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Track Day Prep


TritonII

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Starting to think about putting my Cayman S on the track for the first time for both of us and I have two initial questions:

 

1 - How can I go about checking the car's current noise level, don't want to pay for a track day and then get turned away.  Car has a Milltek system on it.  I see you can buy a noise meter to try and measure yourself, but the costs vary significantly and there doesn't appear to be any assurance that what you measure will then be the same when trackside.

 

2 - Current recommendations for tyre choice?  I will need new rubber before venturing on the track, what is considered the best current tyre?  The car will only be used for track days and spirited Sunday drives 😃

 

Thanks,

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36 minutes ago, Mavrik said:

You can turn up to any track when a track day is running and get it tested for free 😉

 

I run Yokohama AD08R on track & fast road... Much better crossover tyre than any of the Mich imo.

 

Check your pads! If they're low change out for crossover pads like DS2500... Renew your brake fluid! 

 

Best advice is drive to YOUR limits, not those around you!

 

Thanks @Mavrik good info about track testing, will be going to watch a few before entering anyway. (once spectators are allowed again).  Tyre info gladly received and I'll see what others people may recommend.

 

I'm already on it with brakes and other basic prep hence why I limited the questions but appreciate the steer.

 

Thanks,

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Can’t comment on other brands - but I’ve found the MPS4S (not the MPS4!) to be a great tyre on track, for a non track tyre. 
 

Depends what you’re aiming to achieve from your track days? 🤷‍♂️
 

all out best times - road legal track tyres like cup2s, Good Year Super Sport R or similar, or 100% track (non road legal) tyres on a set of separate rims you swap over to once at track (but extra logistics necessary here)

 

just fun - high quality premium brand tyres made with occasional trackdays in mind (eg GY supersports, MPS4S, yokos as per Mavricks suggestion). 

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To answer question 1: You will have no noise issues with the Miltek exhaust. I have one and it's very quiet and passes: Donington, Brands Hatch, Oulton, Snetterton, Combe, Thruxton (just) and Goodwood noise checks. 

Quick tip: Right before the noise test leave the engine on, drive it around and get the exhaust hot, this makes it quieter when they measure it.  

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Appreciate all the replies, as always.  Certainly good news about others who have experience with the Miltek exhaust, thank you @jcm987.

 

The car will be only used for track days, spirited local runs and taking to car related events, so road legal is a requirement, at this stage I do not plan to be taking additional wheelsets.  In terms of ambitions on the track there are none bar having fun, so it will be basic modifications only to start with, to ensure reliability (eg brakes and tyres), and as has been suggested we will seek some training to maximise our enjoyment.

 

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9 hours ago, Aaron said:

Tuition will be worth more than all the hardware you can buy if it's your first time on track.  As long as you have decent pads and tyres, you will likely reach your skill limitations before needing to change things on the car (speaking from experience).  Beginners tend to overuse the brakes and this is why you hear a lot about brake fade.

 

A good driver can maximise the performance and longevity of the car, not just the performance.  Of course, if you're running budget tyres (not that anyone with a Porsche should) then you're guaranteeing a poor experience.

 

 

Sage advice. I remember thinking I was Ayrton Senna reincarnated on my first track day but I kept cooking my brakes. One lesson later I was considerably faster and any sign of brake fade completely disappeared. 

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2 hours ago, peteslag said:

Sage advice. I remember thinking I was Ayrton Senna reincarnated on my first track day but I kept cooking my brakes. One lesson later I was considerably faster and any sign of brake fade completely disappeared. 

 

Any recommendations for good tuition and best first track?  Castle Coombe will be the closest but might not be the ideal track for first taste!

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Get an alignment also, make sure the car is set up straight. Did Thruxton in mine, it was ok but didn't feel great. An alignment later found it was slightly crabbing along.

 

Once they aligned it the difference was amazing.

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And maybe think about a ‘track day toolbox’ to take, I have a small bag with just a few essentials (small spanner set and sockets set, few screwdrivers, mallet, pliers, Allen keys, jubilee/hose clamps, length of rubber hose, duct tape - ie enough to bodge a ‘get you home’ fix. 
 

plus a torque wrench and wheel nut socket + tyre pressure gauge. 
 

Sometimes I might also take a small trolley Jack and axle stand. 
 

you’re well to pack a small camping chair in case you want to sit down between sessions. 
 

and any supplies for the day - food & drink etc. Some folks take a kettle and coffee / tea bags etc - depends which track you’re going to and what facilities they have. 🤷‍♂️

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hmm... Only thing I found with paying the £25 for an instructor to ride along is that they don't give the same advice!!

 

I've had 2 different instructors (MSV) with me for a session at Brands Indy & the GP... One said I should be taking Druids in 2nd & the other said 3rd & on the GP one said keep 4th at Hawthorns & other said 3rd 😌

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18 hours ago, Mavrik said:

Hmm... Only thing I found with paying the £25 for an instructor to ride along is that they don't give the same advice!

I think that's a good thing though. The different instructors will have different driving styles and you tend to learn something from each of them. You then have to decide what works for you (ie. Their instruction is guidance rather than rule) 

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Aye and they might be talking from their own experience of the track in a different car - whereas the cayman had rather long ratios in each gear, often meaning you can stay in a lower gear to be exiting a corner right in the best torque band. 
 

and also wet / dry circuit can make a difference to which gear - ie stay in higher gear to keep torque down to prevent wheel spin in the wet 🤷‍♂️

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