Replacing front control arms....anything else worth considering?

[Craiglm68]

Fellow Caymanista's

My front control arms have been flagged as items needing replacement in the not too distant future so I've procured a pair from Meyle. Anything else worth replacing/doing at the same time?

Everything is standard and original as best I'm aware, circa 56K miles now

Cheers

Craig

[Dougle_turbo]

It's a pig of a job if the bolts have corroded to the arm. Before attempting it take a wheel off and undo the sub frame nut. If the bolt comes out then happy days, if not it will need to be cut out, and it's difficult to get the tools in there to do it. I've done it with a reciprocating sw and 4" battery disk cutter.

 

The disk cutter is much faster method but you need to be well versed in using it because you have to take the guard off to get the blade in there, not to mention not slipping and cutting through something you weren't supposed to! 🤣

[sevenfourate]

38 minutes ago, Dougle_turbo said:

 

The disk cutter is much faster method but you need to be well versed in using it because you have to take the guard off to get the blade in there.........

 

No guard = American Chopper stylee 🤣

 

***I've seen a couple of horrendous accidents happen this way. One nearly life changing. Anyone who use's one frequently has done this at some point. But as mentioned - proceed with caution.

 

Good luck to the OP BTW.

[Lennym1984]

On 16/10/2019 at 18:41, Dougle_turbo said:

It's a pig of a job if the bolts have corroded to the arm. Before attempting it take a wheel off and undo the sub frame nut. If the bolt comes out then happy days

 

Sound advice but to add a little encouragement, mine came off very easily when I did them on my old Boxster (which was well cared for but much older). The only bolt I ever really struggled with on that car was the nearside brake caliper bolt (there was a point after a lot of penetrating fluid, blow torches, and hammers, when I was almost on the verge of tears).

 

In terms of other jobs to do whilst you're down there, you might consider doing the tuning forks (although the fronts don't tend to be that problematic) and (if you track the car) you could consider fitting GT3 brake ducts.

 

Finally (and apologies if I am teaching you to suck eggs), you want to make sure that the suspension is weighted when you tighten up the chassis bolt. Without wheels on, this is easier said than done, but the usual approach is to jack the control arm (under the ball joint) until the car just starts to lift off the stand (be very careful and then readjust the stand)

 

Good luck!

 

 

[Dougle_turbo]

@Craiglm68 Sorry if I came across like a negative git! It's just that all 4 of mine were corroded solid! Hopefully your's will come out easily.