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Trunk Clunk Fix - 'How to Guide'!


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11 minutes ago, Beanoir said:

I have to say I'm impressed with that, you must have too much time on your hands! 

Thanks Nick - can you tell I was an aircraft engineer once....

 

This week is unusually quiet for me....  

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • Beanoir™ pinned this topic
  • 3 weeks later...

Joined caymanoc just for this! Since I bought my Cayman R I’ve had an annoying clunk from the hatch lid - tried adjusting the rubber stops and it didn’t fix it, so looks like this is my next step. Super impressed by the professional DIY here!

Edited by EYEHAVEYOU
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8 minutes ago, EYEHAVEYOU said:

Joined caymanoc just for this! Since I bought my Cayman R I’ve had an annoying clunk from the hatch lid - tried adjusting the rubber stops and it didn’t fix it, so looks like this is my next step. Super impressed by the professional DIY here!

Glad you found us - hope the guide helps you out. Good luck, and welcome to the COC. 

 

Also, as you’ve joined the OC as an R owner, check out @Budflicker’S post in meets and events where he’s ‘promoting’ a 10year anniversary 987CR & Spyder event in 2021. 👍🏻

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On 04/09/2020 at 19:06, Windymiller said:

Glad you found us - hope the guide helps you out. Good luck, and welcome to the COC. 

 

Also, as you’ve joined the OC as an R owner, check out @Budflicker’S post in meets and events where he’s ‘promoting’ a 10year anniversary 987CR & Spyder event in 2021. 👍🏻

 

Thanks. Can't wait to see pics from the event, but as it's across the pond from me I don't think I'll be able to join. I'm familiar with his PTS Viper Green car from IG, my R is also a PTS oddly enough. 

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  • 2 months later...

I used this tutorial to fix my 987.2 with 20k on the clock.

 

My damper weight had a similar rip in the rubber bushing to Windymillers- see his excellent how to. Rather than buy a whole new damper, I stuck foam tape, about 25mm long x 10 wide in the gap between the bolt hole bushing and the edge. I also used similar tape to insulate the top and bottom surface of the damper unit from the trunk lid and the trim panel to restrict the flexing moment of the unit.

 

I also snuck a couple of 25mm strips of the tape into the edges of the plastic trim on the two longitudinal sides of the upper trunk surround panel to prevent it rubbing on the metal of the trunk.

 

Its all so quiet now, amazing. You don't really notice the noise too much until it stops. For the sake of a couple of quids worth of sticky foam tape and 30 mins its worth a look!

 

It does beg the question however, why not just remove the damper weight?

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  • 7 months later...

Windy, I take my hat off to you. Very kind of you to create this and share.

I love engineers!

Cheers Kim

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However, I'm not good at these DIY things, so is there a short cut I can use?

 

If for example I wound both my rubber bump stop stops all the way in, would I release each one a quarter of a turn until the clunking went? Or half a turn? Or a quarter on the left and a full one on the right? Or...etc etc.

 

I tried today and ended up experimenting, driving down the road the road and getting out of the car a thousand times. I still have a rattle across the outside top of the of the tailgate if I hit it with my hand.

 

Is there a way of fine-tuning this without having to go out and driving it every time?

 

cheers Kim

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What you’re doing with the tail-gate bump stops should work if your ‘rattle / clunk’ is the boot lid itself actually rattling in situ on the car whilst driving. If this is the issue then what you’re doing should sort it be process for trial and error - ie wind in, drive, listen for noise and wind out a half-turn at a time till noise goes. 
 

bit of its actual ‘trunk clunk’ then it might be that the mass damper weight is knocking against the tailgate  trim panel. In which case the fix is to disassemble and fit some spongy-foamy stuff as per the guide. 
 

Alternatively, turn up the stereo, or buy a Carnewal exhaust and drive everywhere over 5000rpm with your windows down… 😉😁
 

good luck 👍🏻

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Thanks for the reply, the Trunk Klunk only happens over small bumps in the road or un-made up roads, not constantly while driving.

 

 

 

Sp that sound like the mass damper maybe?

Edited by Kdh
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Not sure at all.

 

I have no means of jacking the car up and testing it.

 

My (non opc) garage is £120 plus per hour plus vat per to inspect it.

Edited by Kdh
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  • 2 months later...

I'm just having a go at this one and can't even get one of the hatch trim clips to pop out let alone 15 of them

 

I have the identical trim remover tools as in the instructions. I can get the tip of upholstery remover tool (circled) into the base of the clip but the tip just flexes when I apply ALOT of pressure. So sign of the clip even creaking let alone popping out?

 

d0TXSQ2.jpeg

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Eat some shredded wheat / spinach and give it a hefty levering down 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻 😉

 

I don’t know what else to say really. I recall they did present a lot of resistance and I was worried I’d snap the tool or the clips (or both). 
 

get the wide wedge one right in to open a good gap up for the narrower tool and lever down on the wedge (against the trim itself) as you also lever down adjacent to the clip itself with the narrow tool. 
 

where are you based? If close-ish to Aylesbury in bucks I could pop over.  Or you’re welcome to come to mine. 

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Ok, I see what you mean. Use the wide wedge to generate some downward force on the edge of the trim. At the same time, lever the upholstery tool in at the base of the clip against the painted metal of the hood itself (I've masked off the paint with tape to protect it).

 

So I'm basically levering the two tools in opposite directions to each other to double up on the downward for on the clip... if that makes sense...

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