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Everything posted by Bushman

  1. if it helps Andygo. if you want to replace your halogens with HIDs I am fairly confident in stating that you also need to fit headlight levelers and headlamp washers. without these it will be picked up by an MOT tester as a conversion and fail the test. That's why I went down the LED route. whilst not everybody likes the ultrawhite LED light output and the higher frequency light emission dissipates quicker than lower frequency halogen/xenon gas filament bulbs, I think that they are a vast improvement over standard.
  2. Hi Boxman. the mains were 600K Nighteyes fan cooled H9/11 LED units. I wish they were 500k, they wouldnt look quite so blue/white but being a slightly lower frequency would have given them better long range. still better than the originals though. prepare to play with the bulb positions to get the best beam results. u can rotate them a bit in their bayonet mount sleeves. there is not enough room for fan cooled in the fogs so i just used LED replacements with Cree elements all over them. I also replaced the side light bulbs with LED but had to remove the little internal reflector cap insid
  3. Hi Nick. on the trip home from the barn, it didnt throw up the constant CES light errors or want to drop onto 4 cyls at low revs., but was only a 10 mile sedate journey. Ive changed two of the lambda sensors and will probably replace the other two as well, (it needed oxy/act torch heat to get them all out). I suspect that some of my issues have been knackered cats and dodgy lambda sensors and having a large crack in one of the headers would not have helped. needs a proper drive to bed the pipes in and for the ECU to 'learn' the new setup. I will probably get it remapped as well, funds per
  4. Finally took a week off work, found a mate with a dry barn with a 4 post lift and a full engineering shop in it and got on with my replacement exhaust. stainless cat-less big bore headers (as one of mine had a 2 inch crack in it and the other one had a rattley heat shield), modified original style mid pipes to 200 cell sports cats, 60 degree 3 inch bore bends into 3 inch bore 12 inch long weld on SS silencer cans to my homemade 4.5 inch twin tails. Really happy with it all till I started it. lovely burble on tickover, a tentative blip, yep I thought, thats ok, so I ventured out on a test
  5. reassembled all joints from airbox onwards to plenums with good old Vaseline to eliminate air leaks, no difference. Tonite I thought I world change the primary Lambda sensors as faulty ones are known to throw flashing CELs. Two sweaty hrs later, they aint coming out. in fact, they would be less corroded if I had removed them from the Mary Rose.. the whole exhaust from the headers back to where it joins my home made stainless tailpipe looks pretty corroded. 4 hard years of 365 driving and exposure to winter salt hasnt helped. Think I will have to bite the bullet and splash out on Stainless head
  6. stripped and cleaned the MAF, tried the trick of running the engine with it unplugged but it ran worse. got good readings from live OBD on the MAF gauge varying from 1.2 to 14+. so it not the MAF. Back to the drawing board then!!
  7. thanks all, its defo not mechanical as a mechanical issue of any description would not instantly go away be switching off and re-starting the engine. when running on all 6, it purrs all the way past 7000 rpm, pulls strongly , no smoke, normal temps. OBD states random misfires, mainly on 1 and 3. on my Dash Command ( similar to Torque) app via a bluetooth OBD reader, realtime monitoring shows timing floating all over the place at low revs. Olive, thats an incredibly kind offer, both for first refusal on your spare one and offering to allow me to swap MAFs, much respect. Glosrich, its
  8. has any body out there in Crocland got a spare working MAF sensor for a 987.1 that they want to part with please. my ongoing woes of random misfires when not fully warmed up and having to drive for 5 miles or so into each journey before it will run on all 6 at low revs, might just be caused by a naff MAF. cost me a fortune so far replacing all 4 Variocam solenoids, new plugs and coils, new AOS, engine flush, new oil and filter and replacement pre cat lambda sensors. engine starts perfectly every time, no smoke, purrs on six for a minute then drops onto 4, rev it up to over 2k, back on 6. if i
  9. hi guys, I had "trunk clunk" when I first got my Croc 4 years ago, when I stripped the lid trim off sometime later to fit the rear spoiler I found the mass damper wobbling on its rubber mounts and would clonk the lid when moved hard. I loosened if off and put foam tape underneath, the black closed cell tape with adhesive on one side that's about 6mm thick and probably 20-25mm wide (RS Components). then tightened it all back up again. Sorted, never has another clonk since. hope this might help.
  10. Good luck to you Sir, hope it works out. love the designs.
  11. ring in and speak to Martin.
  12. Big shout to Martin M from Design 911 for getting me a pair of Variocam +camshaft actuators in from Germany as promised and delivered in less than 7 days. with COC discount, came in cheaper than all other quotes too. Thanks Martin. highly recommended if you need parts. going to get them fitted on Tuesday morning, will be happy to have a 6 banger back on the road. just as well I have been able to work from home.
  13. on recommendation from a mate who owns Fast Eddie's in Norwich and preps track and race cars including his own 986 Poxster, I fitted a Pipercross replacement element in the stock airbox, not sure if there are gains on a road car cos you dont spend enough time up in the revs, sounds good though. I fitted side scoops a couple of years ago to mine, not so much for ram air gains which there definitely is, but for looks, I love the proper gt4 type scoops and dont like 987 side grilles. to test the ram air theory, one evening after hrs at work, we bent a piece of ali sheet to the rough size an
  14. thanks guys. Rich, battery is fairly new and is a high ampage Bosch. alternator is fine.
  15. after parking up my lil S for a week or so at work whilst I was away on business, I came back to a random misfire mainly on 4 and 6 according to my OBD reader. starts beautifully every time, runs perfectly for a couple of miles then drops either 1 or 2 cyls whilst at low revs. the CEL flashes a few times. if I am quick enough, reving it up over 3000 rpm brings 6 cyls back in most times but as soon as the revs drop, back on 4. switch the car off then restart it, straight back on 6, back to normal for a while. resetting the fault with the ign eliminates shitty fuel so I thought cracked plug top
  16. Hi Jason. all bolts stretch, between the point where the thread stops and the underside of the head. there is a little bit of stretch on the last threads nearest the head too but this decreases to constant over about 1d. ( thread depth equals thread diameter..This elastic property is controlled by the stated torque figures that have been worked out over many years and on many different materials and alloys. correctly torqued bolts stay well inside this elastic boundary and it can be repeated many times. Age and vibration however can change the material properties, making them less elastic and
  17. its fairly well known that using an assembly compound like copaslip or aluslip will actually help to achieve the correct torque values as it does reduce the friction between the mating parts allowing the correct stretch to take place on the bolt thread. it is this stretch that keeps the bolt tight. dry threads will cause a peak in torque that misleads you to believe the bolt is correctly tight. vibration will wear down the rough spots as there will be minute movements and the bolt will shake loose. unlike grease and oil, these pastes are not a lubricant in the traditional sense.
  18. I used to have a fair bit of trouble setting up tuned bike engines when we fitted K&Ns, bearing this in mind I went for a Pipercross race filter in my Croc. seems ok, no real noticeable increase in ponies and not toooo much induction roar. (can you have too much??)
  19. Hi Keith, will try and contact them, the contact I had, the airfield manager has evidently left so working a new liaison
  20. I like the look of the bottom one, properly moulded panel. the top one looks like an mdf box covered in sidelining carpet and takes up a good bit of valuable space. I have seen posts from people who have put subwoofers and amps under the passenger seat.
  21. gates open at about 09:00 and the café opens about 09:30. SW are expecting a large entry from the MG fraternity so it will probably be busy in the café, my advice, for what it is worth, to get there early and form an orderly queue. If the weather is good, there may well be planes flying. I believe the museum entry price is £12, it will probably take well over an hour to see it all. If there is enough interest, I will try and arrange a brekkie meet up at Sywell nr Northampton for later on in the year, probably September sometime. thoughts on this one please
  22. I will pop in there on Monday morning and speak to the events management and see if can accommodate us for Sunday 28th. will keep you guys in the loop asap. Steve
  23. I could still do the 21st if it is still on. 28th works for me too
  24. 14th at Shuttleworth sounds good, count me in. thought I was going to be at Pendine blowing things up for half the month but it all got postponed so I am free at weekends again.
  25. Great pics Daz, thanks for sharing
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