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Bushman last won the day on December 19 2018

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129 Geek

About Bushman

  • Rank
    Senior Member


  • My Ride
    987.1 Cayman S
  • Location
    Bedford, UK

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  1. Keith, fit a jump point external connector to prevent this happening again. If you want an Idea ( that worked for me) I posted one under "flat as a witches t*t" some time back. It does appear to be a common problem. A, that the Caymans and Boxsters flatten batteries after a couple of weeks of zero use and B, that the fusebox link rarely works with dead flat batteries.IMG_2109.HEICIMG_2108.HEIC
  2. 57 sounds ok for Heinz or Wesley Snipes but might be a bit large for the access hole. an accurately drilled 45mm hole should be enough.
  3. I;ve known Cerey from Seat Belt Services for many years, great bloke, a master at making harnesses and straps. good reputation for custom seat belts. He is based just north of Bedford in Keysoe.
  4. just done my gearbox oil change. I used about 3 litres of Motul 75w90 motylgear. We had to remove the rear chassis braces and gearbox protection plate to get access to the drain plug. I should have taken the opportunity to drill an access hole to facilitate the next one but didn't really have a chance, then thought that the next change wouldn't be for at least 4 years, so sod it. If it helps anybody here though, to save having to remove the chassis braces (which are prone to strip seized mounting bolts) You can carefully holesaw a 40mm to 50mm diameter hole through the aluminium bash plate to gain access to the drain plug. Position wise, the hole centre needs to be 19mm (3/4 inch) to the LHS, nearside or kerbside on a UK car, of the existing small drain hole centre and about 6mm (1/4 inch) in front of this small hole. I suggest you slide a piece of steel plate between the gearbox and bash plate to prevent damage to the gearbox with the drill. you also need a short centre drill in the holesaw. We had to thoroughly soak all the chassis bolts in penetrating oil for a good 24 hours to reduce the risk of snapping or stripping the mounting bolts for the braces before we dared to try and remove them but they all came undone ok in the end. The old oil must have done at least 20K miles, maybe lots more. considering, it wasn't a bad colour and didn't glisten with metal particles either but it did Bloody stink!!. We did it on my mate Kali's 4 post lift whilst the old girl was in for a good service and MOT. wouldn't like to do it on the floor. Not that I could get my Xmas belly anywhere near the underside of one of Mr Porsche's finest.
  5. Not sure I fully agree with the above statements. A wet disc at slow speed ( like driving through a flood) will not brake well until the pad has pushed all the water out from between it and the disc and then got a bit of heat back in there to boil off the rest, as water acts like a lubricant. under these conditions, vent holes or radial slots will give the water a quick route to be pushed into away from the pad surface quicker than being pushed to the outer edges where there is often a lip. once the discs spin up then yes, centrifugal force will throw water off the rotors. Vented discs also suck in air from the centre or in through these holes, the internal vanes acting like the compressor blades of a turbo that will then help throw the air outwards between the rotor plates to keep cool air flowing, taking moisture and contaminants with it. The very slight loss of disc surface area in contact with the pads over a solid flat disc is probably less than 3 or 4 percent. So technically, yes, there is a reduction in braking efficiency but the benefits of a quicker drying surface probably outweigh this small deficit. The next issue is not water but dust and grit. holes or slots will allow grit to be swept away by the leading edges of the pads into the holes before they get rammed in-between the pad and disc. I just cant believe that every car and bike manufacturer and race car company would go to the extra expense of drilling or machining rotors if they really didn't need to or there was no advantage in doing so. Just my thoughts though, with my engineering head on.
  6. All the best to you all in Caymanland.
  7. Ive never seen or heard of canbus errors on these Nighteyes
  8. it is worth playing with the Nighteyes bulb positions within the mounts to get the best beams. I did mine off the car by using a workmate, white board, dry-marker pens and a battery booster pack to map the thrown beams then move the bulbs around to get the closest match yo the OE halogens. I ended up needle filing the bayonets to rotate the bulbs a bit more.
  9. nice. I got my side scoops so they are now painted and fitted, just got to do the Sikaflex 'gasket' when the weather is betterIMG_2102.HEICIMG_2102.HEICIMG_2102.HEICIMG_2102.HEICIMG_2102.HEICIMG_2102.HEICIMG_2102.HEICIMG_2102.HEICIMG_2102.HEIC
  10. Merry Xmas Nick and Louise. Nick, when you get five, no rush, Ive been to Sywell and scoped out another venue and would like to discuss sometime over an ale. Steve

  11. sounds about normal to me. the temp gauge should normally sit bang on or very close to 80 on the gauge but the engine bay temp will go up a bit after the car is stopped and shut down, especially in a garage. there are radiator fans at the front that will kick in and a cooling fan in the engine bay that pulls in air from the RH side scoop, if the engine bay gets too hot.
  12. I use Motul oils and coolant and find all really good. the oil is Xcess 8100 full synthetic 5w40, gearbox runs on Motyl Gear 75w90 and coolant is Inugel Optimal Ultra concentrate organic at about 30%.
  13. Ive seen the double switch pod for sale on Ebay for a few quid, just type in Porsche 987 switches.

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