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Changing exhaust manifold on the drive?


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I have a 2009 .2 and got some decat exhaust manifolds - my friend who used to work at Porsche says I'm mad to consider doing it on the drive and that some of the bolts will definitely snap.

 

Anyone got any input?

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37 minutes ago, yuffyhaggo said:

I have a 2009 .2 and got some decat exhaust manifolds - my friend who used to work at Porsche says I'm mad to consider doing it on the drive and that some of the bolts will definitely snap.

 

Anyone got any input?

 

Why don't you get him to help? (since he has worked at Porsche) 

 

It doesn't matter where you do the work. It's about the right tools...

 

On gen2 the bolts on the engine block are not a problem, but the ones on the flanges (so between manifolds and catback) are pressed in studs. That means there's no chance to undo them....you can undo the nuts but you'll have to drill out the studs or heat them up and tap on them to get them out. 

 

 

Edited by Andrea
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6 hours ago, Andrea said:

 

Why don't you get him to help? (since he has worked at Porsche) 

 

It doesn't matter where you do the work. It's about the right tools...

 

On gen2 the bolts on the engine block are not a problem, but the ones on the flanges (so between manifolds and catback) are pressed in studs. That means there's no chance to undo them....you can undo the nuts but you'll have to drill out the studs or heat them up and tap on them to get them out. 

 

 

 

I will certainly ask but our schedules are often at odds and it's just a few bolts... (famous last words)

 

Thanks for the words, I'm thinking the ones between the manifolds and the rest of the exhaust don't matter too much as I can just cut them out and drill them off the car. It's the ones in the block that will be a pain if they snap...

 

My plan is to

1. Use penetrating oil a few times the day before and over the morning on each of the bolts.

2. Heat the block up by driving the car first (and wear long sleaved clothes plus gloves to avoid the, otherwise inevitable, burns.

3. Use a breaker bar, and gently try to undo them, retightening as it undoes to work the threads loose

 

If they snap they snap. I am actually consoled to the idea that I can just have the car recovered to a local garage if worst comes to worst.

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 Well be positive, on gen2 the bolts on the engine block don't tend to snap like on the gen1! 

 

 

P.S. With catless manifolds your car is going to sound insane! Like a mini GT3!  

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@yuffyhaggo could try using a tourque wrench to undo the bolts set to the tourque for doing them up, that way if they budge when you use that you can be confident that those ones will come undone. 

If they don't then you know to be careful, treat it to some direct heat and fluid then work it slowly rather than leaning on any and going straight to snapsville. 

Same process used when changing the glow plugs on my BMW E60 as those w@nkers like to snap! 

 

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2 hours ago, Andy said:

@yuffyhaggo could try using a tourque wrench to undo the bolts set to the tourque for doing them up, that way if they budge when you use that you can be confident that those ones will come undone. 

If they don't then you know to be careful, treat it to some direct heat and fluid then work it slowly rather than leaning on any and going straight to snapsville. 

Same process used when changing the glow plugs on my BMW E60 as those w@nkers like to snap! 

 

 

Oh that's a really good idea on the torque wrench front!

 

I'm going to start the penetrating oil process tomorrow... Thanks guys, I'll report back after!

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So as per Andrea's posts. The manifold bolts came straight off, no drama at all 👍

 

The join between the manifold and the exhaust were completely corroded. The nuts (or whatever was there before) were completely gone. Used a screwdriver to part the two pieces and the manifold just fell off the exhaust lol.

 

Had to drill the bolt holes a bit bigger to fit the bolts for the TopGear manifold but it's on now.. :))

 

If anyone's still reading this, is there a remap you can do yourself with a phone/laptop etc that will delete the engine management light? And what is a good solution for the O2 sensor plugs?

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On 29/05/2022 at 20:43, yuffyhaggo said:

So as per Andrea's posts. The manifold bolts came straight off, no drama at all 👍

 

The join between the manifold and the exhaust were completely corroded. The nuts (or whatever was there before) were completely gone. Used a screwdriver to part the two pieces and the manifold just fell off the exhaust lol.

 

Had to drill the bolt holes a bit bigger to fit the bolts for the TopGear manifold but it's on now.. :))

 

If anyone's still reading this, is there a remap you can do yourself with a phone/laptop etc that will delete the engine management light? And what is a good solution for the O2 sensor plugs?

 

Softronic is your best bet for a remote map.  Scott is renowned in the Porsche world and has a plethora of experience.

 

You buy the map from his site, he will post you a cable (with $50 or so value - keeps the taxes down).  Dump your map using the cable, send it, he will modify it and send it back.  You then flash the map on.  It's extremely easy to do.

 

The alternative is to move out the secondary oxygen sensor with a spacer.  It will cause a different reading between the primary and secondary sensors which will prevent a CEL.

 

I would highly recommend the map for manifolds as that's where the most gains come from.  Follow up with an IPD plenum and 82mm TB if you want to eliminate the mid range flat spot entirely.  The swap is pretty easy to do, as long as you don't mind leaning over and into the engine bay for extended periods!

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8 hours ago, Aaron said:

 

Softronic is your best bet for a remote map.  Scott is renowned in the Porsche world and has a plethora of experience.

 

You buy the map from his site, he will post you a cable (with $50 or so value - keeps the taxes down).  Dump your map using the cable, send it, he will modify it and send it back.  You then flash the map on.  It's extremely easy to do.

 

The alternative is to move out the secondary oxygen sensor with a spacer.  It will cause a different reading between the primary and secondary sensors which will prevent a CEL.

 

I would highly recommend the map for manifolds as that's where the most gains come from.  Follow up with an IPD plenum and 82mm TB if you want to eliminate the mid range flat spot entirely.  The swap is pretty easy to do, as long as you don't mind leaning over and into the engine bay for extended periods!

 

Thanks mate, I haven't actually refit either of the O2 sensors (still haven't started the car as I have to put the rest of it back together and it was getting late the other day...)

 

I suppose it's better to refit them so they don't get lost in my loft if nothing else??

 

I saw an exhaust install video where the spacer on the 2nd lambda didn't actually prevent an engine light hence I didn't bother...

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11 hours ago, yuffyhaggo said:

 

Thanks mate, I haven't actually refit either of the O2 sensors (still haven't started the car as I have to put the rest of it back together and it was getting late the other day...)

 

I suppose it's better to refit them so they don't get lost in my loft if nothing else??

 

I saw an exhaust install video where the spacer on the 2nd lambda didn't actually prevent an engine light hence I didn't bother...

 

You'll want to keep the primary sensors in or your closed loop running will be poor.

 

The spacers are hit and miss, but it is an option (albeit one that may not work).  I would go with the map, personally.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Don't use regular WD40 as a drilling lubricant... Use a real cutting oil (although WD40 make this too).  Your drill bits and time will thank you.

 

Great write up!  You can use OBD to check your O2 sensor voltages and see if they look normal, and if the cat trick is working.

 

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