Windymiller Posted July 19, 2020 Share Posted July 19, 2020 I know there’s endless mass-debating over which pads are best etc, etc, and I’ve been totally happy with the OE Textar pads to date both on road and the 5-6 tracks days a year I do. But I just fancy trying something different for a change (also considering Ferodo DS2500), so... had anyone got experience on a cayman specifically of the Brembo HP2000 pads, both for general road use and ‘enthusiastic’ (but not 110% committed) track use? 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windymiller Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 Perhaps defying the accepted convention that DS2500 are the pad of choice for road to track running, I have ordered the Brembo HP2000 pads from Design 911, along with Sebro slotted discs and all the accessories. I would have given the Kinetix grooved and dimpled discs a try that @Mavrik highly rates, but I cant find a website for Kinetix anymore, nor their G&D discs specifically for 987S front axle for sale anywhere. So I wonder if they've sadly gone under during COVID? I have a track day at Silverstone on August 24th, and a road trip to Scotlands P.E.N.I.S 287 (as immortalised in the Grand Tour) in September, so will come back here in a few weeks time to report on their performance in comparison to Sebro drilled discs with Textar pads that I have used to date. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mavrik Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, Windymiller said: I would have given the Kinetix grooved and dimpled discs a try that @Mavrik highly rates, but I cant find a website for Kinetix anymore, nor their G&D discs specifically for 987S front axle for sale anywhere. So I wonder if they've sadly gone under during COVID? ----------------------------------------------- @Windymiller I'm not sure you can buy direct from Kinetix? I bought mine from http://www.azcarparts.co.uk/ ... Wakefield, I believe? Try MTec online... They might be able to help? https://www.mtecbrakes.com/brake-discs/porsche/cayman-987-09-14/cayman-3-4-s-02-09-03-14.html I could only get the Kinetix for the front on my CS & have Brembo cross drilled on the rear but was able to get front & rear for my 350z GT HR My Kinetix on my CS & my Zed have been faultless despite the cheap price! ... I run DS2500 on both my cars & have no issues with pad fade & they're surprisingly quiet too... & they're a hell of a lot cheaper than the equivalent Pagid. I have no idea if AtoZ can source them now or if Kinetix had folded? Edited July 27, 2020 by Mavrik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mavrik Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 Imo though, it seems a bit pointless just upgrading "some" of the braking parts? You'll notice more of a difference if you change the MC to GT3 spec, braided lines, discs/pads & decent hi-spec fluid? My CS is transformed now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windymiller Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 (edited) 3 minutes ago, Mavrik said: Imo though, it seems a bit pointless just upgrading "some" of the braking parts? You'll notice more of a difference if you change the MC to GT3 spec, braided lines, discs/pads & decent hi-spec fluid? My CS is transformed now Agreed. GT3 MC went in in March. been running braided hoses and race temp bake fluid for past couple of years. just needed new pads and discs now though. Edited July 27, 2020 by Windymiller 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windymiller Posted July 31, 2020 Author Share Posted July 31, 2020 New ‘toys’ just arrived to keep me busy this wknd. really looking forward to feeling the difference with the slotted Sebro discs and Brembo sport pads vs drilled sebro discs and textar pads I’ve used the previous 3 years, especially at Silverstone next month 🏎🤪 the Brembo pads look so shiny-silver cool and are so beautifully packaged that I may not fit them at, rather I’ll just display them on the rear passenger shelf instead.... 🤩😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founder Beanoir™ Posted July 31, 2020 Founder Share Posted July 31, 2020 3 hours ago, Windymiller said: display them on the rear passenger shelf instead.... and suddenly the ‘clunk’ returns 🤣🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windymiller Posted July 31, 2020 Author Share Posted July 31, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Beanoir said: and suddenly the ‘clunk’ returns 🤣🤣 Not at this rate, cos I won’t be driving anywhere... The joys of DIY maintenance - left side went like a dream. Right side stuck as f**k 🤬 Time for drills and bigger hammers - not the obvious tools of choice to take to your Porsche... 😳😱🥺 Edited July 31, 2020 by Windymiller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windymiller Posted August 1, 2020 Author Share Posted August 1, 2020 (edited) so I got one disc screw out with a lot of hammering with a large flat ended punch and GT85 to eventually break the rust bonding. The other one I had to drill out with a 4mm bit, before then having to hammer like hell from the rear of the disc to finally get it off the wheel hub. I then gently drilled out the rest of the screws shank with a 5mm bit before retapping the hole to M6 1.0 (the thread diameter and pitch of the screw). It all went back together very well (this time with a LOT of anti-seize ali-grease)! 6.5hrs in total 2hrs left side, 4.5hrs right side 😳 quick 10 min test drive and they felt very sharp and no low temp squealing when braking. Silverstone on the 24th will be the real test. 👍🏻 Edited August 1, 2020 by Windymiller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted August 1, 2020 Share Posted August 1, 2020 I had the same. One side took 1.5 hrs the second 4 hrs. I snapped the bolt that held clamp where the fixed hydraulic hose joins the flexible. Ended up drilling out where it bolted to bottom of strut and re tapping. One of the guys on hear came with an excellent idea apparently quite common problem. His suggestion was to thread lock stud in place of bolt and then use a nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windymiller Posted August 1, 2020 Author Share Posted August 1, 2020 I had feared that’s where I’d have snags with but no, the 10mm bracket bolts came out easy-peasy thankfully. though I did have one of the pad backing plates ‘plugs’ stick in the caliper piston. But after unscrewing the shim from the plug (it’s an M5/M6 Philips Screw) I liberally squirted GT85 down the centre hole of the plug and left it a while then screwed in a ~40mm M5/M6 bolt and wound it all the way down through the plug until it bottomed out against the bottom of the piston and then it just slowly pushed the plug up and out as I continued to screw down the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz Posted August 1, 2020 Share Posted August 1, 2020 I had that with a shim. Very ingenious idea. There’s an old school engineer in there Mr windymiller 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windymiller Posted August 1, 2020 Author Share Posted August 1, 2020 3 hours ago, Daz said: I had that with a shim. Very ingenious idea. There’s an old school engineer in there Mr windymiller 😀 Long time ago in a previous life - I used to ‘work the spanners’ on helo’s in the RN Fleet Air Arm on the aft end of frigates and destroyers 🛳🚁🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now