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Hunter

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  • My Ride
    Cayman S 987.1
  • Location
    Hampshire

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  1. Sorry to hear about the poor experience - I've certainly heard a share of good and bad from people. Some seem to get treated like royalty. I have yet to bother with OPC... I figure a £13k car isn't worth the hassle, but then half the history is specialist already anyway. One note though: there's no reason for them not to have visually inspected the drive belt. It's very easy/straightforward! You could do it in 5-10 minutes. Unimpressed with the inconsistent stamping/box checking, though.
  2. Wheels are tough, and even tougher is justifying a higher price because they have tyres on them. If I were buying these, I'd be immediately swapping the rubber, and I suspect many others would too. A full new set of OEM wheels for this generation of car isn't much over £1k if I'm remembering correctly (though that admittedly might have been a different spoke style). At a guess I'd say these might fetch £600-700? But you never know, there might be somebody out there who just needs this style.
  3. Yeah, that's insane. I knew Brookspeed were expensive, but I'd never consider over £20k for a gen1, regardless of spec and mileage. In fact, 44,000 miles on a 13 year old car worries me more than 80,000 would. Here's a grey gen 2 for cheaper, at a less worrying 75,000 miles in 12 years. Okay, it's a private seller, but there's a comparatively tiny set of engine problems you need to be worried about. It's all of a mile away from the one you're considering seeing. Alternatively, there is a dealer-sold guards red gen 2 being sold for not much more, lower mileage but PDK and located near Oxford.
  4. Yeah, seems to be subsiding now the oil has been in a while. It "went" a couple more times after this post, but I've now not had it crunch for 2 weeks. Fingers crossed I can forget about it now... For the next 12 year service cycle, anyway.
  5. How badly (read: deeply) scratched are they? I restored mine recently with a wet sand from 400 grit and it removed hazing/smaller rock chips, but bigger defects are still there. Perhaps a more aggressive sand would remove your scratches, but it's hard to know without seeing their depth. Word to the wise: if you are going to sand your headlights, you need to finish up with a UV-blocking clear coat that's compatible with plastic. Otherwise your lights will yellow. Oh, and a polish obviously.
  6. That's surprisingly neat for 8 grand. I drove a 2005 with 60k mi on the clock that had worse interior wear. My indie reckons these engines will, well cared for, comfortably last past 200,000mi. Whether that's accurate, I'd love to know. I'd wager the fact that this car has been dailied has contributed to its longevity.
  7. Have a look here George - he's selling them now
  8. Commuted home just now, tried to vary the rpms when shifting. Couldn't get it to grind at all - but certainly in the past it's only been at perhaps 4500+ (mostly closer to 6000), and only upshifting. Because it's a bit sporadic, hard to tell if double clutching helps or I've just been lucky. Annoyingly the service receipt doesn't give the oil spec, but they're a very well established specialist so I assume it's the/a correct spec. Almost certainly without Molyslip, though. Just passed 100,000mi.
  9. Just jam it into gear? Is that not going to produce an even worse effect, or am I missing a joke? It didn't. Oil change was overdue (due after 12 years, apparently), so was just doing it out of routine. Hot/cold doesn't seem to make a difference. Shifts are marginally smoother, but I take it transmission oil doesn't degrade very much/fast so the improvements to be had are small anyway. I'll ask the shop, but wanted to get a heads up before ponying up for diagnostics/labour time.
  10. I recently had my transmission oil changed in my 1st gen/6 speed manual. Sporadically when shifting at high rpms from 2nd gear into 3rd, I now experience a loud grinding noise. I haven't had it when downshifting. Anyone have any experience/thoughts on what this might be? Is the oil change relevant? It was done by a local specialist who, by all accounts, seems pretty "on it". And, yes, I'm depressing the clutch fully 😅
  11. My newish-to-me Cayman only had its clutch done at 92,000mi, so as others have said it depends on how it's driven. The previous owner had the flywheel done alongside, but nothing else.
  12. Of course it is. The fact you came here, to an echo-chamber, might even prove to you that it is. That doesn't necessarily mean you bought it to show off with, but a not-insignificant portion of owners will never really care about the handling, or the engineering, or the lap times. Porsches do look good, and through no accident! They are in fact designed to look good. All cars are. Forget what others think and just drive the car for the reasons you bought it. Reasons like "engineering logic", from the sounds of it.
  13. Wait, so you run with harness and seatbelt together (presumably belt for road, harness for track)? When things calm down I'm still tempted to come and see your car in the flesh!
  14. Obviously not for road use. On the track, yes, the goal is a full setup except for the front portion cage.
  15. I'm looking at making some quality of life changes for tracking my daily car: small-diameter steering wheel, bucket seats, driver's side harness and half cage*. I understand MOT requirements changed in 2018 to require original safety equipment still be fitted. It sounds a lot like an airbag-less steering wheel is entirely out of the question, then, since our cars came with them. What are your experiences with this? I'm reluctant to have a harness setup if I'm still going to have a wheel airbag installed, but the only exemptions seem to be for actual "rally" cars (not track cars). * If anybody has suggestions for a sensible alternative to a half cage, let me have them. I don't want something that'll collapse in a flip, but I also like my rear shelf and engine access...
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