Jump to content

Rattling over bumps


Recommended Posts

Hi All,

 

My Cayman seems to rattle a lot over bumps on rough roads. Its coming from the rear, but sounds more like the tailgate, than the suspension.

 

I've tightened up the rubber stops, and that's improved it a lot.

 

I remember seeing a video on YouTube about the tailgate struts rattling, had anyone had that?

 

Thanks

 

Rich

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rich

 

It could be this?

 

http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/miscellaneous/p7-porsche-stopping-the-hatch-26quot-3bclunk-26quot-3b.html

 

Darren

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Darren,

I've heard of that counterweight in the hatch, and it seems that might be the source of the noise. I'll give the guide a go, its excellent.

 

Rich

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

After the service, the garage says my front control arms (tuning forks) have worn bushes and are causing this rattling.

 

Has anyone changed these themselves, they look relatively easy, just 2 18mm bolts, which you would add threadlock to and torque correctly.

 

Design911 sells them, £89 each for Meyle ones.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They're easy to fit as long as the bolts come undone. Depending on the age of the car they might be completely stuck with grime and take a lot of leverage to undo. Just be sure to get the suspension loaded before doing up any bolts.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Changed the 2 arms today. Took plenty of penetrating oil and a pole over the wrench to lever them un-done, after 10 years of use.

 

Used the Meyle ones, £89 each +VAT from Design911 - https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod132856/Control-Arm-Lower-Front-Porsche-987---987C---997_2_2/

 

The coffin arms looked in good shape and the anti-roll bar bushes also.

 

If anyone wants the tools here goes:

 

The anti roll bar bolts are 15mm with 15mm nuts, I torqued these to 50 Nm.

 

The control arm to subframe bolt is 18mm and I torqued this to 130Nm with Loctite threadlock also.

 

The control arm to coffin arm bolt is 18mm, and the nut is 21mm, a socket or ring spanner will not fit as the bottom of the shock is too close. Also torqued to 130Nm with Loctite threadlock also.

 

I slightly loosened the front subframe bolt to allow the new arms to slip in easier, this was a 16mm bolt. Also torqued to 130Nm with Loctite threadlock also.

 

I just had to unclip and move the plastic brake duct over to the new arm. Looking at the old arm, the bushing on the front was shot, you could move it easily by hand, so this was obviously knocking under load.

 

All put back together and torqued up, I'm pleased to report after a test drive its lovely and quiet, no knocking or rattling!

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, GlosRich said:

Changed the 2 arms today. Took plenty of penetrating oil and a pole over the wrench to lever them un-done, after 10 years of use.

 

Used the Meyle ones, £89 each +VAT from Design911 - https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod132856/Control-Arm-Lower-Front-Porsche-987---987C---997_2_2/

 

The coffin arms looked in good shape and the anti-roll bar bushes also.

 

If anyone wants the tools here goes:

 

The anti roll bar bolts are 15mm with 15mm nuts, I torqued these to 50 Nm.

 

The control arm to subframe bolt is 18mm and I torqued this to 130Nm with Loctite threadlock also.

 

The control arm to coffin arm bolt is 18mm, and the nut is 21mm, a socket or ring spanner will not fit as the bottom of the shock is too close. Also torqued to 130Nm with Loctite threadlock also.

 

I slightly loosened the front subframe bolt to allow the new arms to slip in easier, this was a 16mm bolt. Also torqued to 130Nm with Loctite threadlock also.

 

I just had to unclip and move the plastic brake duct over to the new arm. Looking at the old arm, the bushing on the front was shot, you could move it easily by hand, so this was obviously knocking under load.

 

All put back together and torqued up, I'm pleased to report after a test drive its lovely and quiet, no knocking or rattling!

 

 

 

 

 

Good work....mine were seized and had to use a recip to cut the bolt head off. 😭

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like a got away lightly there then. I drowned them in penetrating oil as much as I could first.

 

The old bushing was so worn, you could move it with virtually no force by finger...

 

Control arm.jpg

Edited by GlosRich
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

GlosRich, could you visibly see that your old bushing was worn while it was connected in place?

 

Was it obviously compressed?

 

Thanks, 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

58 minutes ago, maczi said:

GlosRich, could you visibly see that your old bushing was worn while it was connected in place?

 

Was it obviously compressed?

 

Thanks, 

 

Hi maczi, my independent diagnosed them as worn, so I just changed them. But I guess they would just pop a pry bar under then and wiggle it about to see how lose it was.

 

Its obscured by the wheel arch liner and the brake duct.

 

Not hard to change if you have the tools, and definately cheapest place to start before changing dampers. £89+VAT from design911.

 

Rich

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.