole was quite substantial but we didnt measure it. did the same without the scoop and actually got negative flow across the hole and it created a slight vacuum. that was good enough for me.
  10. thanks guys. Rich, battery is fairly new and is a high ampage Bosch. alternator is fine.
  11. after parking up my lil S for a week or so at work whilst I was away on business, I came back to a random misfire mainly on 4 and 6 according to my OBD reader. starts beautifully every time, runs perfectly for a couple of miles then drops either 1 or 2 cyls whilst at low revs. the CEL flashes a few times. if I am quick enough, reving it up over 3000 rpm brings 6 cyls back in most times but as soon as the revs drop, back on 4. switch the car off then restart it, straight back on 6, back to normal for a while. resetting the fault with the ign eliminates shitty fuel so I thought cracked plug top coils. just got my tame mechy with a 4 poster to change my plugs and fit British made uprated Benchmark coils and whilst he was at it, a cam position sensor. This was flagged on several forums from all around the world as it appears that this exact fault is quite common but nobody seems to conclusively pin it down to a particular fault, but cam position sensors were a likely candidate. On the way home, same fault. The service centre next to my tame mechy had all the latest Porsche diagnostic software on his machine, loves Porkers but didn't just want to restrict himself to one brand so does all German makes. anyway, he diagnosed camshaft position solenoids as the problem. Some research suggests that before replacing them as they are about £250 each, to remove them and give them good solvent clean as the mesh filter gauze inside gets blocked with oil sludges and deposits and the solenoids stick. Question, has anybody else come across this issue and did cleaning out the solenoids cure the problem. cheers guys.
  12. Hi Jason. all bolts stretch, between the point where the thread stops and the underside of the head. there is a little bit of stretch on the last threads nearest the head too but this decreases to constant over about 1d. ( thread depth equals thread diameter..This elastic property is controlled by the stated torque figures that have been worked out over many years and on many different materials and alloys. correctly torqued bolts stay well inside this elastic boundary and it can be repeated many times. Age and vibration however can change the material properties, making them less elastic and prone to stress corrosion cracking. Stainless fasteners are especially prone to this. high tensile bolts (12/9) for example, normally found in Unbreko socket cap head bolts or similar will take much higher torque loadings whereas studding stretches like knicker elastic as it is really soft. stretch bolts, often found in engine manufacturing, should only be torqued up once and discarded after stripdown. hope this helps mate.
  13. its fairly well known that using an assembly compound like copaslip or aluslip will actually help to achieve the correct torque values as it does reduce the friction between the mating parts allowing the correct stretch to take place on the bolt thread. it is this stretch that keeps the bolt tight. dry threads will cause a peak in torque that misleads you to believe the bolt is correctly tight. vibration will wear down the rough spots as there will be minute movements and the bolt will shake loose. unlike grease and oil, these pastes are not a lubricant in the traditional sense.
  14. I used to have a fair bit of trouble setting up tuned bike engines when we fitted K&Ns, bearing this in mind I went for a Pipercross race filter in my Croc. seems ok, no real noticeable increase in ponies and not toooo much induction roar. (can you have too much??)
  15. Hi Keith, will try and contact them, the contact I had, the airfield manager has evidently left so working a new liaison
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