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sevenfourates 987.1 Meteor Grey Cayman.........


sevenfourate

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The titillation continues. And what a great day for it ! Weather system overhead obviously didn't know it was a Bank Holiday 😎

 

Project for the day was to get a second coat of Silver Smoothrite onto the brake hubs. You should apply two coats as per the instructions. And in places you could see a slight 'shadow' through it......

 

***Through the years; the best way i've found to apply this is: Thin enough to not drip / thick enough get some decent coverage - and fast enough so that where you come to the join where you started - you don't scuff / tear / rip up the paint....as it does dry fast in this respect.

 

So each wheel came off individually using a protective 19mm socket so as not to mark the wheels:

 

CeAsHIS.jpg

 

Re-lube up each bolt in readiness with some Aluminium grease, Torque wrench ready at 130Nm (Also applied some high temp sealant  [FKP1000] to the inside bell of each wheel while i waited for paint to dry enough to re-mount them):

 

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And looks so much better now with two coats on ! [And any slight overpaint on the discs will soon clear off the first time the brakes are used in earnest}:

 

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Also "discovered" there's two clips that act as a pen holder in the glove-box. Alas - i had no pen present 😞 No problem. One reassuringly expensive plastic ballpoint pen purchase later and the World is a better place 😂 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porsche-Ballpoint-Pen-Black-in-Softtouch-Looks-Genuine-2017/253462128861?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

pRDYdUd.jpg

 

 

Cheers and have fun whatever you're up to this weekend..........

 

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Another week in Porsche Paradise:

 

Had a good run out in the car last Bank Holiday weekend; where me and the wife went to the seaside for some fish and chips. And sorted a couple of very small gripes left to sort Sunday. Still feels very special to drive; and i've really not pushed it to any degree in a straight line or otherwise yet. We're just becoming 'good friends' first 😎 But the experience, ambiance and occasion continues to grow on me. Love it !

 

But hey; We can't end it there by only mentioning the highs of Porsche ownership. I've not spunked any money, scraped my knuckles doing some seemingly easy little job on paper, sworn at the price of some innocuous small part i fancied renewing or mentioned i got some choice hand-signals whilst sitting stationary last weekend (Presumably JUST for being a Porsche owner ?) yet......

 

So to somewhat keep Yin and Yang in balance i've today ordered an OE equipment - LUK Dual Mass Flywheel / Sachs clutch 'kit':

 

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Along with a new genuine coolant cap:

 

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And has the very tip of anyone else's bonnet release catch got a sun-bleached white spot on the end of the red handle - where it sits out in the sun - in the gap between bumper and bonnet ?

 

Mine has. And i'm sorting it this weekend with this: (Which i've used before on various automotive parts and is awesome quality and hard-wearing)

 

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Enjoy your Porsche weekend too..........

 

 

 

 

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Another niggle sorted - and so much better looking for a few hours work.....

 

Before: with sun-faded bonnet release catch:

 

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Painted and trim all back together:

 

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After a final clean and tidy-up:

 

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And now not visible from the outside when shut; the new black colour blending in with the black trim below it - through the bonnet / bumper gap:

 

XK3yRDY.jpg

 

Edited by sevenfourate
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12 hours ago, Tozerman said:

Loving all these little jobs. Keep up the good work 👍

Although the bonnet catch job is way ott. 

Nice thread.... 

 

Way OTT ?  Compliment accepted Thankyou !

 

Engineer by trade, Virgo by Starsign and anal by design. I do have ‘issues’ I fully admit 🤣

 

Away on holiday next Tuesday. So cars been dropped in for clutch and DM flywheel fitting etc today. Mechanic is intending to use mine as a hospital job and do an hour here or there to squeeze me in and get the car done and back to me before I go away.

 

Fingers crossed.....

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I have to say the sun-bleached bonnet release annoyed me too, but I went for the rather more rudimental option of wrapping it in black electrical tape! :) 

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16 minutes ago, Ben said:

I have to say the sun-bleached bonnet release annoyed me too, but I went for the rather more rudimental option of wrapping it in black electrical tape! :) 

 

Knew I couldn’t possibly be alone in this muddle ! 

 

And at at least your solution didn’t run into most of a weekend with the inevitable cleaning, faffing around and general fannying about that my method and madness brought with it....😳

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Now this is kind of interesting. Ive spoken to Zensport in Essex about remapping. Having done this on a couple of n/a cars and knowing the quoted bhp / torque figures mean little - and the fact all the manufactured standard constrictions can be ‘overcome’ - and the real World driving hugely improved.

 

**My Clio RS200 for example only gained 10 odd bhp. But went from feeling like a highly strung 2 litre - to a torque hungry turbo diesel. I exaggerate slightly but the difference was large and very noticeable.

 

Be interested in others thoughts and experiences:

 

“Hi Syer

 

Remap Quotation: 2007 Cayman 2.7 – Reg No: SIA 391

 

Thank you for your enquiry. This model achieves some great results and is very safe to work on. Our technicians are very familiar with this model and will be happy to carry out the work while you wait (approx. 2hrs), or you can drop off and collect at your convenience (24hr drop off & collection facility).

 

Approximate Gains: Power +21bhp / Torque +18Nm (see below)

 

Price: £230+vat Includes Diagnostic Pre-Check, Vehicle Assessment, ECU Programming and Test Drives both Before and After. This special offer price is valid for 14 days. We recommend you contact us at least 3 workings days for booking availability. We are sorry we do not work weekends.

 

 

10 Things You Should Know ...

 

1. We custom write the programme for every vehicle based on exactly what you are looking to achieve from the remap and take into account your vehicles age, mileage, usage, and your driving style.

 

2. The Power & Torque figures given are approximate as it varies from customer to customer, and depends on the kind of mapping you agree with your technician when you bring your car in.

 

3. We always improve the performance and drivability and in most cases the economy too, but this depends on a number of things. Pease check with your technician. 

 

4. Whatever style of mapping you decide, you will feel the difference immediately and pay only when you are happy with the results...we can’t be fairer than that!

 

5. We programme within the manufacturer’s specifications so that components are not put under excessive stress and to ensure long term reliability.

 

6. All work is carried out in-house, using the latest technology equipment, and industry leading, fully licensed software.

 

7. Our IMI certified technicians are fully trained, highly experienced, and friendly.

 

8. All our work is guaranteed and our technicians, premises, and work fully insured.

 

9. We offer a unique 30-Day Satisfaction Guarantee too, so you can try out your new remap and have it re-tweaked if you are not 100% satisfied. Your vehicle can also be returned to standard at any time.

 

10. ECU remapping is our core business, not a “side-line earner” like many others. We have carried out 100’s of jobs over the last 10 years for the trade, and for the public, on all types of private, and commercial vehicles from Peugeots to Porches.

 

Read 100’s of 5 star reviews on Google or Facebook www.facebook.com/ZensportUK

 

 

If you would like to book, or have a chat with a technician please pop in or call us on 01376 335947 (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm).”

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My Birthday yesterday - we’re away on a break in Malta - but had a message from my mechanic to say the bargain LUK / Sachs clutch and flywheel kit I bought for a measly £374 on eBay was the correct one and is all done and fitted with zero issues.

 

Great timing on the news. And also great for the fact that there was some confusion the clutch itself ‘may’ not have been the right one. (Bargain car parts - who are ECP effectively) said they would change it no problem if that was the case. But the potential for getting messy in that respect was there......

 

Before I left I asked my man to replace all exhaust fixings putting it back together; fit a new RMS and do anything else required / noticed while in there. I can only presume sitting here that’s all been done as asked - and is encapsulated in his ‘All went ok’ statement. 

 

Also had word from my paint man that he’s ready to take the car in to have the bonnet: and 2 other small marks looked at on the 23rd.

 

Apart from ongoing maintenance - that’s pretty much every niggle I had with the car now sorted, and it’s right up to my lofty standards in every respect I think.

 

Now to decide IF I ‘just’ remap it - or if I truly leave absolutely bog standard. The latter does appeal slightly more if I’m honest - as much as I know how much difference to real-World driving a remap can make.

 

Decisions decisions.....

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On 16/09/2019 at 09:51, Craiglm68 said:

First world problems now by the sounds, enjoy the break!

 

Indeed Craig. She's only ever going to be a Garage Queen / Sunday toy.....and no problem i'll ever have will be anything other than a way to waste some of the the supposed working week 'worrying' over 🙄

 

 

***I did ask here on the Forum Feedback section if we could be allowed to edit and update even the initial post in 'build threads;' to somewhat silently update specs / mods / costs etc perhaps; without having to start a new post in that topic as per this one. But heard nothing at all 😧 So.....

 

 

My LUK Dual Mass flywheel / SACHS clutch kit, thrust bearing etc are in and fitted - and i think that concludes any small mechanical gripes i had 😎 My mechanic says the clutch unsurprisingly drives 110% now [I'm only just back from Holiday and haven't driven or even collected the car yet myself] - and the small 'judder / vibration' that was sometimes felt when pulling away / reversing - especially when cold - are completely gone. He said the issues looked to likely be with the old flywheel - not the clutch / pressure plates etc per-se. Along with new rear brake discs and pads, a brake refresh, a new Air-Oil separator, 4 new tyres and a full service and oil change just before i purchased the car - we should be absolutely tip-top mechanically now. For quite some time - fingers crossed.

 

So............ now i can start on a couple of cosmetics. Firstly paint. And that starts Monday where i shall have the first drive of the car with new clutch kit in; when i pick it up and run it straight to my painters 🙄 Initially this was 'just' for a bonnet respray. But like all things with me - this has escalated: and now includes a couple of other non-perfect areas (Inner rear lips on rear bumper from tyre debris being thrown up, a mark in the lacquer on the rear near-side arch face; and a mark to the underside of the front nearside sill - where it looks like something has been 'thrown-up' from the gutter and removed a small piece of paint) that nark me. Best get it all done at once, from the same batch of paint and all that 👍

 

After that it's the recovering / New leather / Alcantara finishing of handbrake. And the 're-finishing / re-covering' of the centre console - where the rubberised / soft-touch finish has worn in a couple of places. Not sure what exactly i fancy yet - still currently researching and figuring out what will fit in with; or slightly update the interior. But as with the OEM or perhaps OEM+ flavour of this car - whilst it might involve Black leather and Anthracite stitching on the console (For example) - it definitely won't involve neon green paint, Glow in the dark Pink strobes to the underside - with Shelby stripes running diagonally across the lot for good luck 🤣 (For example ). ***And there's nothing inherently wrong with this either if that's your thing............... 🤢

 

I've also bought a super-soft indoor / garage dust cover late last week - and arriving soon. From a highly rated company who's covers i have once previously used; and found very good. And this one was at an absolute bargain price. I'll update on how good the fit is on the Cayman; and if it was therefore anything like the bargain i'm hoping it should be when it arrives - so that it might help others interested......

 

Costs to date:

 

£50 : Genuine Satin Black  rear Cayman badge - July 19.

£60 : New Wheel bolts x 20 - July 19. 

£178 : Rear Texstar pads / Sebro discs - July 19.

£40 : ATE 200 High temp Brake fluid - July 19.

£67 : New Air Oil separator - July 19. 

£250 : Eurocup Stainless exhaust tips + clamp - Aug 19.

£250 Fitting for the above - Aug 19.

£250 : Wheels powder coated - Aug 19.

£600 Bridgestone N1 tyres and New centre caps - Aug 19.

£100 : Anon (Hub Paint, Total coolant, C-Tek charger harness etc) - Aug 19.

£65 : Lower door decals - Aug 19.

£60 : fitting of decals - Aug 19.

£170 : Machine polish - Aug 19.

£23 : Genuine coolant cap - Aug 19. 

£374 - LUK Dual Mass flywheel / Sachs clutch kit - Sept 19.

£300 : Clutch / RMS fitting - Sept 19.

Circa £750: Bonnet respray / Paint-work - Sept 19.

 

Cheers for checking-in.

 

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Just picked the car up after the clutch replacement to run it the 1/2 mile to the paint shop - and I have a slight ‘tap’ from the engine which after sitting still and not moving or running for nearly 2 weeks: I can only presume is a lifter. My paint man who also does mechanics to some degree and is very mechanically minded thinks the same.

 

***I’ve not heard or had any inkling of this previously in 2 months ownership.

 

Whats the prognosis ? Will a few miles under its belt likely sort this out ? Ok to drive as-is or get looked at once paint is completed ? ****Not even sure if they are solid or hydraulic lifters.......

 

#slightlyconcerned 😯

 

Thanks.

Edited by sevenfourate
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20 hours ago, sevenfourate said:

Just picked the car up after the clutch replacement to run it the 1/2 mile to the paint shop - and I have a slight ‘tap’ from the engine which after sitting still and not moving or running for nearly 2 weeks: I can only presume is a lifter. My paint man who also does mechanics to some degree and is very mechanically minded thinks the same.

 

***I’ve not heard or had any inkling of this previously in 2 months ownership.

 

Whats the prognosis ? Will a few miles under its belt likely sort this out ? Ok to drive as-is or get looked at once paint is completed ? ****Not even sure if they are solid or hydraulic lifters.......

 

#slightlyconcerned 😯

 

Thanks.

 

I'm no expert but I believe the 987 has a very 'tappy' engine, with ticking/tapping noises being more prevalent due to the flat 6 configuration.  So hopefully nothing to worry about.   

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36 minutes ago, Ben said:

 

I'm no expert but I believe the 987 has a very 'tappy' engine, with ticking/tapping noises being more prevalent due to the flat 6 configuration.  So hopefully nothing to worry about.   

 

Quite possibly Ben - Thankyou.

 

Its not the quietest engine I’ve ever owned agreed and they do have a ‘character’ for sure: but: this is a tap I’ve definitely not heard in the 2 months previous. Not stupid loud. Definitely top end - and 100% a new noise.

 

With a bit of Googling I’m lead to believe it will be oil that’s leaked out from a hydraulic lifter (exaggerated by the fact the lifters llay horizontally not vertically) and a good run up to temp / a few ‘blats’ will very likely see the lifter pressure up / prime / fill with oil and be completely normal again.  I also gather these engines love to be used - and a couple of weeks sitting still - is a prime candidate reason for this to occur.

 

I gather its somewhat ‘normal’ all in all.......

 

We’ll see once paint is complete !

 

Cheers again.

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That is a shitter after all you have done to it and the money you have spent. 

I can start mine after a couple of weeks and it is perfectly quiet. 

May be your garage can take a look, don't you have a warranty? 

I think it is a straight forward job to change them in the right hands. 

Good luck 🤞 

 

 

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9 hours ago, Tozerman said:

That is a shitter after all you have done to it and the money you have spent. 

I can start mine after a couple of weeks and it is perfectly quiet. 

May be your garage can take a look, don't you have a warranty? 

I think it is a straight forward job to change them in the right hands. 

Good luck 🤞 

 

 

Thanks for the support !!

 

If you Google the noise / problem - it’s extremely common. Not quite  the fact it’s abnormal if you don’t get it at some point - but you get my drift.

 

And if you think about the fact these are oil filled / hydraulic lifters laying horizontally - it’s hardly surprising. One piece of info that makes it simple to understand was:

 

“Just give it a run the lifters will settle down then, the engine May have stopped on full lift with one valve and the valve spring will force the oil out of a lifter”.

 

And that seems to sum it up really.  No owners, potential purchasers, dealers or my mechanic (And Porsche owner) are concerned in any way about it really. Many also say an oil change cured their issues. 

 

Having looked mine was changed 6 months / 1k ago - and Mobil1 0w-40 was used.

 

This appears to be a great oil - and certainly solely used from new by Porsche. But supposedly with a few miles under their belt - a 5w-40 grade can / may be a better oil to use. And is a recommended grade from Porsche.

 

So in the first instance I’ve yesterday bought 10L of new A40 Porsche approved Mobil 3000 X1 fully synthetic oil and a new filter to see where that leaves me. Might seem OTT but having done so few miles - I have read of similar cars having up 7% water in the oil through condensating.....

 

Worst case and a new set of lifters needed isn’t exactly the end of the World.

 

Cheers !

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Mine ticks a bit if its been sat for a while, although I have the later MA1 engine with the oil pumps on my 987.2, after my holiday it tapped a bit, but cleared once it had warmed up.

 

Its a big engine with lots of oil, so take a bit to warm up and get oil everywhere, another reason to warm them up gently.

 

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58 minutes ago, GlosRich said:

Mine ticks a bit if its been sat for a while, although I have the later MA1 engine with the oil pumps on my 987.2, after my holiday it tapped a bit, but cleared once it had warmed up.

 

Its a big engine with lots of oil, so take a bit to warm up and get oil everywhere, another reason to warm them up gently.

 

 

Thanks Rich.

 

Im genuinely not concerned right now - considering it’s been ‘perfect’ - and then ticks after not moving. Not possible any real damage per-se could have happened with an engine that hadn’t so much as turned over. ...

 

Yea your right. Big engine, lots of oil, horizontal lifters etc: will need a few miles and some temperature now to get it all lubed again.

 

And I can’t wait until the body shop have done their bit so I can do that.

 

Cheers.

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