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GlosRich

Rusty jacking points

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Check your jacking points for rust folks.

 

Had the underfloor panels off yesterday, and pressure washed everything, and the jacking points were well rusty on my 2009 car.

 

The front ones especially are in the 'line of fire' from the front wheels and get very chipped.

 

If left to rust it will spread up into the sills and floor.

 

Cheers

 

Rich

 

 

IMG_20190905_110022710.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Simon Wood said:

What do you plan to put on them to treat them.

 

I have been considering trying Bilt Hamber Deox Gel

https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/deox-gel

 

I wire wooled and brushed them first. Then used Kurust, but I have heard about Deox gel, sounds better.

 

Then I've painted them with zinc primer, will top coat with some black hammerite, but I guess you could body colour them also, but maybe not as durable.

 

Shame the wheel arch liner doesn't hang down a bit further, it would protect them.

 

 

Edited by GlosRich

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I found the same thing last winter when I was doing some fettling.

I cleaned them out and used Por15 followed by two coats of red smoothrite. 

I check them regularly and will give another top coat each wintet when it is off the road... 

Edited by Tozerman

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Just curious, looking at mine, they look fine to the eye. Is the rusty areas underneath the panel covering out of sight?

 

Ive a selection of bilthamber stuff for corrosion things. I got to do some corroded spots from stone chips on the inner shock towers. Detox gel, their zinc heavy primer etc. 

 

Top tip OP! It’s tip offs like this that make this site gold dust for sharing info and found faults.

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On my car I could spot the rusty jacking points with the underbody panels still fitted. The hardest bit to treat and paint is inside the jacking point. 

I bent an old paintbrush by 90° and used that. 

As the OP has done it is a great idea to remove all the under body panels for cleaning and checking the floor of the car. 

 

 

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On 07/09/2019 at 08:57, Buggyjam said:

Just curious, looking at mine, they look fine to the eye. Is the rusty areas underneath the panel covering out of sight?

 

Ive a selection of bilthamber stuff for corrosion things. I got to do some corroded spots from stone chips on the inner shock towers. Detox gel, their zinc heavy primer etc. 

 

Top tip OP! It’s tip offs like this that make this site gold dust for sharing info and found faults.

 

The rusty areas are the actual jacking points, so they are visible with the panels still on.

 

Another thing you should check is the brake lines on the passenger side that pass behind the jacking points and head up behind the front wheel arch liner, mine are starting to get a bit degraded, so I cleaned them off and painted them with black hammerite.

 

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Cheers for heads up, I’ll take a look!

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As a new owner and member, i have looked at mine briefly and have the same concern. How easy is it to remove all of the under trays/panels?

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard

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31 minutes ago, Rich58 said:

As a new owner and member, i have looked at mine briefly and have the same concern. How easy is it to remove all of the under trays/panels?

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard

 

Pretty easy, all held on with 10mm plastic nuts, and some Torx T25 and T30 screws. Drive on low profile ramps make it a lot easier, I've got some rhino ramps, but you could use a trolley jack with axle stands for safety.

 

This Pelican Parts guide is good with pictures:

 

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-987-Cayman/07-BODY-Under_Tray_Removal/07-BODY-Under_Tray_Removal.htm

 

 

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