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987.2 rear discs and pads change questions


Buggyjam

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Alreeet!

 

I’m mulling over doing the rear brakes on my gen 2 Cayman myself when the weather improves. Seems relatively simple. Couple of questions 

 

1/ on cayman gen 2 do you need those anti vibration pads that go between the calliper and pad? I’ve seen the complete kits of pads and discs on design911 and the front set includes anti vib pads but not the rears. If not do you fit them dry? I read that copper grease etc shouldn’t be used as they’re designed to be dry fit. In short what’s the correct way to avoid squeaking?

 

2/ Will I def need to slack off the handbrake to get the rotor on and off? I see a small how to on pelican parts but it looks a fiddle.

 

3/ I read you also need to replace the Caliper bolts, what else do you need to swap. Caliper pins?

 

4/ what torx will I need for the Caliper bolts and what torque setting? Will you need an impact driver to get the rotor screw off? I read it can strip using a hand screwdriver.

 

Cheers!

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Assuming they are the same as my gen 1 that I changed 2 weeks ago. I used copper grease between the bad and anti vibration pads (reused the original ones) 400 miles in and no squeaking

 

Depending on the lip on the inside of the disc/ handbrake drum is the difference whether it needs slacking off but I can't say I've ever had to on any car using the same setup. For the sake of £20 I'd change the handbrake shoes whilst they're accessible and re set them. 

 

Again I reused the caliper bolts but used new pins and r clips and potentially the clips/plate that go on top of the pads depending on condition. 

 

My caliper bolts if I remember correctly were t50. And yeah I'd use an impact driver every time to take the disc screws out but make sure you use a big enough cross head to that it's a really good fit or they will strip fast. Two big thumps with the right size should see them off and then replace with new to make life easier next time.

 

Hope that helps

Edited by Munch197
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6 minutes ago, Munch197 said:

Assuming they are the same as my gen 1 that I changed 2 weeks ago. I used copper grease between the bad and anti vibration pads (reused the original ones) 400 miles in and no squeaking

 

Depending on the lip on the inside of the disc/ handbrake drum is the difference whether it needs slacking off but I can't say I've ever had to on any car using the same setup. For the sake of £20 I'd change the handbrake shoes whilst they're accessible and re set them. 

 

Again I reused the caliper bolts but used new pins and r clips and potentially the clips/plate that go on top of the pads depending on condition. 

 

My caliper bolts if I remember correctly were t50. And yeah I'd use an impact driver every time to take the disc screws out but make sure you use a big enough cross head to that it's a really good fit or they will strip fast. Two big thumps with the right size should see them off and then replace with new to make life easier next time.

 

Hope that helps

That’s smashing, thanks for that!

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Should your handbrake shoes need slacking off it's a very simple job. Just line the bolt hole up for the wheel with the teeth on the adjuster and use a flat head screwdriver to flick it up (again if I remember correctly) this slacks them off...

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7 hours ago, Munch197 said:

Should your handbrake shoes need slacking off it's a very simple job. Just line the bolt hole up for the wheel with the teeth on the adjuster and use a flat head screwdriver to flick it up (again if I remember correctly) this slacks them off...

 

 

Cheers. The how to guide on pelican parts also mentioned first slacking off the two handbrake cable nuts accessed under the rear centre console in the cabin. Is that not required?

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I wouldn't go to that extent to get the rotors off that's for sure. I highly doubt someone's gone to the effort of adjusting the handbrake that way. Like I said mine were all done on the adjusters at the wheels just make sure they both have the same amount of bite and everyone's a winner.

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