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Ah I don't count "bolt on" fittings in my assessment of rustiness. If I did then I would agree with your assessment - a lot of the brackets and braces do indeed look a bit manky. I tend to either douse stuff in Comma Waxseal or - if I can get to it to rub it down - Epoxy Mastic (I love that stuff and it dries rock hard)

Mine arrived yesterday, already making in roads and thinking about what converting my 'spare' BRZ into a track toy will mean.

When I removed the front bumper there was a LOT of surface rust around generally. Also, taking the covers off underneath has revealed some bits which are browner than I'd like. Noticable were the long bolt-on braces that attach to the front subframe and go along the length of the car. Those were really quite rusty; bad enough to need rubbing down and a good coating of Dynax S50. 

Out of interest, where are you finding rust? I've had all the covers off at one stage or another and have never found anything worse than a lightly rusted spot weld. Mine is no garage queen so I assume it would be at least as bad as any other

dealer diagnosed mine as new rear window required, coming up with a fault rear window breakage sensor, being done next week new rear screen-hopefully this is the end to my alarm issues    just posting for any future cases that may help others    cheers.

Guys I have a 987.2 Cayman S that I bought early last year, I have used it a bit on track and it’s quite impressive in standard form but I am looking to slowly upgrade the suspension bit by bit, I am planning Cayman R springs and dampers at some point as I want it to be a good fast road and track set up and for me the Cayman R set up should achieve just that. The point of my post is that my coffin arms are first to do as they are due replacement anyway. I am looking at the Eibach or PowerFlex adjustable ones for the front, I am not sure which ones to go for does anyone have any experience with either of these? Would I need the full kit for the Eibach ones including the fork arms also or just the coffin arms and the spacer kit to allow the standard fork arms to be used? Any need to get adjustable ones for the rear or just go for PowerFlex standard ones?   I have read elsewhere that to avoid excessive tyre wear I will need to run about -2deg camber on the front, I am not sure the Powerflex ones will allow as much as this? Does anyone have suggested geo settings to give a good road/track set up?   Any other suggestions also welcome but I am on a budget to a point!

Wot Aaron Sed. And 987's of all varieties certainly do rust, alarmingly so. Whenever I've had the covers off my 987.1 Cayman I have been disappointed by how much rust there is there.    And before you start asking about brands, I'd STRONGLY recommend Bilt Hamber stuff.    https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments

Sound like I nightmare.    I bought one of those small jumper packs about 150mm x 80mm x 15 mm its meant to be able to jump start a car but I bought and keep in one of the compartment either side of the engine just in case I need to power to open frunk. Never used yet.

Hi Everyone, I hope you are all keeping safe and well.  I thought you'd like to know about the book that Colin has written, thus the post, which I hope is ok to share with you below.   Many of you have been asking Colin to share his knowledge and experience on paper. Well here it is! For the first time in over four decades, inspired by the questions our clients ask time and again, Colin is publishing the engineering view on constructing your successful track day. The first in a series: Your Track Day Guide - Where to Begin & What to Buy - looks at all those questions you ask when first thinking about heading to track:   What car would you buy for track days? Would you upgrade the brakes? Which circuit would you choose for your first track day? What is the likelihood I will damage my car? Do I need insurance? Written to help you make informed decisions, optimise spend, purchase the right equipment, ensure you keep safe and have fun. 'Your Track Day Guide' will help you enjoy every circuit mile you drive. Containing knowledge for both seasoned enthusiasts and novices, this guide is informative, helpful as well as useful. To buy your personal copy & support Mission Motorsport, use this direct link Learn about:   Setting tyre pressures for track day driving from Matt at TrackToys Racing 5 level track day modification guide for safety Upgrading brakes for track driving What essentials to take to get the most from your track day What car will suit your life & driving preferences Choose the right track day car for you Open top car or fixed roof – what do you need to consider? Heavy car or light car – what are the implications? And much more. The paperback is available to buy on Amazon now, with an eBook following in the near future. All proceeds after the deduction of fixed Amazon costs for the purchase of Your Track Day Guide will be donated to Mission Motorsport. The £18.50 purchase price has been determined to generate a donation of £5.95 per copy. Mission Motorsport work tirelessly to support veterans through their philosophy of 'Race, Retrain, Recover'. Two positive outcomes – you are learning to participate in safe track days, whilst contributing to a worthy cause. A win for all. This is what Dickie Meaden, co-founder of Evo Magazine, journalist & racer had to say about the book: “There's very little to beat the thrill of driving on a race track. The freedom to drive fast. The challenge of learning the smoothest lines. The satisfaction that comes from getting the best from yourself and your car. Few things are more absorbing or addictive. However, if you're new to it, track driving can also be daunting and intimidating. Scary, even. At least if you attempt to drive too fast too soon, or take to the track in a poorly prepared car. There is much to learn. Fortunately Colin Hoad is here to help. Or rather his book is. With four decades of wisdom distilled into its pages, this comprehensive Track Day Guide contains everything the enthusiastic newcomer needs to get the absolute maximum from their track day adventures. The only thing it won't prepare you for are the number of friends you'll make, the laughs you'll have and the unforgettable memories you'll bank along the way. So, enjoy the book, and enjoy your track days. Something tells me you're going to have a blast.” We trust you enjoy the read. KR Jo To buy your personal copy & support Mission Motorsport, use this direct link

Sorry if this is a previously-answered question, had a look with the search feature but whilst could find threads about resetting the stop positions or replacing the regulator, couldn't find the answer to this.   My driver's side window is ignoring the top & bottom stop positions, if I let it the motor runs until the window is fully hard up or hard down, when it makes a godawful clattering noise as the motor is still running but the window can't move because it's fully up or down, so the teeth on the motor are jumping across the teeth on the regulator (and I've had it apart, the motor tooth plastic is obviously softer than the regulator, so the motor teeth are wearing-off, yeuch)   Full history - 2010 Cayman 987.2 - last year, had to replace the regulator : window wouldn't raise or lower, clattering noise so had a look in the door and found the cable had frayed and snapped - so fitted new regulator which was easy enough following youtube videos, getting the door card off was the worst bit - all worked fine, window went up and down; obviously window memory had cleared so I used the reset feature of winding window fully up and fully down to its limits so it 'remembered' where the up & down stop positions are : great ! - all worked fine for 8 or 10 months : window dropped on opening door handle and raised on closing door just as it should, window went up and down using one-touch just as it should, it stopped at the bottom and at the top - but a few weeks ago, went out in car and then when getting back in and driving home was aware of 'window is open' wind noise so pushed button to one-touch raise it and sure enough wind noise stopped as window closed but then got the godawful clattering noise until I pushed button again to cancel the one-touch closing - now, when I open the door the window drops fully 1 1/2" but doesn't lift back up when I close the door - if I use the one-touch on the window in either up or down, the window moves but the motor doesn't stop running when the window hits its physical limits of open or closed, motor keeps running. godawful noise as teeth jump on motor vs regulator, until I hit switch again to cancel the one-touch - so I can open and close the window by manually nudging it up & down on the switch, not using one-touch; so car is useable but obviously this is a pain as I've forgotten to close the window that 1 1/2" a couple of times after parking, or have forgotten about it and allowed window to go down fully using one-touch. - and obviously every time the teeth jump, it's wearing them out - I've had it all apart again, taken glass and regulator fully out and refitted it all back again, couldn't see anything awry, but it's no different still does it - I can see that the teeth on the motor are being worn-off, as the plastic must be softer than the teeth on the regulator - and I even disconnected battery for half an hour to see if a reset would make any difference : it 'forgot' the positions on the passenger window and I had to reset them, but driver's door still doing this   Any ideas ?   Where are the sensors for the window stop positions, which should cut the motor when it hits the full-up and full-down positions : are they on the motor assembly itself ?   thanks