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What brakes do you get?


SarlechS

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Hi Guys,

 

What discs/pads combos do you guys tend to go for?

 

Is it the standard Sebro Discs and Textar pads or have you found another combo that works really well? On previous cars i've delved into the aftermarket world of EBC and Ferodo/Dixcels and have always been impressed 

 

Interested to hear your thoughts...

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I always run Ferodo DS2500 compound pads F&R (have them on my 350z GT HR too)

 

I have Kinetix dimpled & slotted front discs with standard Brembo cross drilled rears. (Kinetix discs F&R on my Zed)

 

I don't see the point in upgrading just the discs & pads though? :35_thinking: I also have Goodridge SS braided lines & a GT3 master cylinder & top spec SRF React fluid & GT3 brake cooling fins/ducts...

Edited by Mavrik
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i had DS2500's on my DC2 ITR and they had great performance but were sometimes prone to squeaking which can be frustrating when in stop start traffic.

 

I'll be doing my hoses at the same time (as i got an MOT advisory for rusted lines) do you think its worth me moving away from the OEM hoses and going braided with Goodridge/HEL (had these on my DC2 too) I think the last time i tackled this job with my Porsche Tech (50k miles ago) he put in 4.1 fluid.

 

did you notice much difference with the master cylinder? is it more the brake feel and modulation or outright power?

 

Thanks

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Due to a mistake on my part (I didn't read the ebay advert carefully) I am currently running *Brakefit* pads (yup, I've never heard of them either). I put them on the car just as a stop gap until the decent ones arrive (Mintex 1144 which I had on my previous track car) and they are actually pretty decent (good bite, seem to be fairly predictable etc). I'm running them with Brembo discs on the front and pagid on the rear. Both are fine but as soon as the fronts are finished, I'll be swapping them out for grooved only.

 

I also have GT3 brake ducts, RBF600 fluid, and titanium shims to help manage the heat. I thought the titanium shims were BS but many people I speak to at track days run them and so far they appear to have  made a difference. I was able to cut out my own (rather than pay 100 quid an axle) so if anybody fancies trying them, I could probably make a few more sets for probably 50 quid an axle (the 0.8mm titanium itself is quite expensive)

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I have standard sebro drilled and textar pads rear, and have just upgraded to sebro slotted with Brembo HP2000 sport pads on front. 
 

also braided hoses, motul RBF600 fluid (changed annually as race fluids are hygroscopic and absorb moisture quicker, which reduces boiling temp (the ‘wet’ boil temp)), GT3 cooling ducts, GT3 master cylinder. 
 

I was on Silverstone GP last Monday, and am currently taking in the west highland roads this week in a spirited manner and my brakes have been consistent, fade free and well modulatable (if that is a real word 🤔🤷‍♂️) both on track and road. 
 

I find the combo of GT3 MC, braided hoses and fresh fluid = higher initial bite point of pads with a firmer feel throughout pedal travel. I feel this makes heel’n’toe rev-matching in down shifts easier as the gas and brake pedal are better aligned to enable covering simultaneously with right foot as left de-clutches. 
 

if I was just using on road only I’d stick with textar pads and sebro drilled discs front and rear, but still do the hoses, ducts, fluid and MC. 👍🏻

Edited by Windymiller
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5 hours ago, Budflicker said:

I have giro two piece discs up front and standard rear discs but RS29 pads all round.

 

Absolutely perfect even after a day going up and down mountain passes.


What 2 piece discs are you running? It’s on my list of things to look in to 

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13 hours ago, Budflicker said:

I have giro two piece discs up front and standard rear discs but RS29 pads all round.

 

There was a black Cayman R running larger diameter (Than standard discs) 2-piece slotted Giros at Silverstone last week.   The owner (Australian gent I think) was highly complimentary about them. He’d paid about £800 for front and rear discs and the extension pieces with which to mount the calipers further out. 
 

They sure looked the business 🤩

 

If I ever had the competence to drive fast enough on track I’m sure they’d be a worthy upgrade 😉🤪

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On 01/09/2020 at 16:20, SarlechS said:

i had DS2500's on my DC2 ITR and they had great performance but were sometimes prone to squeaking which can be frustrating when in stop start traffic.

 

I'll be doing my hoses at the same time (as i got an MOT advisory for rusted lines) do you think its worth me moving away from the OEM hoses and going braided with Goodridge/HEL (had these on my DC2 too) I think the last time i tackled this job with my Porsche Tech (50k miles ago) he put in 4.1 fluid.

 

did you notice much difference with the master cylinder? is it more the brake feel and modulation or outright power?

 

Thanks

I had pad squeal with my original Brembo pads but zero squeal with the DS2500 😉 No squeal on my Zed either!

 

Was the MOT advisory for the hardlines from caliper to flexi-hose?? ... Chances are you'll struggle to remove the flare nuts as they suffer from galvanic corrosion.

 

I ended up having to make my own hardlines as my flare nuts were fuked!! Then fitted Goodridge SS braided to replace the stock rubber flexi-hoses... Top Tip: When fitting the flare nuts use silicone grease on the threads to help inhibit galvanic corrosion 😉

 

No such thing as 4.1 fluid... Think you mean DOT 5.1 ?? ... In reality DOT 5.1 is no better than most decent DOT 4 fluids... The significant spec to look for with brake fluid is the wet boiling point... As the fluid is hygroscopic it will absorb water/moisture & lower the wet boiling point!

 

Your brake fluid should be changed every 2yrs regardless of mileage!!

 

The GT3 MC is prob the best upgrade I've fitted tbh... Much better feel & considerably less pedal travel making heel 'n' toe much easier ( the prices for the GT3 MC have come down considerably too! ... Can get them for around £90 now)

 

As for brake fluid, the way I look at it is would you use the best oil in your engine? ... If yes, then to me makes sense to use the best available brake fluid by spec!!

 

Don't buy brake fluid by the brand name... Read the specs... Castrol SRF React Racing is THE best on the market at present but at around £58-60 a litre it aint cheap!... Next best by spec is RBF600 & it's much cheaper 😉

 

Oh! ... By the way... The braking system only has a capacity of 0.39 litre so a litre for flushing is plenty...

Brake Fluid Chart.jpg

Edited by Mavrik
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23 hours ago, Lennym1984 said:

I also have GT3 brake ducts, RBF600 fluid, and titanium shims to help manage the heat. I thought the titanium shims were BS but many people I speak to at track days run them and so far they appear to have  made a difference. I was able to cut out my own (rather than pay 100 quid an axle) so if anybody fancies trying them, I could probably make a few more sets for probably 50 quid an axle (the 0.8mm titanium itself is quite expensive)

Hmm... I may be interested in a set of your Ti shims fella (fronts) ... You could prob sell a few here I reckon? :35_thinking:

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On 01/09/2020 at 18:14, Lennym1984 said:

(Mintex 1144 which I had on my previous track car)

I had the Mintex track compound pads on my MK Indyblade kit... Decent pads 👌

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I almost bought an MK Indy kit but then I had my Boxster totaled and it put me off the idea... 

 

I'll see if I can get some more shims cut out. The titanium takes a few weeks to arrive anyway.

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  • Founder

Pagid Drilled discs
Brembo pads
Goodridge SS hoses
Motul RBF 660 fluid

Bite is excellent and no squidge. I haven’t tried them in anger on track but that’s not really where I plan on playing in the 911.

Incidentally, I ran a completely standard brake setup on the Cayman R and never had any issues at all with fade or overheating. Like Pete, that was a weeks hard driving round the Alps, Wales, several track days. The initial travel was my only gripe with them, but it still wasn’t bad enough for me to need to change it.

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21 hours ago, Jon Panayi said:


What 2 piece discs are you running? It’s on my list of things to look in to 

https://www.girodisc.com/Girodisc-Rear-325mm-2-piece-Rotor-Upgrade-for-987-Porsche-Bosxter-SCayman-S_p_6460.html

 

https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod127730/Brake-Disc---Rotor-Slotted-2-pc-REAR-987-Cayman-S-R-and-987-Boxster-S/

These ones, they look the business as well as being very effective. 997 GT3 brake cooling ducts coming next.

Edited by Budflicker
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2 hours ago, Lennym1984 said:

I almost bought an MK Indy kit but then I had my Boxster totaled and it put me off the idea... 

 

I'll see if I can get some more shims cut out. The titanium takes a few weeks to arrive anyway.

My MK Indy was a BEC with a Fireblade engine... Was a hoot... Regretted selling it as soon as it went off into the sunset :-/

 

 

 

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Sebro slotted up front (they take an epic amount of abuse before they need changing - 25 plus track days), standard discs rear. Ds 1.1 or Ds 2500 work well on track, I'd recommend 2500 for road work as the 1.1 are LOUD. RBF 600 or 660 for the fluid. Braided hoses and GT3 cooling ducts. I also removed the arch liner and opened up some of the 'closed' vents with a dremel.

 

I have used standard discs and textar pads on track, and, assuming the fluid is fresh, it's not a bad setup.

 

Just changed the discs, think I got my monies worth.

 

IMG_5392.HEIC

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5 hours ago, Mavrik said:

I had pad squeal with my original Brembo pads but zero squeal with the DS2500 😉 No squeal on my Zed either!

 

Was the MOT advisory for the hardlines from caliper to flexi-hose?? ... Chances are you'll struggle to remove the flare nuts as they suffer from galvanic corrosion.

 

I ended up having to make my own hardlines as my flare nuts were fuked!! Then fitted Goodridge SS braided to replace the stock rubber flexi-hoses... Top Tip: When fitting the flare nuts use silicone grease on the threads to help inhibit galvanic corrosion 😉

 

No such thing as 4.1 fluid... Think you mean DOT 5.1 ?? ... In reality DOT 5.1 is no better than most decent DOT 4 fluids... The significant spec to look for with brake fluid is the wet boiling point... As the fluid is hygroscopic it will absorb water/moisture & lower the wet boiling point!

 

Your brake fluid should be changed every 2yrs regardless of mileage!!

 

The GT3 MC is prob the best upgrade I've fitted tbh... Much better feel & considerably less pedal travel making heel 'n' toe much easier ( the prices for the GT3 MC have come down considerably too! ... Can get them for around £90 now)

 

As for brake fluid, the way I look at it is would you use the best oil in your engine? ... If yes, then to me makes sense to use the best available brake fluid by spec!!

 

Don't buy brake fluid by the brand name... Read the specs... Castrol SRF React Racing is THE best on the market at present but at around £58-60 a litre it aint cheap!... Next best by spec is RBF600 & it's much cheaper 😉

 

Oh! ... By the way... The braking system only has a capacity of 0.39 litre so a litre for flushing is plenty...

Brake Fluid Chart.jpg

 
Some really good pointers there! - i believe the rust was on the calipers to the flexi hose, i'll have to double check to be honest but that's how they described them to me. They had the car off the ramps before i got given the green light, i'm getting under the car with my local porsche tech this week to take a look

 

apologies i meant dot 4 fluid not 4.1. I think i'll be adding a few item to my brake replacement now after this thread, definitely looking at the GT3 MC and with braided hoses and good fluid at a minimum and maybe the ducts. I've perfected heel and toe in it to be honest but i know exactly what you mean the pedals don't line up that well for it in standard form

 

 

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@mavrik i searched them they are coming up at crazy prices! £220 is the cheapest i can find. I'll keep an eye out and see if i can bag one for a good price. If not i'll stick with braided hoses and a rebleed with good fluid, i often find just a rebleeed sorts most of the pedal feel out. I can always add at a later date

 

cheers bud

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