GlosRich Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 Hi All, My Cayman seems to rattle a lot over bumps on rough roads. Its coming from the rear, but sounds more like the tailgate, than the suspension. I've tightened up the rubber stops, and that's improved it a lot. I remember seeing a video on YouTube about the tailgate struts rattling, had anyone had that? Thanks Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 Rich It could be this? http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/miscellaneous/p7-porsche-stopping-the-hatch-26quot-3bclunk-26quot-3b.html Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlosRich Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 Thanks Darren, I've heard of that counterweight in the hatch, and it seems that might be the source of the noise. I'll give the guide a go, its excellent. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlosRich Posted April 23, 2019 Author Share Posted April 23, 2019 After the service, the garage says my front control arms (tuning forks) have worn bushes and are causing this rattling. Has anyone changed these themselves, they look relatively easy, just 2 18mm bolts, which you would add threadlock to and torque correctly. Design911 sells them, £89 each for Meyle ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicalShannon Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 No experience doing this but interested to see how you get on as mine is rattling at the front over bumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike3105 Posted April 23, 2019 Share Posted April 23, 2019 They're easy to fit as long as the bolts come undone. Depending on the age of the car they might be completely stuck with grime and take a lot of leverage to undo. Just be sure to get the suspension loaded before doing up any bolts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlosRich Posted May 1, 2019 Author Share Posted May 1, 2019 Changed the 2 arms today. Took plenty of penetrating oil and a pole over the wrench to lever them un-done, after 10 years of use. Used the Meyle ones, £89 each +VAT from Design911 - https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod132856/Control-Arm-Lower-Front-Porsche-987---987C---997_2_2/ The coffin arms looked in good shape and the anti-roll bar bushes also. If anyone wants the tools here goes: The anti roll bar bolts are 15mm with 15mm nuts, I torqued these to 50 Nm. The control arm to subframe bolt is 18mm and I torqued this to 130Nm with Loctite threadlock also. The control arm to coffin arm bolt is 18mm, and the nut is 21mm, a socket or ring spanner will not fit as the bottom of the shock is too close. Also torqued to 130Nm with Loctite threadlock also. I slightly loosened the front subframe bolt to allow the new arms to slip in easier, this was a 16mm bolt. Also torqued to 130Nm with Loctite threadlock also. I just had to unclip and move the plastic brake duct over to the new arm. Looking at the old arm, the bushing on the front was shot, you could move it easily by hand, so this was obviously knocking under load. All put back together and torqued up, I'm pleased to report after a test drive its lovely and quiet, no knocking or rattling! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dougle_turbo Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 17 minutes ago, GlosRich said: Changed the 2 arms today. Took plenty of penetrating oil and a pole over the wrench to lever them un-done, after 10 years of use. Used the Meyle ones, £89 each +VAT from Design911 - https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod132856/Control-Arm-Lower-Front-Porsche-987---987C---997_2_2/ The coffin arms looked in good shape and the anti-roll bar bushes also. If anyone wants the tools here goes: The anti roll bar bolts are 15mm with 15mm nuts, I torqued these to 50 Nm. The control arm to subframe bolt is 18mm and I torqued this to 130Nm with Loctite threadlock also. The control arm to coffin arm bolt is 18mm, and the nut is 21mm, a socket or ring spanner will not fit as the bottom of the shock is too close. Also torqued to 130Nm with Loctite threadlock also. I slightly loosened the front subframe bolt to allow the new arms to slip in easier, this was a 16mm bolt. Also torqued to 130Nm with Loctite threadlock also. I just had to unclip and move the plastic brake duct over to the new arm. Looking at the old arm, the bushing on the front was shot, you could move it easily by hand, so this was obviously knocking under load. All put back together and torqued up, I'm pleased to report after a test drive its lovely and quiet, no knocking or rattling! Good work....mine were seized and had to use a recip to cut the bolt head off. 😭 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushman Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 its pretty common to have to cut the bolts off to change the coffin arms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlosRich Posted May 2, 2019 Author Share Posted May 2, 2019 (edited) Sounds like a got away lightly there then. I drowned them in penetrating oil as much as I could first. The old bushing was so worn, you could move it with virtually no force by finger... Edited May 2, 2019 by GlosRich 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maczi Posted May 23, 2019 Share Posted May 23, 2019 GlosRich, could you visibly see that your old bushing was worn while it was connected in place? Was it obviously compressed? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlosRich Posted May 23, 2019 Author Share Posted May 23, 2019 58 minutes ago, maczi said: GlosRich, could you visibly see that your old bushing was worn while it was connected in place? Was it obviously compressed? Thanks, Hi maczi, my independent diagnosed them as worn, so I just changed them. But I guess they would just pop a pry bar under then and wiggle it about to see how lose it was. Its obscured by the wheel arch liner and the brake duct. Not hard to change if you have the tools, and definately cheapest place to start before changing dampers. £89+VAT from design911. Rich 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now