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Aaron

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Aaron last won the day on November 29

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About Aaron

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  • My Ride
    2019 Civic Type R / Cayman R
  • Location
    South Wales

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  1. I flashed my Softronic map with a USB cable and my Surface. I can easily flash the original map and I'm back to square one... It's easily reversible and physically invisible (logically is a different story). I already had Sport Chrono but didn't get the map for throttle response, anyway. Just demonstrating that reversion is easily accomplished provided you choose a map that does so.
  2. The ECU's normal mode has dampened throttle response. For simplicity's sake, imagine the throttle can move 100mm and every mm should be considered as 1% of TPS input without said dampening. 1mm of movement (commanded throttle) is 1% TPS (actual throttle) 50mm is 50% TPS and so on... When you are in normal mode, the commanded throttle is not equal to the actual throttle. For example: 40mm of movement results in 30% TPS The product discussed fools the normal mode by commanding more throttle at the same amount of movement, but the ECU is still using the same logic: 40mm of movement is presented as 60mm of movement which results in 40% TPS. A remap removes the dampening of the throttle by the ECU and can, if mapped, command more throttle than movement by the pedal (same as Sprint Booster). 40mm of movement results in 40% TPS (with dampening removal) 40mm of movement is presented as 60mm of movement which results in 60% TPS (with extra presentation over commanded) The initial response is sharpened but at the loss of finer throttle control. This is what a lot of people will glaze over when talking about this. Remapping the ECU is the only true way to improve throttle response without sacrificing control. This same illusion that can be achieved using a larger throttle body - a larger bore means more air at less throttle, thus gives the impression that throttle response improves. But it, again, sacrifices control. I want to point out that I'm not knocking the product by any means - if you're happy with this as a middle ground and lower cost, then it's perfect for that.
  3. I drove a 718 S before my R and got the R. A turbocharged Porsche just isn't the same, even if it's faster. These cars aren't about speed - it's about engagement, the melding of man and machine. The GTS may be a better contender but you can never hide that an engine is using forced induction rather than being naturally aspirated.
  4. I'm not on VW commission either! 😅 The owner that we bought the Golf off had simply bought a newer one... As a previous muppet with two 2 seater cars, I know exactly what you mean. my missus is much happier. Me? Sort of. Gonna miss that S2000 for sure.
  5. CRZ is quite an interesting car. Does it have a go kart-like feel? The missus was recently looking for a new car and we settled on a Golf GTi. The A3 equivalent was worse on fuel, slower, had more slushie suspension and the interior wasn't all that much better. It would depend how much more you prefer the exterior of the car, I suppose.
  6. Update on my daily endeavours: I now have a Civic Type R in championship white. Needed something with more doors and practicality yet still fun to drive - this fitted the job description perfectly. Yes, it's also ludicrously outrageous and that's why I like it.
  7. I've never bought a car based on mileage, personally. Always on condition. Keep clocking the miles on!
  8. Just stating my opinion... It's your car after all, and you can do whatever you want with it. Sounds like a spec that needs to be driven and enjoyed, not tinkered with further. It isn't quite the right weather at the moment but I've made the mistake with the desire to mod over the desire to drive, and the desire to drive always worked out better in the end. You've reached the top of the hill, don't start going back down the other side! 👍
  9. I know what poly mounts are whether they're marketed as semi solid or not, they're going to be harsh for road driving. If it's not a track car, then I simply wouldn't do it. I doubt there are many owners out there buying these unless the cars are used for track. I think there's a track car build thread on here somewhere? Maybe worth a prowl. I would invest the money in a suspension geometry alignment, some track day tyres or an IPD plenum and map if you want a bit more go (did this on my own CR - gets rid of the mid range flatness). Engine mounts should be so far down the list, IMO.
  10. As extanker says, I would be steering clear of any kind of solid mounts for an everyday or weekend car. Sole track car, then go for it. I personally value my spinal comfort over the benefits of solid mounts; even on track.
  11. Get the socket that fits the filter cap and it's much easier to remove with an extension or two to give your ratchet room.
  12. I wouldn't dare use chips away or something similar. No one should paint a car outside of a paint booth, and no one should accept the standard of finish it produces.
  13. Vivid Car Care in Newport did my CR for quite a bit less. Give him a call and get a quote. You're looking at about £150 just for the paint correction, however. I'm pretty sure his 2 year coating was £200 (but this was 2 years ago).
  14. Applying the coating isn't the hard part; having the paint corrected beforehand is what the professional is really for.
  15. I have Fireball Dok Do on my CR and it's fantastic. I would recommend self applying a coating on newly refurbed/painted wheels and the windscreen, but not on the paint of the whole car. It really needs a pro to be done right. As said above, the swirls get locked in unless they're buffed out with a rotary polisher - which itself can also be deadly in untrained hands.
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