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More woes - floppy gear lever, broken cable?


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Luckily only 400m from Home, changing down to 2nd to pull into our estate and the gear lever went straight over to the left and flops about - ie no resistance where reverse is. 

 

I dont seem to be able to select reverse, 1st or 2nd. Limped Home and into garage in 3rd (I think). 

 

Now this was my first drive since picking up yesterday after clutch replacement. To ask the obvious question, would the gear linkage cables need disconnecting for a clutch change? Might they have reattached incorrectly? 🤔🤨

 

or it’s just plain bad luck and in the same week my gear cables have now broken... 😳😱🙁😠🤬

 

But in other news, my DIY front pads change went perfectly well, although it took me 3hrs RHS, & 1hr LHS. YouTube would have you believe it’s a 10 minute job. But at least I now have shiny new Textar pads and brand new sensors and clips and pins etc. 👍🏻😁

 

🤪

Edited by Windymiller
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Yep would have thought the cables would have to come off for the clutch.

 

If you get on your back and shine a torch up you can see them.

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1 minute ago, GlosRich said:

Yep would have thought the cables would have to come off for the clutch.

 

If you get on your back and shine a torch up you can see them.

Quite literally can’t be arsed to go anywhere near the f🤬🤬🤬ing thing again today after spending 4hrs in the garage doing the front pads. 

 

Presumably I need to remove the under trays to ‘look up’ at anything?

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https://www.flickr.com/gp/61155387@N08/te07V0

 

Jason, you should be able to see if one of the cables has become disconnected or broken with the undertrays in place.  My photo should give you an idea of where to look.  The triangular plate on top of the gearbox is where the cables clip into, right above the driveshafts, and the ball connectors on the gearbox selector levers are where the cable ends clip on to.

 

PM me if you need more pictures or explanation.

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16 hours ago, Daz said:

How come it took you 4hrs to do pads?

I’m a slow worker 😉

 

and needed a mid job return to eurocarparts for new sensors, anti-vibe plates, sprung pad retaining clips, retaining pins and cotter pins - all of which I’d hoped would be reusable but weren’t

 

also although I have a double garage it handily has a division wall in the middle so had to faff about moving car across from side to side in it between sides of work to have sufficient clearance for jack and to remove wheels. 

 

And, one of the anti-vibe plates is stuck in the Caliper (one of the Ali ‘spigots’ off the plate seems to be corroded into the Caliper piston) and I couldn’t get it out, and didn’t want to create another job of Caliper removal (and I don’t have torque bolt bits big enough to undo the Caliper bolts) so ended up leaving it in and reusing that one. 

 

When I do a pads and discs change in the future then that plate can come out. 

 

Now back to the flobby knob issue.... 😳

 

😁

Edited by Windymiller
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3 hours ago, Woodhouse said:

https://www.flickr.com/gp/61155387@N08/te07V0

 

Jason, you should be able to see if one of the cables has become disconnected or broken with the undertrays in place.  My photo should give you an idea of where to look.  The triangular plate on top of the gearbox is where the cables clip into, right above the driveshafts, and the ball connectors on the gearbox selector levers are where the cable ends clip on to.

 

PM me if you need more pictures or explanation.

Thanks Woodhouse, that was very helpful. 

 

So car is jacked up on axle stands, rear wheels off.

 

neither gear cable has become disconnected from its respective ‘spigot’ (new favourite word this wknd 😁). So a ‘relief’ that its not as a result of any poor workmanship during the clutch change.

 

However, the drivers side cable seems very ‘loose’ / easy to move back and forth, like it’s not actually connected to anything. Especially compared to the passenger side one that has a reassuring ‘notchiness’ to its movement. 

 

So im thinking the cable itself might have snapped. 🤔

 

time for some numerics race cables possibly then.... 😏

 

am gonna try to remove the gear lever shroud to see if anything ‘easy’ / obvious has disconnected up that end. 

Edited by Windymiller
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Glad you got it fixed and no further costs. 

 

I had a shim stick when I changed my disc and pads. When you change disc be careful with bolt that hold hydraulic hose to strut. Mine sheared. One of the guys on hear gave me a top tip. Swap bolt for stud and nut. Then nut lock stud in. Apparently  quite common for them to snap. I had a cold sweat when I had to take a drill to the strut and tap and rethread. Which I haven't done for 25 years. Ddp not want to do it again.

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On 11/08/2019 at 08:51, Woodhouse said:

https://www.flickr.com/gp/61155387@N08/te07V0

 

PM me if you need more pictures or explanation.

Hey mate, tried to PM you but the site says you can’t be PM’d 🤔

 

 I notice your box has a completely different, and more robust looking  linkage between the 2 ‘actuation’ points across the triangular plate. It’s like a metal bar with ‘grommeted’ connectors on either end (similar to the actual gear cable connectors). Whereas mine is a cheap moulded single piece of plastic like in the google image I posted. 

 

Is your car gen 1 / 2? 2.9 / 3.4?

 

Have you changed the linkage yourself?

 

im intrigued as to why mine is different (other than a cost-cutting exercise by Porsche). I can’t believe my car was rendered ‘undrivable’ by a 50pence piece of plastic popping off - astonishing, that the gearbox on a ~£50k (when new) prestige sports car has such a ‘weak link’.... 😏🤨

Edited by Windymiller
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So it was my third day out in the car today (I went on holiday the day after I picked it up). Lost first gear and occasionally reverse... I’m booked in tomorrow to have it looked at, and luckily the warranty will cover it. But grrrr.

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7 hours ago, Jon Panayi said:

So it was my third day out in the car today (I went on holiday the day after I picked it up). Lost first gear and occasionally reverse... I’m booked in tomorrow to have it looked at, and luckily the warranty will cover it. But grrrr.

Sounds like it might hopefully just be the ‘scrinson-doofer’ linkage over the top (the black plastic bit in the photo attached to one of my earlier posts on this thread)... 🤔

 

it connects between the 2 ‘selector plates’ on top of the box, each of which are pushed/pulled into position depending on which gear you select on the lever. 

 

If it’s just that, then it’s a 10 minute job to jack up and pop back on / replace. 

 

If its snapped cables then it’s a days job for them - but at least your under warranty with it 👍🏻

 

Hope you get it sorted, let us know the diagnosis and cure 😉

Edited by Windymiller
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17 hours ago, Windymiller said:

Hey mate, tried to PM you but the site says you can’t be PM’d 🤔

 

 I notice your box has a completely different, and more robust looking  linkage between the 2 ‘actuation’ points across the triangular plate. It’s like a metal bar with ‘grommeted’ connectors on either end (similar to the actual gear cable connectors). Whereas mine is a cheap moulded single piece of plastic like in the google image I posted. 

 

Is your car gen 1 / 2? 2.9 / 3.4?

 

Have you changed the linkage yourself?

 

im intrigued as to why mine is different (other than a cost-cutting exercise by Porsche). I can’t believe my car was rendered ‘undrivable’ by a 50pence piece of plastic popping off - astonishing, that the gearbox on a ~£50k (when new) prestige sports car has such a ‘weak link’.... 😏🤨

 

Yes, I noticed yours was different.  Mine was a Gen 1 3.4S and I'm pretty sure it was standard, not modified.  

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1 hour ago, Woodhouse said:

 

Yes, I noticed yours was different.  Mine was a Gen 1 3.4S and I'm pretty sure it was standard, not modified.  

Shameless cost cutting exercise by Porsche then, replace a £5metal part with a 50p moulded plastic part between gen1 to gen 2... 🤔

 

It’s probably made of chocolate on 981s, and marshmallow fluff on 982s.... 🤨😳 🤪

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Just a thought could it be a sacrificial part designed to break before a more expensive part breaks when abused.     

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