Tozerman Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 It has been a year now since I picked up my 987-1 Cayman. Though it about time I posted a thread just in case somebody wants to read it The collection day... Once I picked it up I essentially tucked it up in the garage ready for a bit of winter tinkering. I put in on axle stands, removed all the underfloor panels and all the wheel arch liners and cleaned out all the crap. I have no pictures of this but I strongly recommend you do this every year, pay extra attention to the jacking points !! I then set about painting the inside of the wheel arches red (yes I know I'm a tart) I am not very good at taking pic's on my phone but you get the idea. I also fitted new rear disc and pads as the old discs were badly scored. Then came Spring 2019 and time to get the old girl taxed and back on the road. More in Chapter two... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tozerman Posted November 6, 2019 Author Share Posted November 6, 2019 Once I started using it properly it became clear it had the usual rear oil leak. My warranty would not pay for it (surprise surprise) but good news was that my supplying dealer agreed to cover the cost of a new IMS and RMS, top marks to DT Performance cars of Tamworth. I was willing to pay for new exhaust clamps and of course a new Sachs clutch. as you can see the old clamps were shot. The IMS seal was the culprit, both seals were changed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tozerman Posted November 6, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 6, 2019 Then came the highlight of my year, my yearly trip to the Nürburgring I have been every year since 2010 and would not miss it for the world. Before I went I did an oil/filter change. Also removed the front bumper to clean out the s**t between the rads. I then fitted Zunsport grills. I will not bang on about lap times etc, but suffice to say whilst it does not have a lot of power it does have a lot of grip, so you can keep the momentum up in the corners. For me main thing was the comfortable drive there. My old car was a 1999 Honda S2000 and it was brilliant but very NOISY and cramped. I am not in the first flush of youth so this was important to me. I have more updates to this thread in the pipeline, just need a bit more time. TTFN 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sevenfourate Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 Inside of the arches as one of your first jobs ! And I thought I had ‘issues’ 😎 ‘Normal’ stuff apart from that on a used Cayman I guess. Been there with clutch and rear brakes - like you - myself. Did you not renew flywheel I take it ? Ring pics look awesome.I bet that’s hugely fun. Did you crave more power, was it enough.....or do you always crave more power on ‘track’ ? Yea - please keep the updates coming. From another 2.7 owner especially; it’s always good to see what others are upto 👌 ENJOY......... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tozerman Posted November 7, 2019 Author Share Posted November 7, 2019 No didn't change the flywheel as it was deemed OK by the specialist - Quorn Sports Cars - Power wise I think the 2.7 is about right as you can use most of the power most of the time. It is not fast but it is fast enough. The 3.4 would have me paranoid I'm sorry to say. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lennym1984 Posted November 8, 2019 Share Posted November 8, 2019 22 hours ago, Tozerman said: Power wise I think the 2.7 is about right as you can use most of the power most of the time. It is not fast but it is fast enough. The 3.4 would have me paranoid I'm sorry to say. As a fellow (newish) 2.7 owner I couldn't agree more. The engine is great (I used to have an early Boxster and it feels much more flexible than that) and what is lacks in power vs a 3.4 is easily offset for me against having a little more peace of mind.when it comes to reliability. If I was buying with a Porsche warranty then perhaps my decision would have been different. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sevenfourate Posted November 8, 2019 Share Posted November 8, 2019 1 hour ago, Lennym1984 said: As a fellow (newish) 2.7 owner I couldn't agree more. The engine is great (I used to have an early Boxster and it feels much more flexible than that) and what is lacks in power vs a 3.4 is easily offset for me against having a little more peace of mind.when it comes to reliability. If I was buying with a Porsche warranty then perhaps my decision would have been different. 2.7 owner here. And If i'm 100% honest - i was torn engine-wise. I test drove two 3.4's initially. And loved the Cayman concept as whole. And the low down torque of the 3.4 (which is very noticeably increased compared to the 2.7 imo) . Although the possible reliability issues of course nagged at me after 'researching'. However small that chance..... I was split and still debating: when the 'right' 2.7 appeared for sale not 50 miles from me. Do i regret not getting a 3.4 (Solely Sunny Sunday road use for me)....not for a single moment as its 'enough' for what i use it for. Although that extra torque was / is pretty addictive........😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tozerman Posted November 9, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 9, 2019 (edited) Update time... I have always thought the gearchange quality was crap ! I didn't want the expense of new cables and maybe a short shift kit. What I did was inspect the linkage on the side of the gearbox. I found that there was a lot of play in the swivel that I am pointing to. Here it is removed.. The part that is worn is under the rubber cover in the middle of the picture. It had to go. A replacement part is easily available (although you have to buy the whole linkage assembly) it was £191 from Nottingham OPC (or about £230 from Design 911 !!) Here it is fitted. I didn't use the upper part of the kit or the new rod as there was no play on those items and it would all need setting up. The car is sorn'd for the winter so I can't road test it, but sitting in the car and changing gears the difference is massive. Much more precise and mechanical with NO PLAY or vagueness One of the best ways of spending £191 on a 11 year old Cayman. Check yours out and see what you think.. Edited November 9, 2019 by Tozerman error 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tozerman Posted November 9, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 9, 2019 Update number five. There is a lot of talk about exactly where to fit the CTEK charger lead. I used to have it under the battery cover but soon got pissed off removing and refitting the cover. the resolution was simple. Hard wire the fly lead to the battery, and then simply run it through the rubber grommet (you will need to make a tiny hole) and then poke it through the little window by the side of the master cylinder like so... No more messing about simply pop the bonnet and connect... Cheers.....Tony.. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tozerman Posted November 9, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 9, 2019 (edited) Update number 6, (I have been busy ) I wanted to get the rear ARB powder coated as it was looking scruffy. As many will know in order to remove the drop link (due to corrosion) it will probably need to be cut off and a new one fitted. Easier said than done as the main problem is the top pinch bolt that goes through the upright and clamps the shocker is nearly always seized. These can cause a major headache as no matter of bashing (not recommended) or cajoling will budge it. Some owners have even resorted to removing the whole upright assembly from the car !! The image below should hopefully explain how I did it.. 1. Pop the old drop link off and expose the ball end of the bolt. 2, Get your angle grinder out and cut off the actual ball from the end. 3. Get one of these Iwrin bolt/nut removers and hammer it on the end of the bolt 4. Using a mixture of a long breaker bar and an impact wrench turn the bolt anti-clockwise, this will break the seal that the corrosion has caused and enable the bolt to be simply tapped out. It will take you no more than 1 hour per drop link. No need to pay someone to do it. Good Luck.. Edited November 9, 2019 by Tozerman 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sevenfourate Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 You have been quite busy. Great work ! All your own handy-work too which is good to see 🙂 Nice tip on the gear linkage. I'll sure me and many other will need that at some point. And what about the rear ARB....is it back on yet. Do you have some underside pics with it fitted ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tozerman Posted November 10, 2019 Author Share Posted November 10, 2019 ARB is away being powder coated, should get it back next week. Only got it done because the paint was flaking which is a pet hate of mine. Will get some pictures up when refitted. The drive shafts are also flaking so will hand paint those 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tozerman Posted November 23, 2019 Author Share Posted November 23, 2019 Update time.. finally got the ARB and mounting brackets back from the powder coaters. Then proceeded to assemble the complete mounting assemblies Then fitted them to the car.. Nearside Offside.. You can also see the driveshafts which were hand painted and new cv bands fitted. I have modified the rear undertray to enable gearbox oil draining without having to remove it which is a bit of a palaver. Then realised it would be best to do it whilst it was off the car any way. I will leave it draining for a couple of days or so as I was unable to warm it up first. Next will be re fitting the ARB (I am reusing the old bushes as they are in really good condition with no cracking or splitting) Then re fitting the rear braces, undertray, and all the rear arch liners etc. Then I need to find the best way to refill the bloody gearbox ! The only problem with fitting all these clean parts is that they show just how dirty the rest of the engine/gearbox area is don't I can resist cleaning that area within an inch of its life. Is there a cure for OCD ? Cheers.....Tony.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sevenfourate Posted November 24, 2019 Share Posted November 24, 2019 (edited) That’s looking superb Tony. And doing all yourself too. Well done 👌 That will hold back the dreaded corrosion for quite some years..... And I agree (Especially if you have OCD tendencies) - all a plethora of shiny new parts brings - is an immediate wake-up to the next weakest looking area ! I presume gearbox needs filling with car on the level. Is it like most with a side mounted plug that you need to fill until it starts to overflow. Doing as it sits in your garage? Do you have 4 axle stands ? There must be some cheap pump operated device available - or just a long tube from the bottles of oi and squeeze it in - if you can buy yourself some height..... Good luck. Edited November 24, 2019 by sevenfourate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tozerman Posted November 24, 2019 Author Share Posted November 24, 2019 It does need to be done on the level. The car currently is on 4 axle stands. It needs to be 11mm below the filler hole, need to make a angled dips tick to measure that. I have one of those giant syringe things to use or I might take the top engine cover off and with a hose and funnel pour it in that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlosRich Posted November 25, 2019 Share Posted November 25, 2019 Great job Tony, looks good. The gearbox and exhaust area on the Cayman, does suffer, as its hung out the back there getting all the road spray and dirt. Mine is the same, unless the owners bother to pressure wash under there in winter, they soon deteriorate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tozerman Posted December 10, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 10, 2019 (edited) Update time. Refilled the gearbox with some Motul 75/90 synthetic oil from Opie. Decided the best way is through a funnel from the top, absolute piece of cake this way. I put the correct 2.25 litres in and with a home made right angled dipstick it was as close to 11mm below the fill hole as you can get. Job done and I reckon about £100 saved from having it done by a specialist The only thing is that by taking the engine cover off it shows how dirty the engine is, must resist, must resist Just realised that my hands make me look I'm a 100 years old, I am not that old honestly Cheers... Edited December 10, 2019 by Tozerman 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tozerman Posted December 10, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 10, 2019 (edited) Next to get my attention was the front brakes. They looked ok from the outside, but once I removed them the inner side was like this.. Whilst they were not too bad my OCD told me I had to change them. To match the rears I got some Brembo discs and std road pads. I also cleaned and painted the dust shields whilst the discs were off and refitted with stainless M6 flange headed bolts. Thought about binning them altogether but decided against it. There is often a lot of talk online about Textar pads being OEM ! If you buy std Brembo pads you end up getting Textar I did consider getting some uprated pads for the front but decided against it as it is not a track car as such and the Brembo road pads will do 2 laps back to back on the Nürburgring without fading. My winter jobs list is almost finished, I need to find something else to do to it !! Cheers.... Edited December 10, 2019 by Tozerman 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sevenfourate Posted December 11, 2019 Share Posted December 11, 2019 10 hours ago, Tozerman said: Next to get my attention was the front brakes. They looked ok from the outside, but once I removed them the inner side was like this.. Whilst they were not too bad my OCD told me I had to change them. To match the rears I got some Brembo discs and std road pads. I also cleaned and painted the dust shields whilst the discs were off and refitted with stainless M6 flange headed bolts. Thought about binning them altogether but decided against it. There is often a lot of talk online about Textar pads being OEM ! If you buy std Brembo pads you end up getting Textar I did consider getting some uprated pads for the front but decided against it as it is not a track car as such and the Brembo road pads will do 2 laps back to back on the Nürburgring without fading. My winter jobs list is almost finished, I need to find something else to do to it !! Cheers.... Interesting on the Brembo labelled pads having a Textar stamp in. Maybe one guy in a shed with various stamps actually makes all the companies 987 brake pads - using whatever stamps / parts he has to hand that day ? 🙂 Nice work though as always. I love your attention to detail: Stainless Flange-head bolts, re-painting the guard whilst in there etc etc. My train of thought entirely....."Do it once - do it properly". And on that front i'm surprised i'm not seeing the brake disc hub / bell painted ? It doesn't look on my crappo work monitor like it's been pre-done to me either ? They'll look a rusty / orange mess quite quickly imo - if not protected in some way. Smooth Hammerite has always been my choice of paint for this. Looks great. Hard as nails and will outlast the discs from my experience.... Have you been out and driven your car since the recent gearbox oil change ? I'd be interested in your thoughts and whether you can immediately feel the difference ?. **In a heavily modified car i used to own - it came with a pretty 'notchy' feeling and supposedly chocolate gear-box' from the factory. But there was an oil (Redline MTL) that was nearly double the price of the recommended standard stuff - but was supposed to make quite a difference to the operation / feeling of the box. First couple of oil changes i stuck with the stock gearbox oil. When i eventually bit the bullet and put in the 'uprated' stuff - the difference was unbelievable. I still rate that as one of the best / most noticeable / pleasing mod / upgrades i've ever done to a car. The slickness / feeling / operation of the gearbox was hugely improved - and if someone had of told me the difference an oil change / type of oil used could make; i wouldn't have believed them unless i'd have experienced it myself. So i know what a huge difference a gear-box oil change can make. Carry on with the great work 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tozerman Posted December 11, 2019 Author Share Posted December 11, 2019 I can confirm that Brembo discs have powder coated gun metal grey disc bells, no rust here The car is currently sorn'd so no chance to test the gearchange whist driving yet ! that will have to wait until the spring Cheers..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now