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Everything posted by Windymiller

  1. Welcome one and all 👍🏻, after all a Boxster is really a Cayman Cabriolet so all the same genus… 😉 If the spyder suspension is fundamentally the same as the cayman R (which I think it is, but someone like Gert at Carnewal can probably confirm that?) then as well as the stiffer and shorter springs and matched shocks you’d also need the slightly thicker rear ARB and it’s bushes. I recently fitted the cayman R ARB to my CS (~£200 from Porsche OPC) and I do think it has slightly sharpened turn in, ie reduced some of the under steer. But this may just be placebo effect? 🤷‍♂️ heres part numbers and prices (at start of the year anyway) R shocks front 987 343 042 09 - £277.44 ea R shocks rear 987 333 051-23 £388.51 ea R coil springs front 987-343-531-40-504 - £231.17pr (yellow & orange) R coil springs rear 987-333-531-96-504 - £231.70pr (yellow & orange & green) + 1 x Anti Roll Bar Rear. Porsche Cayman R (98733370107) DO PLEASE CHECK THEM ALL YOURSELF with an OPC, before ordering anything against those numbers! there are many threads on here for other comparable suspension options, have a little search for them would be my best recommendation. 👍🏻
  2. Re the HP2000s, good initial bite even from cold, but do have to ‘prod them’ a bit harder than the stock pads on the first couple of applications on normal road, but once you’re into the flow of a drive and they’re warmed up they bite just as quick as stock. nil fade on track and consistent braking time after time (but I’m not a heavy / hard braker). No pad judder in the pedal after repeated use, so I reckon no deposits being left on the discs, but i also have slotted discs which might help ‘skim’ the of surface? lots of confidence. Lots of pedal feel, great threshold braking (ie lots of braking efficiency without abs activiation), great longevity (8k miles incl. ~8 track days & still got 6-8mm of material left). No doubt some ultra racer types will prefer full on race pads, but when I do a track day I realise I am not racing - so don’t need race pads… as an all rounder from street to track I like them and think they are an improvement on the textars for on track, with little compromise on road. In fact on road they are possibly ‘overkill’. If I were only driving on road I’d stick with the textar. NB - I’ve never used ds2500 or Mintex to compare against, so can’t comment on whether the HP2000 are better or worse than those.
  3. I’ve used ate typ200 (previously known as superblue) and found on a hard day the pedal still went soft at the end of the day. past 2-3 years now I’ve used RBF600 and had no issues at all. I also have braided hoses and GT3MC and GT3 front brake ducts, standard pads &’discs rear and sebro slotted front discs with brembo hp2000 pads. I change the brake fluid annually.
  4. I’ve found brembo hp2000 sport pads to be a good road to track option. No fade and good longevity on track (but I’m not a heavy braker), good cold bite and no squeal on road. a little dustier than the stock textar - but not an issue of you’re washing the car regularly.
  5. Hi Graham, long time no post! Hope you’re well 👍🏻 you could drop the front under tray off reasonably easily, there’s about 10 screws to it. then just reach up and pop the fake grill ‘tab’ back in to the ‘tang’ (the white bit with a hole in it on the inner edge of the ‘grill’ aperture visible in your photo).
  6. If only…. the differential from S to R is roughly 50% to 75% currently - eg 25-28k S vs 42-48k R
  7. The silver R at Dovehouse does not have AC. not looking to change mine for an R, I drove it because I wanted to see how different the R suspension was to the S as I was contemplating swapping out my suspension for the R set up (@ £4K from centre gravity!). However, after driving the R (admittedly only on road) I didn’t feel enough of a difference to warrant the cost. Especially as The check-up at CG indicated my original shocks were still in good health and all I needed to refresh for wear n tear we’re the rear coffin arms and front top mounts and bump stops. I also used that as an opportunity to replace all drop links (cheap components, but always a bugger to remove) and replaced my rusty S rear ARB for the slightly thicker R ARB, which I think has made for a slightly sharper turn-in, but won’t really know until a next trackday. ive decided to keep the S for another 18 months ish as I’d like to move into a new GTS 4.0 but that’s gonna take some time to be financially possible (need a new family wagon first next year 🙄).
  8. I drove that R at Dovehouse a couple of weeks ago. It felt very tight and although everyone craves the carbon buckets in an R, which obviously add to the ‘drama’ of driving one, are better for gripping you on track, add value to the car and look awesome, I thought the sports design seats suited the car and made for a comfortable road ride. coming from a manual S what struck me the most was the rate of acceleration with the PDK, especially in sport plus mode. A totally different experience (literally faster feeling) to ‘winding up’ through the cogs in mine. @ajayp - if you’re willing to pay £30k for an S you can have mine!!!! 😉👍🏻
  9. Ah-ha, my misunderstanding. Yep fronts are easy to come by, but good to know the heritage parts ones are better quality than those from ECP 👍🏻😀 Back to the quest for sensibly priced rear pad retaining sets… 🙄😉
  10. I had to do it for mine can’t remember exactly how but it wasn’t complicated, just unclipping, rotating, and refitting the connector. Try this, must be similar. NB - note my warning above in the thread about cracking the windscreen - gently lower the arm back down onto a thick towel whilst there is no blade on the arm!!!
  11. I have rears from ECP and they don’t fit! All the reasons above - the ‘W’ clamp is too short and the securing pin is a different length. What prt no are yours? The ‘rears’ I got are actually the same as the front set, despite indicating rear fitment on the package. Have you fitted yours yet? Also the rears on heritage are £48, not £22 🤔 These ones for the 987.2: https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/99635295901-brake-pad-fitting-kit.html
  12. But it’s not the cotter pin / R-clip that’s the problem to find. It’s the actual ‘W’ shape pad-retaining spring-clamp and the main securing ‘pin’ as per the OPs photo that are difficult / impossible to find at a sensible price. 🤷‍♂️
  13. Now that is a beautiful bit of wire-locking right there. not seen anything that good since I was last up the ‘back hatch’ of a Mk8 Lynx helicopter re-attaching and securing the electrical plugs onto the port and starboard flotation aid bottles…. (and that was a looooooooong time ago… 😉)
  14. I’ve gone through this very same dilemma myself recently. after a visit to centre gravity in July for their 2hr total suspension survey and consultation I had ‘decided’ to go the R suspension route, but then I received their £4K estimate (parts + fitting + geo) and decided to stay as is with a few minor tweaks / refreshes. R rear ARB to help with turn in and slight reduction in roll (to help preserve tyre outer edges more), new rear coffin arms (one was ‘clonking’!), front and rear drop links and front top mounts and bump stops (both perished and no doubt affecting front end feel). ive sourced the parts myself from OPC and AUTODOC for ~£500 and my local Indy has quoted ~£500 for fitting and geo. The good thing about CGs total survey was they checked the shock absorbers health and all 4 came back as spot on even at 11.5 years old with 69k miles. 👍🏻 I test drove an R (just on the road) at Dovehouse a couple of weeks ago and loved it, but didn’t think it’s ride or handling (on the road) was noticeably different to my S. I accept that I wasn’t really pushing it on a test drive though, and on track might be a different experience entirely. I concluded that my standard suspension is fine for me in terms of dynamics on road and the 5/6 track days a year I do and an additional £3k expenditure on a ~£25k car wasn’t ‘value for money’ just to reduce the ‘SUV’ style wheel arch gap. (I may think differently again next week though… 🤔🤷‍♂️🤣) so none of that will have helped you. 🤨 But there are several folks on here who have gone the B6/B8 route with R springs. Although currently the B6/8 shocks aren’t that much cheaper than the OE R shocks… 😱
  15. Ah-ha, yes that’s the word (I knew it wasnt a circlip, but couldn’t think of the word - thanks 👍🏻). These pesky blighters: https://www.boatfittings.co.uk/mobile/p/r_clips_beta_pins_in_316_stainless_steel_a4_marine_grade ive tried to research if the fitting kit for the rears is common to another car as the brembo calipers must be used on something else in the VASS group… 🤷‍♂️ But can’t find anything of the like. 🙄
  16. I replaced my rear pads on Saturday, second set I’ve fitted myself now (and did the front discs & pads last year also - posted last July about the PITA getting the disc retaining screws out proved to be back then… 🙄🤬🥵) - a question, I can’t find the rear pad retaining kits (ie the ‘W’ shape spring, the retaining-pin and the retaining-pin ‘circlip’) anywhere cheaply. D911 wants ~£40+VAT+P&P for it, whereas the front set is readily available on ECP & CP4L for <£20. are you guys getting rear retaining kits cheap from anywhere? I think I’m right in recalling the rear W-spring clamp is longer and narrower than the front, and the rear retaining-pin is shorter than the front one - so not interchangeable unfortunately.
  17. When I was looking for mine in 2017 I drove both S and non-S, although only 1 example of a non-S. I remember i liked the 2.9 enourmously because it had a ‘liveliness’ to it that I don’t think the S has. I attribute that to its slightly lighter weight with the marginally smaller engine perhaps and it’s 18” wheels that seemed to provide a quicker eagerness to its turning. I also felt you could wring it’s revs out in each gear to hear that flat-6 howl without feeling like you were going mental on the roads. Whereas in the S, anything above 5k RPM in any gear above 2nd is crazy speeds for the road. i agree, for a quick agile B-road fun car the 2.9 is sublime and as much car as one could ever need. However, I went for the S for 2 main reasons: 1) I wanted the additional grunt on track 2) I’d always think to myself ‘I wish I’d gone for the S’. (But in the same way I now think, ‘I wish I’d got an R’… 🙄😄). if you work the gears well on the 2.9 to keep it in the sweet spot of revs I think it would be as quick across roads as the S, albeit perhaps lacking a little bit for a quick overtake from lower speeds & revs if stuck behind traffic. on a track though, different matter - although a PDK 2.9 could be as quick overall around a track as a manual S possibly… 🤔 have you driven an S to see for your self to see / feel the difference?
  18. Just checked invoice - I paid £320 (incl VAT). But if you say you’re a member of PCGB and give them any 6digit ‘membership’ number you’ll get 10% off, so should bring it down to £290 for an OE part.
  19. I know a guy who is selling his Atom due to impending redundancy: https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/12067563
  20. I think i paid about £350 for an OE water pump from Porsche last year (will check invoice when home tomorrow). i did initially buy a cheaper ‘quality’ one online, but when I took it to my Indy he said he wouldn’t fit it as it was cr@p… so that one got sent back and he supplied an OE pump. mine had started to weep / drip at around 60k miles, best to get it done. The labour itself isn’t long and you can ‘help’ by pre-removing the top and bulkhead engine cover soundproofing etc and remove a few of the cover bolts and refit yourself after. Probably saves 30-60 mins labour 🤷‍♂️ if you can get the pierburg one I’d guess that’s OE quality as a number of other OE parts are pierburg (e.g. sports exhaust actuators, vacuum actuators, vacuum pump).
  21. Does come with a free Porsche umbrella though - or perhaps it’s a £35k umbrella that comes with a free Porsche… 🤔 (might make more sense then 🤷‍♂️) 😄
  22. I disagree. Anytime ive put an overnight bag in the boot space and then driven somewhere the bottom of the bag is quite warm when I’ve taken it out at the destination (ie don’t ever leave chocolate in there!). despite the heat shields underneath the car, the exhaust boxes are right under the boot and these heat it up too.
  23. Thanks @Lennym1984 - PM just sent👍🏻
  24. The S also has a thicker rear ARB I think, and the brake discs are thicker too. so, slightly less roll in corners and slightly ‘meatier’ brakes. But then the non-S would be slightly lighter so a ‘6 and two 3s’. but whether any of that would really be noticeable on normal roads…. 🤷‍♂️ i tired non-S and S, PDK (buttons) and manual. I’m glad I went S and manual. that said, if/when I change I’d probably go PDK (paddles) for convenience on real roads and quicker on track. But that’s more an age thing as my right hip becomes increasingly less mobile which makes heel & toe more challenging. 🙄 good luck with your search. 👍🏻
  25. Any R owners in Bucks / Oxon / Beds / Herts that would take me out for a passenger ride (or even let me drive there’s sensibly) please? I was at Centre Gravity on Monday for their excellent suspension inspection survey and geo check with Pete (see photo). After 2 hrs of (hugely comprehensive) checks and discussion his recommendation was to upgrade my S suspension with an R shocks and springs retrofit + Eibach / H&R front and rear ARBs (+ new coffin arms, drop links, top mounts, bump stops…) The estimate has come in at £4K! But before I consider parting with that much cash on a refreshed suspension I would like to actually experience the R suspension on real roads. I’ve only ever passengered once in an R at Oulton park and turned the same colour as it’s peridot green paintwork (thanks @Masher 🤢😉👍🏻). So, anyone nearish me (I’m near Aylesbury) that would take me out in theirs please? I’ll travel to you 👍🏻 Alternatively Im also going to be at Carnatter near Daventry around midday this Saturday 24th with a bunch from TIPEC if anyone could get there around then? https://carnatter.com/our-place Thanks very much in advance. Windy (Jason)
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