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Aaron last won the day on November 30 2018

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44 Geek

About Aaron

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  • My Ride
    S2000 / Cayman R
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    South Wales

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  1. Well, something happened because it's started working again. There was a little flicker and it sprung back to life. I think it's a bad solder joint. I've decided to wait for it to totally fail or flicker beyond my patience before I do something about it. Problem solved (until it reappears).
  2. I have a CR and can't for the life of me find a set with the right paint colour. I'd also pay between £150-£300 for the clocks then additional for programming. As long as I don't cock up the disassembly/reassembly, it's going to cost me a couple quid for LEDs. It's not a lack of skill on my part; it's more the not being arsed... Ha. Getting them apart wasn't too troublesome, but I have done easier ones.
  3. I would spend the extra money on more tuition and track time, personally. It would do you better than slotted rotors which only benefit when you can push your brakes right to the limit (which an amateur driver probably shouldn't be doing). One important aspect isn't just how fast you can go around the circuit, but how well you can look after the components of the car whilst doing so. Just my take on the matter.
  4. Due to the nature of this, I've put the feelers around locally but have been unsuccessful in finding anyone that will do this. Looks like I'm going to have to DIY it - like everything else. Digi-Key (digikey.com) look like a reputable supplier. I'm currently revamping my workshop so working on electronics is a big no at the moment. I will document the process and the replacement LEDs that I fit once I get the job done; probably going to do it before the summer. It's going to be too difficult to get an LED that is similar lumens and colour as the stock LEDs. The plan will be to replace them all.
  5. The "stock" Sebro discs are the same parts that you'll get from Porsche. Product code is 104330652 on CP4L. They're pretty solid discs - I've never had an issue with them.
  6. Hi all I've got a dead LED in my dial cluster - the one that illuminates the half and full section of the fuel gauge. I've taken the cluster out, separated it and all of the LEDs are soldered directly to the board. Has anyone changed these before, or knows which LED they are? I've put it back in and admitted defeat, for now... Cheers
  7. The wheel/flywheel number shouldn't be a fixed multipler. The losses between flywheel and wheels will increase with RPM. You can't just say peak power is always 15% or 18% over wheel HP. A good dyno can be configured to calculate flywheel/wheel losses rather accurately at each RPM interval.
  8. Nope. Plenty of gains to be had without touching the exhaust.
  9. Definitely. The map really made the differences for me too. I have a Softronic map, however, the advice doesn't change. I got pretty much 10 WHP across the board and the mid range had big gains - totally eliminated that awful flat spot between 3.5-4.5k. I think that exhaust manifolds would take it to around 370, possibly even more. I went away with 360 at the fly (load cell-based dyno). I debated manifolds a while back but never pushed the button on the order.
  10. The install is pretty straight forward. I would highly recommend a bit of grease on the seals to make it easier to work them in place; doing it dry was going nowhere. Bit of grease and they were on in a few minutes Another pointer would be having some vacuum hose and a zip tie to mount the remaining solenoid. You can leave the solenoid disconnected (won't cause a CEL) but you'll get fault codes when your car is scanned.
  11. ECP and CP4L are the same company. The difference is that CP4L is online only.
  12. Condensation in a light is not normal. It's not something I would accept, personally. Get the dealer to sort it. It doesn't matter if it's covered by their warranty policy or not.
  13. They don't read low - they read accurately! Good luck with your future project.
  14. I've never considered a clutch as preventative maintenance. Clutches can last upwards of 100k. The worst that's going to happen is it will slip under low RPM and heavy load. Eventually though, it will slip constantly. I tend to change it at the former stage.
  15. I definitely wouldn't replace the clutch when there's an obvious hydraulic issue. Sort the hydraulic issue, then look at whether the clutch needs replacing. You don't want to replace a clutch when you have a hydraulic issue as you could end up needlessly shortening the life of the new clutch you just had fitted. One thing at a time!
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