Which snow foam?

[Munch197]

Having gone through a few snow foams. Just looking for other ideas if anyone has used some and been Uber impressed with it? Photo is of today's trial of a cheaper autobrite direct magifoam which performed significantly better than some of the chemical guys Mr pink I was using last week.

[PhilCS]

I use the Bilt Hamber Active Snow Foam after trying a few others and not being that impressed.  I think it was a thread on here recommending it.  

 

Its so good I don’t have to wash the car after using just the snow foam.  

[UKtom]

AutoFinesse avalanche is the best i've used, although i'm biased. I couldn't recommend it enough, genuinely my favourite snow foam.

 

https://shop.autofinesse.co.uk/avalanche-1litre

 

Tom

[PMGPete]

Autofinesse avalanche is ok IMO but the best snow foam Anachem Ultrafoam, that's what I use day in day out.

 

Gtechniq citrus foam is very good if you have a ceramic coating

[Idlewild]

Valetpro, because it's cheap and they're all basically the same.

[PMGPete]

@idlewild they very much aren't.  That's coming from someone that develops products for manufacturers across world for a living

[NWDetailing]

My go to after trying lots is either Valet Pro PH Neutral or Valet Pro Advanced neutral snow foam. Its well priced and works really well. Doesn't affect the Wax/Coating thats applied while breaking down the road film and grime making you barely have to touch it with the Mitt. 

[Windymiller]

Slightly tangential question on this topic - when using snow foam should you:

1) spray it on and just leave it for a few minutes to ‘do its thing’ (life off the dirt), then rinse it off completely, and then (2 buckets) wash the car?

 

Or should you:

2) spray it on, leave it for a few minutes, then wash it off using a (micro fibre / lambs wool) cloth/mitt, and then (2 buckets) wash the car?

 

I also pre-rinse the car before even snow-foaming just to shift any loose / major muck. 

 

currently I opt for option 1 as I think if the foam ‘lifts’ the dirt and ‘traps’ it, I don’t then want to rub it all over the car with a cloth/mitt. 

 

As an aside I just use the Halfords ‘demon works’ foam tub with some integral aireator to foam it up that I plug my normal garden hose into. I don’t have a karcher and my domestic supply is a great pressure. 

 

Jason

[NWDetailing]

1 hour ago, Windymiller said:

Slightly tangential question on this topic - when using snow foam should you:

1) spray it on and just leave it for a few minutes to ‘do its thing’ (life off the dirt), then rinse it off completely, and then (2 buckets) wash the car?

 

Or should you:

2) spray it on, leave it for a few minutes, then wash it off using a (micro fibre / lambs wool) cloth/mitt, and then (2 buckets) wash the car?

 

I also pre-rinse the car before even snow-foaming just to shift any loose / major muck. 

 

currently I opt for option 1 as I think if the foam ‘lifts’ the dirt and ‘traps’ it, I don’t then want to rub it all over the car with a cloth/mitt. 

 

As an aside I just use the Halfords ‘demon works’ foam tub with some integral aireator to foam it up that I plug my normal garden hose into. I don’t have a karcher and my domestic supply is a great pressure. 

 

Jason

 

Personally I will give the car a thorough jet wash and remove as much dust dirt and mud etc as I can. Will then apply prewash to the really dirty areas if needed and let that sit before rinsing it. Then foam the car and go round with a detailing brush for the badges and grills etc. Then Generally will use the mitt while the snow foam is almost run off as really the only thing you should be removing at this point is road film and should not cause any scratching etc. Anything heavy that is likely to scratch will have been removed in the jet wash stage. 

 

Everyone will have a different way and preference on this. This Method works for me and I've seen no issues with wash marks from doing it this way. If you Want to rinse the snow foam off before using the mitt there is also nothing wrong with this at all you may remove a little more dirt but you also use a little more water. 

 

 

[NWDetailing]

1 hour ago, Windymiller said:

Slightly tangential question on this topic - when using snow foam should you:

1) spray it on and just leave it for a few minutes to ‘do its thing’ (life off the dirt), then rinse it off completely, and then (2 buckets) wash the car?

 

Or should you:

2) spray it on, leave it for a few minutes, then wash it off using a (micro fibre / lambs wool) cloth/mitt, and then (2 buckets) wash the car?

 

I also pre-rinse the car before even snow-foaming just to shift any loose / major muck. 

 

currently I opt for option 1 as I think if the foam ‘lifts’ the dirt and ‘traps’ it, I don’t then want to rub it all over the car with a cloth/mitt. 

 

As an aside I just use the Halfords ‘demon works’ foam tub with some integral aireator to foam it up that I plug my normal garden hose into. I don’t have a karcher and my domestic supply is a great pressure. 

 

Jason

 

For your case with no Jetwash, I would say rinse it down as best as you can, Then Snowfoam, let it sit. Then rinse it. Then use your Two buckets.and rinse again.

 

Would recommend a good prewash that you have have in a pump sprayer or spray bottle for use around the bottoms of the doors and the back. You can also get foam guns that you can use on a normal hose so you can use a good snow foam that way.

 

My way works for me but I do have a jetwash and Foam Cannon and have the pressure to remove more dirt in the first rinse. 

[PMGPete]

@NWDetailing are you a full time professional? Just wondering as your method would be quite at odds with mine (owner of a Gtechniq Accredited studio)

 

The only reason I ask is road film would certainly be an issue on the latest of cars with their very soft paint.

 

Also I wouldn't recommend a rinse without first soaking in prewash as you are only diluting the product at surface contact, therefore minimising its effect.

 

Over many years of trial and error my process is as follows on a weekly maintenance wash.

 

Prewash to lowers, inner wheel wells etc. Entire rear depending on contamination.

 

Allow to soak for 2-3mins then thorough rinse to all presoaked areas.

 

Application of snowfoam, not too thick and not too thin, you want it to run off gradually and encapsulate dirt.  

 

Wash wheels.

 

Thorough rinse.

 

Second thin application of foam.  This is simply to add as much lubricity as possible to the surface. Wash marring is more often causes by the mechanical action of the mitt and drying process due to surface tension.  Anything that aids this is welcomed.  Side tip, people think a foamy shampoo is what you want, you actually want a shampoo that feels extremely slick under your mitt.

 

2 bucket wash technique on paintwork.

 

Thorough rinse.

 

To dry either pat the car dry with a drying towel 

 

Or

 

Rinse with deionised water and let it dry naturally

 

Or

 

Blow-dry with an air dryer.

 

Hope this helps

 

[NWDetailing]

5 minutes ago, PMGPete said:

@NWDetailing are you a full time professional? Just wondering as your method would be quite at odds with mine (owner of a Gtechniq Accredited studio)

 

The only reason I ask is road film would certainly be an issue on the latest of cars with their very soft paint.

 

Also I wouldn't recommend a rinse without first soaking in prewash as you are only diluting the product at surface contact, therefore minimising its effect.

 

Over many years of trial and error my process is as follows on a weekly maintenance wash.

 

Prewash to lowers, inner wheel wells etc. Entire rear depending on contamination.

 

Allow to soak for 2-3mins then thorough rinse to all presoaked areas.

 

Application of snowfoam, not too thick and not too thin, you want it to run off gradually and encapsulate dirt.  

 

Wash wheels.

 

Thorough rinse.

 

Second thin application of foam.  This is simply to add as much lubricity as possible to the surface. Wash marring is more often causes by the mechanical action of the mitt and drying process due to surface tension.  Anything that aids this is welcomed.  Side tip, people think a foamy shampoo is what you want, you actually want a shampoo that feels extremely slick under your mitt.

 

2 bucket wash technique on paintwork.

 

Thorough rinse.

 

To dry either pat the car dry with a drying towel 

 

Or

 

Rinse with deionised water and let it dry naturally

 

Or

 

Blow-dry with an air dryer.

 

Hope this helps

 

Yes I am,

 

Like I say everyone has there own way of doing things, there is no right or wrong way of doing things, If it works for you then its the right option. The way you have suggested works great. 

 

But equally from my own trial and error removing heavy road grime first by a thorough rinse will remove alot of loose dirt and debris. Yes the prewash will be slightly more diluted with water on the panel but equally there will be a lot less dirt that it needs to work on and and lift.

 

I agree with the snow foam adding lubrication. I also agree that the best shampoo feels slick under the wash mitt and not just foamy.

 

Then I agree with Blow drying is the best option where possible. If not then Pat Drying!

 

Nice to meet you mate!

[Windymiller]

So now I have a pressure washer, and I bought a snowfoam lance and some bilt hammer foam. 

 

Should i I use the foam neat, or dilute it by some ratio in the lance bottle?

 

and what does the twisty knob on the top of the foam-lance do? Add more / less of what’s in the foam-bottle into the jetwash flow through the lance?

 

yep, spot the foaming noob... ?? ?

[NWDetailing]

2 minutes ago, Windymiller said:

So now I have a pressure washer, and I bought a snowfoam lance and some bilt hammer foam. 

 

Should i I use the foam neat, or dilute it by some ratio in the lance bottle?

 

and what does the twisty knob on the top of the foam-lance do? Add more / less of what’s in the foam-bottle into the jetwash flow through the lance?

 

yep, spot the foaming noob... ?? ?

 

Yeah so the knob on the top is to adjust the concentrate. I generally run mine wide open. 

 

On the snow foam you have it should have the dilution ratios on the label, you are best to follow this for best results. If there is none then a general rule of thumb is about 1inch ish of concentrate to the rest water in a litre bottle of snow foam. 

 

This is what i work by and it hasent let me down yet.

 

Hey maybe a noob but everyone starts somewhere! Foaming is alot of fun!

 

[Windymiller]

2 minutes ago, NWDetailing said:

 

Yeah so the knob on the top is to adjust the concentrate. I generally run mine wide open. 

 

On the snow foam you have it should have the dilution ratios on the label, you are best to follow this for best results. If there is none then a general rule of thumb is about 1inch ish of concentrate to the rest water in a litre bottle of snow foam. 

 

This is what i work by and it hasent let me down yet.

 

Hey maybe a noob but everyone starts somewhere! Foaming is alot of fun!

 

Cheers ??

 

I had a go earlier and filled the foam bottle with neat foam and had the craziest foaming session on the drive, there was loads of it ?.

 

so perhaps tomorrow I’ll read the label on the BIlt hammer tub before I wash her again ??.

 

ever used carpro reload sealant spray?

 

i used the dodo juice future armour this wknd, does a good job, but doesn’t go very far (but I only bought the small 100ml bottle to be fair). 

 

I want something that is ceramic coating friendly (car was supplied with the Williams ceramic coating). 

 

Thanks, Jason

[NWDetailing]

10 hours ago, Windymiller said:

Cheers ??

 

I had a go earlier and filled the foam bottle with neat foam and had the craziest foaming session on the drive, there was loads of it ?.

 

so perhaps tomorrow I’ll read the label on the BIlt hammer tub before I wash her again ??.

 

ever used carpro reload sealant spray?

 

i used the dodo juice future armour this wknd, does a good job, but doesn’t go very far (but I only bought the small 100ml bottle to be fair). 

 

I want something that is ceramic coating friendly (car was supplied with the Williams ceramic coating). 

 

Thanks, Jason

 

Yes the Car Pro Reload is good, You can still put a nice coat of wax on the top if you wanted to.

 

Yeah using it neat will just give to much foam you will waste product and it wont work effectively. There should be dilution ratios on the bottle.