Jump to content

Ceramic coating


Recommended Posts

Anyone got first hand knowledge of this process. Seems like a good idea as my car will be outside for the early part of the winter. MY car is a Guards Red 2007 MY. the only corrosion I can see on the paintwork is an identical patch on both sides of the front wheelarch. Its an area about the size of a thumb mail near the rear of the arch where stones will get thrown up. 

 

Eddie E18CAY

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Eddie,

 

Quite a big article in the cleaning section on this:

 

I've just put CarPro Cquartz, good value at around £40, says it lasts for 18 months at least, on my wife'e new car:

 

https://carpro.uk.com/products/cquartzuk30?variant=12168231977054

 

Some issues to consider:

 

1. Its better on a new car, unless you can machine polish the swirls out of your car, or pay to have it done, as the coating seals in any defects for however long it lasts, usually 18 months - 2 years.

2. Car needs to be forensically clean before you apply it, de-tarred, de-contaminated, clayed, and then wiped down with Isopropyl alcohol.

3. This time of year you need to do it indoors, as it needs to stay dry as long as possible to cure, ideally 24 hours.

 

Most of our cars have that patch of rust, its a design fault, the stonechip protection should of gone higher. I masked mine off, carefully rubbed it down, treated with rust killer, primed and painted it.

 

Will probably put some clear film over it to protect it.

 

Rich

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you down the route of doing it, get it applied by an accredited professional. There is a lot can go wrong.  I am forever fixing failed ceramic coatings from home use or untrained professionals

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have Fireball Dok Do on my CR and it's fantastic.  I would recommend self applying a coating on newly refurbed/painted wheels and the windscreen, but not on the paint of the whole car.  It really needs a pro to be done right.  As said above, the swirls get locked in unless they're buffed out with a rotary polisher - which itself can also be deadly in untrained hands.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure it's as difficult as made out.

 

As long as you prepare the paint properly and do it inside in the dry, and keep it dry until cured, it should be fine.

 

Correct wash maintenance also, so the coating is not damaged.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, briggy said:

Eddie,

 

As per our conversation at the technical seminar, go and have a chat with Nigel https://glos-detailing.co.uk

 

IMG_1048.jpg.c0182261be20bac1b6ad5ccc02746901.jpg

 

Cheers,

Bryan

I had a chat with Nigel about coating my wife's new car, which didn't require any correction, just decontamination before coating.

He quoted me £500 for a 2 year coating. £700 for a 3 year, and £900 for a 5 year multi layer coating.

Wheels were £150 extra.

It's just a Merc A class so only small.

 

I thought that was expensive for a new car, maybe not so bad for a used one requiring a lot of correction.

 

If the £500 had been £250, I may have gone for it, but when you can diy for £40, even if I only get 1 year out of it, it's better value.

 

Edited by GlosRich
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's the thing though, you can't truly DIY it for £40.

 

Correction and ceramic coating costs me a minimum of £150 for materials. 

 

Then add your usual costs of business on, It not long adding up.

 

Even on a brand new car, he will still have done a single stage polish on the car as prep 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, GlosRich said:

I had a chat with Nigel about coating my wife's new car, which didn't require any correction, just decontamination before coating.

He quoted me £500 for a 2 year coating. £700 for a 3 year, and £900 for a 5 year multi layer coating.

Wheels were £150 extra.

It's just a Merc A class so only small.

 

I thought that was expensive for a new car, maybe not so bad for a used one requiring a lot of correction.

 

If the £500 had been £250, I may have gone for it, but when you can diy for £40, even if I only get 1 year out of it, it's better value.

 

 

Vivid Car Care in Newport did my CR for quite a bit less.  Give him a call and get a quote.  You're looking at about £150 just for the paint correction, however.  I'm pretty sure his 2 year coating was £200 (but this was 2 years ago).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My OPC supplied used Caymans` had their gtechniq Platinum treatment, complete exterior and interior with a five year warranty. This is a dealer only package and was £500 - £600; it is inspected annually when in for the MoT. 

 

The second and current car had the exterior coating `replaced` at the first anniversary, it was found to be faulty ... losing adhesion. All that I had noticed was that the roof had become `less smooth` when being washed. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A decent Detailing company here in Lowestoft did my Clio 200 (Not sure how that compares amount of surface area wise; compared to a Cayman - similar i suspect !).

 

2-Stage machine polish, 2 coats of CarPro Cquartz UK 3.0 and wheels removed, prepped and given 2 coats of KKD R-evolve was £500.00. Which i thought was pretty good value.......

 

t2XLULf.jpg?1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the input. I fully intended to have it done professionally.. They are talking about £5-600 but with a warranty of 5+ years. I've 'clayed' a car before and appreciate the work involved.  The only problem is that he wants £400 to rectify the rust areas on both sides.... which entails re-doing both wings!  I took the car to my local body shop where the guy did a bare metal respray on my 54TF. He's talking about a similar amount! Given the bare area is confined to the return edge and will no doubt suffer again I think that's excessive. so I think I'll have a go with my Dremel, some etch primer, filler and topcoat and see where I get. I did consider getting a firm like "chips away" but there's nobody local to me. What is the clear film  stone resistant plastic coating called. and will I get it from the paint shop

Eddie  E18CAY

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't dare use chips away or something similar.  No one should paint a car outside of a paint booth, and no one should accept the standard of finish it produces.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Eddie, unscrew the wheel arch liners when you do it, so you can treat the back of that rusty area also.

 

Chap on eBay sells pre cut film for Cayman front wheel arch edge.

 

I managed a very acceptable repair on mine, and as it's not a daily driver, it won't get in as bad state again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aaron, used chips away before ,with excellent results for small areas...  hence the reason I thought about them. guess it depends on the individual .

Rich, whats involved in removing the liners. Can it be done without jacking the car?

Eddie E18CAY

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Better to jack it up really. It's a few 10mm plastic nuts and some T25 screws. 

Liner has a join at 2 o'clock position, so rear section can be removed separately.

Check Jack points for rust also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.